I climbed Arete des Cosmiques on 20th of August 2002. Please note down the following :
1.After the gendarm (3.731m) you continue for a little while the ridge and then you abseil down twice. There are two abseil rings, slings etc.Each abseil is about 10 - 15 m.
2.The key passage was well equipped. There were rope ladders & sling. After the key passage you reach a bolt (there is another one above but is unscrewed), then continue 3 -4 meters right, approximately 10 meters up (the first 3/4 is an easy narrow passage)and then left.
Probemeister - Sep 18, 2002 8:47 am - Hasn't voted
Route Comment
The passage of 4+ has a large ring bolt about 2m up it to aid the hardest move, this means the route can be done at 3+ (UIAA)
The cosmic arête is mostly graded (by most of the guide books), as PD/PD+ .
The grade IV rock section is very short one just a couple of moves.
The route shouldn’t be underestimated but then its not difficult, relatively safe, and nice and short route for acclimatization and introduction to the area.
Here's a terrific seven minutes of explanation and view of climbing the Cosmique in the winter. Best thing of doing it in winter is you have the entire spectacular climb to yourself!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=48yBWBRkzqM
If you like this video leave a thumbs up, and subscribe for a new adventure in your in box each week!
I climbed Arete des Cosmiques on August 10, 2020 with a climbing partner. We spent the night at the Cosmiques Hut to make sure we could start early enough since we felt that route finding was going to be biggest challenge. A quick note on the abseil(s):
We brought a 40m rope, which was long enough to do the abseils on the North Face (Equipped with rings, slings, etc...) rather than the South Face (suggested by the guidebook but no longer recommended).
If you want to see more about how it went, here is the full video of our climb:
athpal - Aug 29, 2002 5:39 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentI climbed Arete des Cosmiques on 20th of August 2002. Please note down the following :
1.After the gendarm (3.731m) you continue for a little while the ridge and then you abseil down twice. There are two abseil rings, slings etc.Each abseil is about 10 - 15 m.
2.The key passage was well equipped. There were rope ladders & sling. After the key passage you reach a bolt (there is another one above but is unscrewed), then continue 3 -4 meters right, approximately 10 meters up (the first 3/4 is an easy narrow passage)and then left.
Probemeister - Sep 18, 2002 8:47 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentThe passage of 4+ has a large ring bolt about 2m up it to aid the hardest move, this means the route can be done at 3+ (UIAA)
duxe1975 - Aug 26, 2004 7:51 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentThe cosmic arête is mostly graded (by most of the guide books), as PD/PD+ .
The grade IV rock section is very short one just a couple of moves.
The route shouldn’t be underestimated but then its not difficult, relatively safe, and nice and short route for acclimatization and introduction to the area.
Sweendaweg - Oct 30, 2015 1:41 pm - Hasn't voted
Video of Cosmique & explanationHere's a terrific seven minutes of explanation and view of climbing the Cosmique in the winter. Best thing of doing it in winter is you have the entire spectacular climb to yourself!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=48yBWBRkzqM
If you like this video leave a thumbs up, and subscribe for a new adventure in your in box each week!
andresvou - Sep 26, 2020 1:04 am - Hasn't voted
Route Comment & VideoI climbed Arete des Cosmiques on August 10, 2020 with a climbing partner. We spent the night at the Cosmiques Hut to make sure we could start early enough since we felt that route finding was going to be biggest challenge. A quick note on the abseil(s):
We brought a 40m rope, which was long enough to do the abseils on the North Face (Equipped with rings, slings, etc...) rather than the South Face (suggested by the guidebook but no longer recommended).
If you want to see more about how it went, here is the full video of our climb:
https://youtu.be/ZZYTyLEQRxM