rvancleave - Jul 21, 2020 9:25 am Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2020
South Slopes
Base camped at the South end of Black Canyon Lake. Hiked up the drainage to the saddle between Avalanche Peak and Beartooth Mountain, from there it's a couple hundred feet climb to the plateau. From there it's a good walk across the plateau to the summit. The view of the Bear's Tooth from above is awesome. Round trip from south end of Black Canyon Lake to summit and back was 6 hours. Summit day was fairly easy, the hardest part was getting to base camp at the south end of BCL. The boulders along the shoreline are tough to traverse carrying a 50 pound pack and 60 pound dog.
freedeep - Mar 21, 2020 9:50 am Date Climbed: Aug 20, 1986
Mostly straight forward scramble
Approached from the south to Silver Tarn Lake, then east to saddle, then north across summit of Avalanche Peak (sister peak SW of Btooth Mtn). Dropped down east side of AvPeak, then across steep loose scree to saddle between AvPeak and Beartooth Mtn. Easy from there to B.tooth summit. Nice view looking down on the Bear's Tooth. Route out went straight up NE ridgeline of AvPeak, do-able but not the most stable rock. To do it again I would consider approaching from Sky Pilot Lake to saddle between AvPeak and Btooth Mtn.
VincePoore - Oct 14, 2018 12:56 pm Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2016
Success with a price
Camped at South end of Black Canyon lake and climbed couloir to Avalanche first. From there it was straight forward through the saddle to the summit. On the way out I slipped on an unstable boulder near the north end of BC lake. I thought it was a bad ankle sprain and in trying to favor it it, I took a bad step 20 minutes later and sprained my other ankle. I just mentally divided the 4 miles back to the car into 10 minute increments. X-rays revealed a hairline distal fibula fracture from the first slip. Season over.
Matt Lemke - Jan 12, 2016 7:28 pm Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2012
12er #5/26
Climbed the SW ridge via Black Canyon Lake. Long but gorgeous climb.
granitepeaker - Sep 5, 2006 4:50 am Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2006
Jason Maehl
This mountain has been the most difficult 12er I've done in Montana. I had perfect weather and summited at 9:30am. The boulder hopping and rock climbing made this summit quite the challenge. On the summit there is a summit log and I was the only one to sign it this year. Actually no one had signed the log register in a few years. I would recommend climbing the mountain earlier in the summer when there is snow covering the glacier moraine. I will submit some routes for this mountain in the near future.
rvancleave - Jul 21, 2020 9:25 am Date Climbed: Jul 19, 2020
South SlopesBase camped at the South end of Black Canyon Lake. Hiked up the drainage to the saddle between Avalanche Peak and Beartooth Mountain, from there it's a couple hundred feet climb to the plateau. From there it's a good walk across the plateau to the summit. The view of the Bear's Tooth from above is awesome. Round trip from south end of Black Canyon Lake to summit and back was 6 hours. Summit day was fairly easy, the hardest part was getting to base camp at the south end of BCL. The boulders along the shoreline are tough to traverse carrying a 50 pound pack and 60 pound dog.
freedeep - Mar 21, 2020 9:50 am Date Climbed: Aug 20, 1986
Mostly straight forward scrambleApproached from the south to Silver Tarn Lake, then east to saddle, then north across summit of Avalanche Peak (sister peak SW of Btooth Mtn). Dropped down east side of AvPeak, then across steep loose scree to saddle between AvPeak and Beartooth Mtn. Easy from there to B.tooth summit. Nice view looking down on the Bear's Tooth. Route out went straight up NE ridgeline of AvPeak, do-able but not the most stable rock. To do it again I would consider approaching from Sky Pilot Lake to saddle between AvPeak and Btooth Mtn.
VincePoore - Oct 14, 2018 12:56 pm Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2016
Success with a priceCamped at South end of Black Canyon lake and climbed couloir to Avalanche first. From there it was straight forward through the saddle to the summit. On the way out I slipped on an unstable boulder near the north end of BC lake. I thought it was a bad ankle sprain and in trying to favor it it, I took a bad step 20 minutes later and sprained my other ankle. I just mentally divided the 4 miles back to the car into 10 minute increments. X-rays revealed a hairline distal fibula fracture from the first slip. Season over.
Matt Lemke - Jan 12, 2016 7:28 pm Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2012
12er #5/26Climbed the SW ridge via Black Canyon Lake. Long but gorgeous climb.
granitepeaker - Sep 5, 2006 4:50 am Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2006
Jason MaehlThis mountain has been the most difficult 12er I've done in Montana. I had perfect weather and summited at 9:30am. The boulder hopping and rock climbing made this summit quite the challenge. On the summit there is a summit log and I was the only one to sign it this year. Actually no one had signed the log register in a few years. I would recommend climbing the mountain earlier in the summer when there is snow covering the glacier moraine. I will submit some routes for this mountain in the near future.