Cling or Fling Corridor, 5.7-5.11c

Overview/Approach (Above photo shows SW entrance, Beautiful Dreamer on the left, Green Mansions on the right)

Cling or Fling Corridor serves as a supplemental collection of routes to add to an outing to the popular Isles in the Sky formation and/or Rubicon.  The Miramontes guide has this small collection of routes split up between the corridor itself and a wall he names Screamer Rocks.  Screamer Rocks is nothing more than the short face to the left of the southwest entrance to the corridor.  All of the routes are short in length and stature.  But if you are attempting to join the 1000 route club at Jtree, you will probably find your way here at some point.

Beautiful Dreamer, 5.8*, is a decent splitter on the wall to the left of the preferred (southwest) entrance to the corridor.  Green Mansions, 5.8, and Czech Cows Say Boo, 5.9*, are worthy moderates as well.  There are more interesting corridors in Jtree, but this one offers short access from the trailhead and respite from the sun.

Park at the Split Rock trailhead and hike southwest as you would for Rubicon.  At the marked (2018) trail for Rubicon on your left, turn right and follow a wash up to slick rock that leads to a col between formations.  Climb through the col and the southwest entrance to the corridor will be on your right (north).  You can also leave the main trail almost immediately from the parking area and head for the northeast entrance to the corridor (hiking southwest).  Most of the routes walk off west or east vs utilizing fixed raps.

Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the Wall on Screamer Rocks

Beautiful Screamer- 35’-5.11c*/

Beautiful Dreamer- 40’-5.8*/ Out of the corridor to the west is an obvious leaning hand crack from bottom to top.  Steep, but easy at the grade, hands run you up this  crack to the top where it widens and requires a little more finesse to reach the top.  C4 #4 gear belay crack on top.  You can 5th class it down by walking off north and down climbing a few exposed blocks to the west.  Single (double if not competent at the grade) rack from C4#.75 to C4#4.  Bring two #4’s if you want to set up a top rope. Dow

Routes Listed as you encounter them in the Corridor from the Southwest Entrance

Czech Cows Say Boo- 50’-5.9*/ (left side) Stem the opposing wall to Green Mansions.  You cannot see the finger hand crack above, but after a singular bolt, you commit to the north wall and gain the fun, but easy for the grade, finger/hand crack to a large gear belay on top.  You can 5th class it down by walking off north and down climbing a few exposed blocks to the west.  Single rack to C4 #4.  #3 and #4 will make a gear belay on top.  Dow

Lost Boys- 50’-5.10d*/

Green Mansions- 40’-5.8/ (right side) Although it does not get a recommendation in the local guide, this is as good as any in the corridor for its respective grade. Stem up a few run out meters below the grade and place good gear in good rock for the rest of the route.  The guide references “marginal pro” but that is not the case.  The pro is bomber.  The stem up from the deck is easy.  A few hand and finger pieces. Relatively new slung rap as of 2018.  Dow

Cling or Fling- 40’-5.11a*/

Gollywag- 40’-5.8/

Say No to Jugs- 40’-5.11a**/

Lively Yourself Up, Homer- 45’-5.10d*/