Super Dome, 5.7-5.12c

Overview/Approach

Having climbed nearly 1000 routes at Joshua Tree National Park, I often get asked which is my favorite.  I typically qualify the answer the same whether discussing the Canadian Rockies, Zion, the Eastern Sierras and/or many of the other locations I have nearly climbed out within my ability, “too difficult to compare and choose”.  However, I might have just solved that issue for Joshua Tree. 

First of all, it is not that common to find many true multi-pitch routes in the park.  Most two pitch routes in the park can be combined into a single pitch by the competent leader, or like Dial 911, 5.10a**, on Saddle Rock for example, the movement is all the same and one can reasonably simul-climb to the top.  The Great Unknown, 5.10b**, on Super Dome requires three leads or at a minimum, two very long ones.  The climbing is incredibly diverse in that you climb a classic wide crack corner biting down to hands or fingers in places for the first 200’ and then climb steep and airy technical slab at the grade for the final 200’.  The summit of Super Dome places you on one of the highest points in the vast Wonderland expanse with full views of the military base to the north and Queen and Ryan mountains to the south.  The rock on this southern face (where all of Super Dome’s routes are essentially located) is harshly vertical and clean of features making it intimidating and beautiful at the same time.  Two of the better hard routes in all of Jtree are located on or near this face, Warpath, 5.12c***, and Hydra, 5.13c*** (located on Super Block to the right).   Add the lengthy approach typically void of humans which allows for a cirque return back through the Atom Smasher boulders, you can have a magical day in the Wonderland.  A smart destination to add to yield a full day of moderate climbing is to include Super Slab which is 500’ lower in elevation, but faces the same direction (full sun).  It has several interesting moderates to combine with the 5.10’s on Super Dome.

Park at the Boy Scout trailhead and head for Willow Hole.  That means splitting off of Boy Scout Trail at a marked intersection (2019) after approximately a mile, taking the right fork.  Continue for Ivory and Timbuktu Towers which are prominent features in the skyline to the north, staying on the well-established hiking trail.  Eventually you come to a significant wash on your right that is well traveled.  Take this wash and stay in it as it bends left heading for Willow Hole.  Willow Hole is marked by massive sand washes that lead to a full on desert swamp in the winter and spring including many willows, reeds and water.  Stay left when in question until you are directly below a broad south facing light colored slab, this is Super Slab.  Hike up the massive boulder field at the west end of Super Slab heading to Super Dome which is obvious and perched on the ridgeline high above.  The Great Unknown, 5.10b**, starts up either side of the attached tower at the west end of this massive south face.  The left side looks to be the better climb and is what I led with a single rack to #3, but I am curious about the right side as well, however it is much wider (chimney/OW) and will require a wider selection of gear.  Scramble off the summit to the east to a single 60m rope fixed rap (2019) that gets you down between Super Dome and Super Block.  I predict a single 70m rope gets you down The Last Unicorn to Warpath and would save you a little time getting back to your packs.

Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face the South Face

Cole Lewis- 335’-5.10b**/

Great Unknown- 335’-5.10b**/ This route is over a hundred feet taller than what the local guide suggests.  It is one of the better multi-pitch 5.10’s in the park.  Best to divide it into three pitches.  Located at the west end of the broad south face.  Climb the attached tower on its right or left to a fixed rap/belay atop it.  The left side offers outstanding trad climbing.  The first pitch, 30’, is short and done to alleviate rope drag. Up an obvious short varnished crack to a ledge, gear belay.  The second pitch, 115’, offers a varied corner crack climb.  It starts out C4#5 and goes to small gear in the middle and opens back up to hands at top.  I had a single to C4 #3 and ran it out from the bottom to a stance.  I advise bringing a #4 and #5 to protect it for most leaders’ expectations.  Arm bars and right foot jams get you up the wide section to a rest.  Small to medium gear goes well in the middle portion.  Towards the end of the corner it goes to #2 and bigger again.  Pull out the top via fingers onto the face on the right and mantle a flake up and right to a comfortable ledge atop the tower with a fixed belay/rap.  The third pitch, 190’, traverses left and up through five bolts on suspect slab.  There are two bolts straight above the top of the 2nd pitch that appear to be a two bolt variation off the belay.  The traverse out and left is sporty at the grade, but is reasonably bolted.  You end up trending up and left to a hand flake (100’) that takes medium gear.  Finish up the flake below the grade to the top of the formation.  Scramble down east to a single 60m fixed rap down the very east end over a bolted route.  Hike back down to the base of the west end.  Single to C4#5.  Dow

Warpath- 200’-5.12c***/

Last Unicorn- 180’-5.11aR***/

Bleed Proof- 45’-5.7/

Mohawk- 90’-5.12c**/

Chief Crazy Horse- 90’-5.12aR**/