Adirondack Ice Climbing Season 2019-2020

Intro

Special thanks to all my partners in climb this year: Don Mellor, Bill Schneider, Robert Smith, Alex Atkin, Josh Ferguson, Loren Swears, Bethany Garretson, Robbi Mecus, Sabrina Hague, Laura Duncan, Brent Elliott, Katie Vannicola, Hunter Corliss, Dan Kent, Emily Schwartz, Harold Sutton, Nolan Huther, Alan Wechsler. ...Forgive me if I missed someone!

This post serves as a climbing diary for myself as much as anything else. It also is meant to share the beauty inherent to the Adirondacks of New York. Enjoy!

The primary photo from the ice curtain of the new Passion and Warfare (WI5/M5) and represents a climb that was the crux of the season; the result of great partners, training, and tenacity. This was especially exciting (and perhaps a little terrifying), but the entire season was a blessing of learning and adventure. Once again I have to thank Christ for the beauty of nature and my ability to explore it.

Another season that lasted from November into early spring…fantastic! I decided last year that while I love rock climbing, I love ice just a little bit more. There’s a unique allure to its beauty, complexity, and uncertainty. Using sharp objects as the primary tools may add some appeal as well! By the time November arrived, I was itchy to begin the season though I had a few concerns regarding a shoulder injury that I’d been nursing for the previous year. The movements of ice climbing, however, are generally easier on the joint than the routes I typically climb on rock. The season didn’t pass without incident, but the problem only set me back a couple weeks.

From my perspective, the accomplishments of one season do not need so surpass those of the previous year. I hoped to maintain my level of climbing and get on a few routes that I didn’t have time to climb during 2018-2019—namely routes on Poke-O-Moonshine and, of course, unfinished business in Panther Gorge.

Lions on the Beach, Rule of the Bone & Hot Shot

Date: 2019 November 16

Partner: Bill Schneider

Bill and I kicked the season off with some easy fun ice. Lions seemed like a good first lead on a cold day. Early season ice is so nice…fresh and not all chopped up. Bill took Rule of the Bone which was in thin condition—something that makes it a little more fun. We spent the day top roping harder variations until I ended up taking a lap on Hot Shot with Robbi Mecus at the end of the day.

I didn’t feel like I’d even stepped off the ice from the previous season. Starting off the year on a confident note was just what I needed.

Gothics North Face Direct

Partner(s): Robert Smith, Alex Atkin, Josh Ferguson

Date: 2019 November 23

Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/AKxjme1Un56GUkbS9

Video: https://youtu.be/rc8rjFaamCY

Gothics’ North Face is an area that I try to visit annually. I feel free and unburdened. A thin snowpack made the approach bushwhack blessedly easy. Once below the face, I saw that it was subjectively “in.” It was far from covered in firm neve as it is in late winter, but I’ve come to prefer it on the scratchy side. It makes it a little more technical. It felt good to stretch my wings in the backcountry. Robert Smith and I soloed the ice bleeding from main tree island in the center...nice yellow ice ranging from 1/2" to about 4" thick. Alex and Josh swung leads a little to our left. There was a little bit of neve set up which made connecting the ice smears feel more secure. A windy, but sunny summit with a nice glaze over 2' of snow was our reward.

Robert Smith on solo

Lions on the Beach (again)

Date: 2019 November 30

This was the shortest day of the year. I’d planned a full day with Loren Swears, but I led the line then hurt my shoulder while top roping on the second lap. I tried a harder variation that partially inverted me and…pop!

Knob Lock Mtn.: Unexpected Pleasure (WI4)

Date: 2019 December 15

Partners: Loren Swears & Bethany Garretson

Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/5PVx7kvRijcSzRVC6

Unexpected Pleasure (WI4) on Knob Lock might have been called Wet Pleasure this time. It was a combination of good ice, slightly bonded marbles, stone with veneered rock on the walls...and a cascade spraying everything. Fun times! The soaking began after passing under an obvious chockstone that’s lodged in the chimney. Scratching up the vertical walls on thin ice and wet rock was spicy fun. By the time I reached the top I was wet to the skin (hurray for several pairs of gloves and a warm jacket). I remember yelling down, “Promise we’ll be friends after this?”

Loren & Bethany were in similar shape by the top so we called it a day around 1:30 PM. The bottom gully was blown out, but that changed with the onset of colder weather during the weeks after. Words of wisdom: zip all your pants pockets before climbing under a cascade.

Poke-O-Moonshine: Discord (WI4+) & the Waterfall

Date: 2019 December 22

Partner: Don Mellor

Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/dAndRthd7vZsoyEY9

It had been awhile since we'd been out to climb with each other, but Don's schedule finally aligned with mine. What to do? We looked at Magic Line on Knob Lock Mtn. from the car and continued to Poko. We were the first to arrive and set up below Discord (WI4+). We broke it into 3 pitches and swapped leads. It was a little scratchy at the bottom; I bailed on one option after a thoughtful attempt and lost my mojo, Don took a different one and made it go.

Pitch two allowed me to redeem myself. Good ice, an interesting traverse to a corner and up to the belay was what I needed to put a smile on my face. The top was a true gem! Don led as temps warmed from around 4F when I left the house to somewhere in the 20's with a light breeze. It’s always fun watching a master at work; he made it look effortless. We finally ended up on the Waterfall which he led. It was another fine day with great company.

Bear Cubby: Son of Bobo (M5+)

Date: 2019 December 24

Partner: Robbi Mecus

Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/qurDP797kUYmbKzY7

This little crag was not on my radar, but it was on Robbi’s! I just followed and enjoyed myself. This was our second year of climbing on my wedding anniversary—something my wife, Deb, now insists upon as a tradition. There’s an endless list of jokes that can go along with this of course…

The alcove is located over the ridge from the outlet of Lower Cascade Lake. With Robbi as the navigational brains of the day, I just followed and chatted while we walked through the open hardwoods. We arrived at the cliff where I promptly fell backward and did a complete backward roll. Where’s the video when you need it?

A chossy crack with a few smears of ice led up to an overhang with some yellow icicles and a small flow off to the left…the only “real” ice on the route. Mixed climbing at this level was still a bit new to me (verses soloing mixed terrain on the slides over the years). I was more than happy to follow on this as well. She climbed well and the crack protected well. A few comments regarding fear and she was committed to an airy traverse. Something tore free and I caught her once, but it was a nearly perfect lead.

My follow was similar. A large crack under the roof aided the traverse. I inserted the tool to mid-handle and used a side-pull to steady myself during the traverse. It tore free, but I caught myself with the other tool (and Robbi, of course, had me). With crampon front points on a thin edge, I mounted the ice flow and nearly fell again, this time from letting my guard down too soon. Robbi yelled, “Don’t fall on the easy part!”

With that under our belts, we called it a day. I went home to spend the rest of my anniversary with my wife.

Chapel Pond: Parallel Gully & Power Play

Date: 2019 December 26

Partners: Sabrina Hague and Robbi Mecus

Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/tXt4UfwYJgu4kePC6

I finally got out with Sabrina Hague on ice…and of course Robbi again. This was just a relaxing day with friends on easy ice. Parallel Gully is a relaxed WI3 along the right facing corner of Tillman’s Arête. A few comments from Robbi like, “You’re back on belay,” as I placed gear told me that I was running it out a bit.

Robbi and I continued to climb after Sabrina left; pitch one of Power Play via the ramp was a fun choice. I needed a relaxing day before a bigger trip into Panther Gorge two days later.

High Altitude Picks

Adirondack Life magazine (Jan/Feb 2020) published a mini guide of the best Panther Gorge ice climbing routes.

Panther Gorge: First Ascent of Waking Cerberus (WI5/M4)

Date: 2019 December 28

Partners: Brent Elliott and Laura Duncan

Dreams come true! I’d been after this elusive line on the Panther Den at the head of the Gorge for years. This was a special day with great friends. Read the full trip report with photos here: https://www.summitpost.org/waking-cerberus-wi5-m4-in-panther-gorge/1048218

 

 

Mountainfest 2020 Weekend with Panther Gorge Slideshow

Dates: 2020 January 18 and 19

Working the Mountaineer’s Mountainfest began in 2019 when I assisted Don Mellor with his Steep Ice for the Chicken Hearted clinic at the Quarry in Cascade Pass—if you haven’t taken this clinic, you need to. This year found me setting up top ropes on Positive Reinforcement in Chapel Pond Canyon. Near zero temps and an 80 lb. pack made Saturday morning interesting…4 ropes and 4 static lines along with the accompanying metal to set everything up. Yeah, I could have run two trips to lug it in, but I didn’t.

My original plans were to head out on the ice with my cousin Ed Tuttle and a friend after setting up, but the best laid plans sometimes go awry. We ended up meeting for dinner instead. Sunday was much the same with the highlight of each day being the visit with Ed. A last minute request to put on a Panther Gorge slideshow after Alden Pellett’s presentation at the Keene Arts Center topped the weekend off. There were 200+ people in attendance.

Poke-O-Moonshine: Positive Thinking (WI5-)

Date: 2020 February 2

Partners: Katie Vannicola

Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/dRSMUWRBDRBWYudn7

Video: https://www.facebook.com/kevin.mudrat.mackenzie/videos/10216842176703824/

Kevin on P1 of PT

It seemed like it was time to jump on this classic 600’ route that sits like a frozen jewel on Poko. Alan Wechsler placed it in my mind several years ago while we were out. He described it as “pumpy.” At the time, I simply thought it looked terrifying. After Don whet my appetite with Discord, this seemed like the next natural step.

My strategy was to pick a day that wasn’t sunny and arrive early to avoid falling into a queue since it’s a popular route. Katie was up for an adventure as usual. We arrived at the base at 7 a.m., the first car in the lot. The route was unusually fat which I didn’t mind in the least. I’ll head back next year to try it on the thinner side.

The first pitch up the slab was a stimulating climb up a beautiful feature. Having this cliff in my “backyard” is a blessing. The movements felt balanced and intuitive as I reached the top of pitch one and set up an anchor in the ice covering the giant dike that crosses the cliff. Pitch two was easier than I’d anticipated and very aesthetic. Stepped ice up to a short traverse where I jumped on the most vertical section was spicy but comfortable. Rather than taking pitch two in one segment (since I had 70M ropes), I set up an anchor below a narrow chimney and belayed so I could photograph Katie…dramatic!

I knew the final pitch was a bit easier, so I looked over when she arrived and asked, “Do you want it?” I knew she would—such is her personality. With her on lead, I was able to enjoy the light flurries and scenery while belaying.

I only wanted a short day, so we walked off via the gully near the Waterfall and called it a day. I felt entirely fulfilled. Positive Thinking lives up to its hype as an Adirondack classic.

Katie on P2.

Roaring Brook Solo (WI3+)

Date: 2020 February 9

Friend Jonathan Zaharek contacted me and asked if I’d be willing to talk on camera to a couple photojournalists. They wanted some local perspective on the Adirondacks and climbing. It sounded interesting, so we spent a couple hours at the High Peaks Guide House in Lake Placid. Being interviewed with multiple cameras pointed at me isn’t one of my strengths, so this was a bit of a learning experience.

They also wanted photos and video to go with the interview for context. Rather than tangling with the crowds in Chapel Pond or Pitchoff, I suggested we drive to Roaring Brook Falls. It’s a comfortable solo for me and the logistics are easy to manage from a photographic perspective. We arrived just as another party was finishing the first pitch…perfect timing. The route was pegged out—chipped up from all the climbers—so it was an easy objective. My friend John Sasso arrived as I was donning my crampons. He snapped a few pics as well…thanks for the photo John.

 

South Colton Cliff’s Wicked World (WI4)

Date: 2020 February 12

Partners: Hunter Corliss, Dan Kent, Hunter’s friend…?

What to do on a Wednesday night with a few bits of sharp metal, a headlamp, and four willing souls? Ice climb, of course. Hunter Corliss, Dan Kent, and a friend of Hunter’s made this evening fun. We arrived in South Colton, dug out Hunter’s truck after it got stuck, and walked to the cliff. I’d been wanting to climb at night since going up Chouinard’s Gully last year under a full moon.

Wicked World is far from an extreme route, but it is vertical at the top and offered us great to get some exercise. I took the first lead along a line that veered to the right of the central column. A few laps on top rope, and Hunter led a line up the steepest portion. With a couple hours of collective climbing, we arrived back at St. Lawrence University around 10:30 p.m. Not a bad way to spend an evening.

Poke-O-Moonshine: Neurosis (WI4-) & Hidden Pique (WI4+)

Date: 2020 February 16

Partners: Katie Vannicola and Loren Swears

Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/gStdEwHYNG5nY5KJ6

Loren at the top of Hidden Pique (photo by Katie Vannicola)

As long as I was picking away at Poko classics, I hoped to add Neurosis into the mix. Just past Positive Thinking in location, it offers a similar if not easier start up an often delaminating smear. Loren put me on belay, I stepped on the ice and found that it sounded like a drum. It was solid and the day promised to be overcast, so I ran it out to the first tree about 35 feet up. The rest of the ascent up the first pitch was fine though parts of the ice were still detached; I placed stubbies where there was good ice and clipped a tricam along the way.

It didn’t take long before Loren and Katie were by my side and we were ready for pitch two. Again, I asked Katie if she wanted the lead…yup. Loren and I chatted it up as she climbed the next 200’ and belayed us. The upper cliff band was really the gem of the entire day. The traditional line follows up a steep run of ice directly above the lower pitches. An alternative called Hidden Pique sounded a bit more cerebral; I’ll always choose that type of climbing over something straightforward. It forces one to use different techniques and body positions.

A vertical section led into a cozy gully with a narrow ice flow. The top was spicy—mixed with a couple short overhanging sections. I felt in my element. I clipped a couple cams that were in a nearby crack—and later returned them to the climber that bailed off them the day before. A bit of nearby blood spoke of the accident.

Katie and Loren followed. The mixed climbing was new to Katie, so it was a good learning experience (and fun to watch). Feeling secure using metal crampons on rock takes a bit of getting used to.

Several rappels later found us back at the base. I rapped first on the last leg. I was waiting for them when I heard a low buzzing sound followed by a whump! A climber high on Neurosis cut a piece of ice loose and it landed like a comet about 20’ away. I stepped to a safer location while contemplating the results of getting hit with a piece of ice the size of a gallon jug…not good.

I eyeballed the rock climbing lines on the cliff as we walked back to the car. So much to climb, so little time.

Panther Gorge: FA of Passion and Warfare (WI5/M5)

Date: 2020 February 22

Duration/Length/Vertical Gain: 18.5 hours, approx.16.5 mi., approx. 4500’

Partners: Katie Vannicola, Emily Schwartz, Harold Sutton

I often get in a slight “mental funk” a few days before a climbing trip into Panther Gorge. As much as I love the outings and head into the remote chasm to relax, the preceding days are often filled with restless nights and evenings spent studying photos or contemplating the logistics of the day. The more uncertain the target, the louder the background buzz of thoughts. The flurry of thoughts was almost deafening before this trip since I knew the target was difficult and since I’d made multiple attempts over the years…

Read the trip report: https://www.summitpost.org/passion-and-warfare-wi5-m5/1049621

Chouinard's Gully Solos (WI3)

Date: 2020 March 1 and March 8

I needed a couple quick outings, just something to relax and get a half-hour’s exercise. I’ve done less soloing lately, so this trip and the following weekend helped to stabilize my confidence while climbing without a rope. There’s value in this to me, but that is an opinion that’s strictly relevant to myself.

March 1:  Temperatures were about 15 F with a light breeze as the early-morning sun filtered through low hanging clouds. I took a quick break halfway up at a belay tree to get my hands back. Both had become numb. I hadn’t bothered to light up hand warmers—lesson learned (again). The route as a whole was both pegged out from climbers and the center was a snow gully which made it an easy climb.

March 8: Rains during the week had washed the snow away and turned this into a “real” climb again. I couldn’t just hook holes in the ice. The bottom and top were a bit drippy, but it was both warm and enjoyable. Even with a quick break midway up and a coffee stop, I was home two hours after leaving the house.  

 

Avalanche Pass: Avalanche Mtn. Gully (WI4-)

Date: 2020 March 14

Partners: Nolan Huther, Alan Wechsler, Colin Aldrich

Video: https://youtu.be/E9FqFeWe2Ng

Photos, text…the full enchilada: https://pureadirondacks.com/blogs/news/ice-climbing-the-avalanche-mountain-gully

Green Gully (WI3+) and Cascade Slide

Gothics North Face (New Finger Slide)

 

 

Images

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