I saw your PM re: my comments on your pics. Haven't looked at the Fifth Season map. I did the upper part of the route in 2004, 2005, and 2006. I have not been on your variation (Shark's Tooth / Bolam Gully).
As with many routes on Shasta, there are a variety of ways to go, and one way isn't the "right" way. For example, on Casaval, some people traverse to the West Face, and others do the Catwalk.
I'm sure someone will chime in about their experiences on the route as well, but in the end -- who cares. You got up there, enjoyed yourselves, and got back down safe. That's all that really matters, isn't it ?
It wasn't nearly as bad as you might think. There was a definite unhappy bump on the outside of my right arch, but between plastic boots and socks there's so much padding that I didn't develop any pressure points. Just goes to show how much slop pastics have.
My crampons have a left/right curve, and while it took a little monkeying to get a right crampon on a left boot, it fortunately stayed well attached once on.
Funny- my climbing partner and I did this route the day before you arrived. On the ascent, we opted to climb straight-up the ice, climber's right of the crevasse field, up into the rocks/ snow, then re-connected with the snow ramp above the bergshrund about mid-way up. We set running belays with ice screws, for about 3 or 4 pitches. On the descent though, we decided to navigate the crevasses rather than deal with the ice.
Did you bring the rope and screws for crevasses or just to protect dicey slopes? From what I've read it seems most people don't bring glacier gear (we didn't), but I'm confused how that relates to the obvious presence of crevasses on the route.
... just to protect us on the ice. I read about the ice on Shasta Avalanche's website, and saw a picture of the face they posted in early June. Our plan from the start was to climb the ice as much as we could, despite it being mostly low-angle. We brought glacier gear since we knew we would likely crossing through the more crevassed area late in the afternoon; more just being cautious. Since this was only my second time in the area- I was unsure of how crevassed the field actually is; most of my climbing is in Washington and BC. It was difficult getting beta on this climb for me; I got a map ahead of time but really was relying on route information obtained in Shasta City the day before. Seems that a majority of published information is on the south side of the mountain. We only roped up through the ice and bergshrund sections.
rhyang - Jun 19, 2007 10:55 am - Voted 10/10
Nice work !Get 'er done - and you did.
I saw your PM re: my comments on your pics. Haven't looked at the Fifth Season map. I did the upper part of the route in 2004, 2005, and 2006. I have not been on your variation (Shark's Tooth / Bolam Gully).
As with many routes on Shasta, there are a variety of ways to go, and one way isn't the "right" way. For example, on Casaval, some people traverse to the West Face, and others do the Catwalk.
I'm sure someone will chime in about their experiences on the route as well, but in the end -- who cares. You got up there, enjoyed yourselves, and got back down safe. That's all that really matters, isn't it ?
Again, way cool !
HeyItsBen - Jun 25, 2007 10:42 pm - Voted 10/10
2 left boots!That is hilarious. How uncomfortable was that?
mattyj - Jun 26, 2007 1:18 am - Hasn't voted
Re: 2 left boots!It wasn't nearly as bad as you might think. There was a definite unhappy bump on the outside of my right arch, but between plastic boots and socks there's so much padding that I didn't develop any pressure points. Just goes to show how much slop pastics have.
My crampons have a left/right curve, and while it took a little monkeying to get a right crampon on a left boot, it fortunately stayed well attached once on.
ed_wos - Jun 26, 2007 12:22 am - Hasn't voted
CongradsFunny- my climbing partner and I did this route the day before you arrived. On the ascent, we opted to climb straight-up the ice, climber's right of the crevasse field, up into the rocks/ snow, then re-connected with the snow ramp above the bergshrund about mid-way up. We set running belays with ice screws, for about 3 or 4 pitches. On the descent though, we decided to navigate the crevasses rather than deal with the ice.
Good job, boots and all.
mattyj - Jun 26, 2007 1:25 am - Hasn't voted
Glacier v. SnowfieldDid you bring the rope and screws for crevasses or just to protect dicey slopes? From what I've read it seems most people don't bring glacier gear (we didn't), but I'm confused how that relates to the obvious presence of crevasses on the route.
rhyang - Jun 26, 2007 1:42 am - Voted 10/10
Re: Glacier v. SnowfieldThe crevasses on this route are actually a bergschrund which can be easily skirted on climber's right.
ed_wos - Jun 26, 2007 10:13 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Glacier v. Snowfield... just to protect us on the ice. I read about the ice on Shasta Avalanche's website, and saw a picture of the face they posted in early June. Our plan from the start was to climb the ice as much as we could, despite it being mostly low-angle. We brought glacier gear since we knew we would likely crossing through the more crevassed area late in the afternoon; more just being cautious. Since this was only my second time in the area- I was unsure of how crevassed the field actually is; most of my climbing is in Washington and BC. It was difficult getting beta on this climb for me; I got a map ahead of time but really was relying on route information obtained in Shasta City the day before. Seems that a majority of published information is on the south side of the mountain. We only roped up through the ice and bergshrund sections.