Direct East Face

History

Mt. Whitney has attracted the attention of technical climbers for many decades. In the summer of 1931, Dr. Robert Underhill, after instructing his companions in the use of proper roped belays, made the first ascent of the Regular East Face Route with Jules Eichorn, Glen Dawson and Norman Clyde. Twenty eight years later, after numerous unsuccessful attempts by various parties, Denis Rutovitz and Andrzel Ehrenfeucht established, in three days, what was for years to remain the most difficult climb on the highest peak in the Lower 48: The Direct East Face of Mt. Whitney.

Whereas the Regular Route avoids the major precipice of the face via an easy rising traverse up the Washboard, the Direct East Face confronts the lower thousand feet head-on. During the first ascent, Rutovitz and Ehrenfeucht encountered many pitches of difficult aid and free climbing up the obvious crack system in the center of the face. About halfway up the lower s