Aaron Johnson - Sep 25, 2003 4:13 pm - Voted 10/10
I LIKE THIS PICTUREBob-I lik the light and detail, and it looks like a fun climb. The nasty traverse is typical for Colorado mountains, as you know. Having climbed most of my life in the San Juans, it doesn't look too bad to me. Can you elaborate on why the traverse is crappy? Looks like the climb from there to the back side might be fun.
Bob Bolton - Oct 5, 2003 8:02 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: I LIKE THIS PICTUREThanks Aaron! The problem was the snow patch that you can see above the traverse that made the already unstable mountain rather hazardous. The snowmelt came down to the traverse level and there was a muddy section that was even more unstable than the rest of the traverse. See my summit log entry for a brief account of our experience with that mud. I've only done 14 CO 14ers, and haven't encountered anything like this yet in Colorado, although I'm sure I'll get my chance someday!
Don Nelsen - Aug 1, 2004 11:41 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: I LIKE THIS PICTUREHi Aaron,
I just now encountered your post re: "why the traverse is crappy" and had to comment. Perhaps you already have an answer but here is a comment, nevertheless: I posted a pic of this thing today so you can get a look at it. I was told that there was a fixed rope but I could not locate it. As you can see from the pic, this is a very steep slope and the exposure is maybe 2,000 feet. Far more, (by about 1,980 feet!) than I was willing to risk in running shoes! It takes balls to get across one of these things, but with the proper equipment it's no problem. Without it, it's suicide. That's all I know!
Climb well!
Best regards,
dn
dkantola - Aug 2, 2004 3:13 am - Hasn't voted
Re: I LIKE THIS PICTURESome large parties fix ropes across the traverse while they're up there. That may have been what you heard. I think people typically set a running belay with pickets or ice screws when the traverse is snow covered.
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