Dont worry, I posted an article a few months back that got buried by one vote before it even made it to the front page, but then about 20 people came by and voted it up...soon enough i doubt my vote will even matter
Climbing is an adventure, and go ahead and break some laws while your at it, but i will be surprised if SP will keep this on the front page much longer
Go pound sand and stick to walking up your tiny mountains back East. Props to these guys for climbing the crumbly masterpiece. It's terrible when people try to restrict access to a natural feature.
The next time I'm out West climbing your bigger, better mountains, I'm sure you won't mind if I "borrow" your car for a while without your permission. Rental car agreements don't allow me to go on unimproved roads, and paying for a car is expensive. Besides, all those laws about auto "theft" are just just so incredibly jive and oppressive because I wanna climb dammit! I wanna climb!
BTW, Some of the SPers critical of the lawbreaking involved here are from out West.
You should listen when the rental company asks if you would like to purchase insurance for the extent of your stay. You may also find that, outside of Utah, access roads are not the least bit rough on a vehicle. I drive a 4-banger Corolla, for example.
Also, grand theft auto (a felony- > one year in prison) is a far cry from proprietary access restrictions (misdemeanor-fine).
Finally, you should move out West, rather than fight rental agreements as our perspectives governing lifestyle etiquette are much more relaxed than those living East of the Mississippi River (West Coast Mentality). Heart attacks are the #1 killer in middle-aged adults, dontchaknow?
Plus we have actual glaciers/elevation/blue ice/approaches/snow etc...
Well, out West we also have the following in some areas :
- raptor nesting closures
- condor nesting closures
- mandatory use of blue bags / wag bags
- mandatory wilderness permits for day use
- bolt restrictions
- various other climbing closures
I would also like to voice my self-righteous indignation, but since I've climbed with Frank and haven't exactly been an angel myself the words just aren't coming ..
I Disagree. these guys are doing as little as possible to destroy what beauty there is here. Rather, they are doing all they can to enjoy it. What I can't stand are all those out there who will gun down people like this who are doing their best not to be disrespectful, but, if anything, applaud those first ascenters like in Zion and Yosemite who had the gawl to make sure a piton was placed then ripped out, taking 1/4' chunks out of some areas, every 5 feet. Protect the planet and those beauties that we all enjoy. Shun those who disrespect it.
Besides, taking the Budha head for example; a long time budhist might respect this beauty by putting it on a pedestal, but isn't the artist who makes it a centerpiece in their new work without outright vandalism? Let people respect things in their own way that doesn't ruin this chance for others (ie: Yosemite).
We looked for 5 minutes or so, but the sun had gone down at this point. We probably just missed it. Why isn't it on the actual summit? I can say for sure it is not up there. There are plenty of rocks and even a little hole into which it could be placed. If it is down below on the bigger shelf, we didn't canvas the entire thing.
I can't imagine climbing the Honeycomb Gulley covered in a think layer of snow. Great story. Prepare to get some sh*t from some people for posting this, though.
It's not so much the speeding, as the public report of climbing on a culturally sensitive formation, where climbing is prohibited. The adventure aspect is awesome, and it's certainly front page material in all other respects.
Thanks for posting this.
I found it humorous that, as you wrote in the first section, you were worried about the policemen finding the route description, etc. in your car (and they didn't), but then you post a trip report online that clearly shows evidence that you were climbing the peak.
As for the partypoopers commenting here, know that your concern is the authorities (Navajo Nation) and that's all. You take your chances with them, and them alone. If THEY ask you to take down the trip report, only then do you have a decision to make. Oh, and I guess SP's owners could require you to.
No lampooning here from me! Great pics, Mike! I have to say that I'm so fucking psyched for you guys, and especially after hearing the first hand story from Frank, seeing his eyes bulge out and arms wave about in the air as he recounts terrifying runouts, snow, cold, and seated harness belays, I am jealous as hell and have caught the sometimes elusive adventure punk bug! I wanna hit the road and get rad ASAP! You guys should be proud.
One thing though...since you already are pissing people off by posting this (you surely knew it would) it seems funny that you forgot to mention all the bolts you drilled...
No bolts on the route, just shored up a couple of rap anchors in Longs Couloir. There is a string of two bolt anchors down the couloir spaced about 50 meters apart. There is one section where the anchors were spaced 80-90 meters apart, we added an anchor in between the two after about a half an hour of searching for one to no avail. It certainly doesn't change the character of the existing rap route as there are sections you can rap without having to downclimb that are less steep than the one we added the anchor to. One of the other anchors was only one bolt, so we added one there as well.
The front page is not a community seal of approval. Rather it is a place for something unusual and controversial, and this TR fits the bill perfectly.
Extreme access restriction should be anathema to the mountaineers. Flaunting these restrictions ... well, that's where it gets complicated ... and therefore interesting! Thanks, SP.
For most people visiting this website, the articles and photos displayed on the front page imply endorsement from the SP community at large. I just don't think it is right to post this at such an exposed spot. I personally don't want to be affiliated with "endorsing" such climb. And being "interesting" does not make it right.
H2SO4 - Dec 5, 2010 7:28 am - Hasn't voted
DisrespectfulI must say I'm rather disappointed to see the front page of summitpost glorifying the flaunting of tribal law.
CSUMarmot - Dec 5, 2010 1:03 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: DisrespectfulI must agree with you on that one
m_dquist - Dec 5, 2010 1:36 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: DisrespectfulYou guys are TOTALLY right. I'm sorry we were speeding on the highway.
CSUMarmot - Dec 5, 2010 1:58 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: DisrespectfulDont worry, I posted an article a few months back that got buried by one vote before it even made it to the front page, but then about 20 people came by and voted it up...soon enough i doubt my vote will even matter
Climbing is an adventure, and go ahead and break some laws while your at it, but i will be surprised if SP will keep this on the front page much longer
distressbark - Dec 5, 2010 3:44 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: DisrespectfulWholeheartedly agree. Find another rock to climb.
SKI - Dec 5, 2010 6:48 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: DisrespectfulGo pound sand and stick to walking up your tiny mountains back East. Props to these guys for climbing the crumbly masterpiece. It's terrible when people try to restrict access to a natural feature.
CheesySciFi - Dec 6, 2010 8:26 am - Hasn't voted
Re: DisrespectfulThe next time I'm out West climbing your bigger, better mountains, I'm sure you won't mind if I "borrow" your car for a while without your permission. Rental car agreements don't allow me to go on unimproved roads, and paying for a car is expensive. Besides, all those laws about auto "theft" are just just so incredibly jive and oppressive because I wanna climb dammit! I wanna climb!
BTW, Some of the SPers critical of the lawbreaking involved here are from out West.
SKI - Dec 6, 2010 9:38 am - Voted 10/10
Re: DisrespectfulYou should listen when the rental company asks if you would like to purchase insurance for the extent of your stay. You may also find that, outside of Utah, access roads are not the least bit rough on a vehicle. I drive a 4-banger Corolla, for example.
Also, grand theft auto (a felony- > one year in prison) is a far cry from proprietary access restrictions (misdemeanor-fine).
Finally, you should move out West, rather than fight rental agreements as our perspectives governing lifestyle etiquette are much more relaxed than those living East of the Mississippi River (West Coast Mentality). Heart attacks are the #1 killer in middle-aged adults, dontchaknow?
Plus we have actual glaciers/elevation/blue ice/approaches/snow etc...
Cheers!
rhyang - Dec 6, 2010 12:11 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: DisrespectfulWell, out West we also have the following in some areas :
- raptor nesting closures
- condor nesting closures
- mandatory use of blue bags / wag bags
- mandatory wilderness permits for day use
- bolt restrictions
- various other climbing closures
I would also like to voice my self-righteous indignation, but since I've climbed with Frank and haven't exactly been an angel myself the words just aren't coming ..
Barstool - Dec 23, 2010 5:30 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: DisrespectfulI Disagree. these guys are doing as little as possible to destroy what beauty there is here. Rather, they are doing all they can to enjoy it. What I can't stand are all those out there who will gun down people like this who are doing their best not to be disrespectful, but, if anything, applaud those first ascenters like in Zion and Yosemite who had the gawl to make sure a piton was placed then ripped out, taking 1/4' chunks out of some areas, every 5 feet. Protect the planet and those beauties that we all enjoy. Shun those who disrespect it.
Besides, taking the Budha head for example; a long time budhist might respect this beauty by putting it on a pedestal, but isn't the artist who makes it a centerpiece in their new work without outright vandalism? Let people respect things in their own way that doesn't ruin this chance for others (ie: Yosemite).
m_dquist - Dec 5, 2010 1:20 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: .....We looked for 5 minutes or so, but the sun had gone down at this point. We probably just missed it. Why isn't it on the actual summit? I can say for sure it is not up there. There are plenty of rocks and even a little hole into which it could be placed. If it is down below on the bigger shelf, we didn't canvas the entire thing.
rlshattuck - Dec 5, 2010 1:00 pm - Hasn't voted
perfect adventureevading the law, bad rock, cold . . . nice sunday morning reading!
McCannster - Dec 5, 2010 2:37 pm - Voted 10/10
Four pound cahonesI can't imagine climbing the Honeycomb Gulley covered in a think layer of snow. Great story. Prepare to get some sh*t from some people for posting this, though.
H2SO4 - Dec 5, 2010 3:36 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: DisrespectfulIt's not so much the speeding, as the public report of climbing on a culturally sensitive formation, where climbing is prohibited. The adventure aspect is awesome, and it's certainly front page material in all other respects.
Klenke - Dec 5, 2010 3:40 pm - Voted 10/10
Thanks and...Thanks for posting this.
I found it humorous that, as you wrote in the first section, you were worried about the policemen finding the route description, etc. in your car (and they didn't), but then you post a trip report online that clearly shows evidence that you were climbing the peak.
As for the partypoopers commenting here, know that your concern is the authorities (Navajo Nation) and that's all. You take your chances with them, and them alone. If THEY ask you to take down the trip report, only then do you have a decision to make. Oh, and I guess SP's owners could require you to.
Vicles - Dec 5, 2010 4:02 pm - Voted 10/10
summit or jail!No lampooning here from me! Great pics, Mike! I have to say that I'm so fucking psyched for you guys, and especially after hearing the first hand story from Frank, seeing his eyes bulge out and arms wave about in the air as he recounts terrifying runouts, snow, cold, and seated harness belays, I am jealous as hell and have caught the sometimes elusive adventure punk bug! I wanna hit the road and get rad ASAP! You guys should be proud.
One thing though...since you already are pissing people off by posting this (you surely knew it would) it seems funny that you forgot to mention all the bolts you drilled...
How's that for another log on the fire?
m_dquist - Dec 5, 2010 4:17 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: summit or jail!No bolts on the route, just shored up a couple of rap anchors in Longs Couloir. There is a string of two bolt anchors down the couloir spaced about 50 meters apart. There is one section where the anchors were spaced 80-90 meters apart, we added an anchor in between the two after about a half an hour of searching for one to no avail. It certainly doesn't change the character of the existing rap route as there are sections you can rap without having to downclimb that are less steep than the one we added the anchor to. One of the other anchors was only one bolt, so we added one there as well.
SoCalHiker - Dec 5, 2010 5:54 pm - Voted 1/10
I personally...... saw with disgust that a report about climbing that rock appears on the front page for all the reasons stated.
Dmitry Pruss - Dec 5, 2010 6:10 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: I personally...The front page is not a community seal of approval. Rather it is a place for something unusual and controversial, and this TR fits the bill perfectly.
Extreme access restriction should be anathema to the mountaineers. Flaunting these restrictions ... well, that's where it gets complicated ... and therefore interesting! Thanks, SP.
SoCalHiker - Dec 5, 2010 10:23 pm - Voted 1/10
Re: I personally...For most people visiting this website, the articles and photos displayed on the front page imply endorsement from the SP community at large. I just don't think it is right to post this at such an exposed spot. I personally don't want to be affiliated with "endorsing" such climb. And being "interesting" does not make it right.