Gobi 65 on Mt McGillivray, 5.10a/5.8(A0), 6 Pitches

Overview

Gobi65 265m 5.10a or 5.8 A0

Gobi65 Route

This is a six pitches climbing route that ascends Gobi Buttress on the NNE side of Mount McGillivray. This is a new (2015) route and still has significant amount of loose rock. It should

Climbing is mostly 5.6/5.7 with two short cruxes rated at 5.8 and 5.10a. First ascend and bolting (thank you guys): Ian Greant, Brandon Pullan, Maarten van Haeren in May 2015. 

The route is named in honour of first ascenders' friend, and their battle with Lyme Disease.

Getting There

Gobi Buttress is the right side buttress of Mt McGillivray.

Start at the parking lot at Heart Creek Trail-head, across from Lac Des Arcs.

Follow Bow Corridor Trail towards west for about 100m until you come across washout of main McGillvary drainage. Follow climbers left side of the washout
up the drainage for about 5 minutes until you come across flagged and cairned trail on left.

Continue up steep, but very well established trail along left side of main drainage until you reach a short cliff band. After gaining the top of the cliff band, follow the trail passing a lookout point over the drainage canyon.

After the lookout, the trail descends down to the drainage, and then crosses it. After crossing the drainage, follow faint but well flagged game trail along NNE ridge of Gobi Buttress.
It will take about 1.5hours time and 500m of elevation gain to get to the base of the climb.

Route Description

Gobi 65 Climbing Diagram

Pitch 1, 5.3, 55m (gear)

Start the climb at the highest tree, about 5m left of the Gobi Buttress North East crest.

Start at the highest tree below the buttress

There are three vague corners that can be followed up to gain the first belay station. It is recommended to take the furthest right corner to protect the belayer from falling rocks.

There is a single bolt belay station on a big bolder on the crest. The bolder also has a perfect crack to reinforce the belay with a small cam.

Pitch 2, 5.5, 50m, (gear)

First, follow the ridge and then climb a short wall using cracks and corners around a prominent slab. Climb trending left to a two bolt station behind a tree. The station and the tree are located at base of a steeper wall with left facing corner/crack located to the right of the belay station.

Pitch 3, 5.7, 45m, (3 bolts)

Follow the shallow left facing corner/crack to a hand traverse. Step right into a corner and then follow solid rock futures to a bolt. Follow the corner on good holds until it’s possible to traverse back left through a break in the rock. Step onto a slab with parallel grooves. Follow grooves, passing 2 bolts, to a two bolts station located in a protected alcove under an overhang.

Pitch 4, 5.8, 50m, (6 bolts)

From the third belay station step left onto the wall with a bolt. Step to the left over rock crest onto a slab wall with two bolts, and then climb tending left, towards visible shattered roof. Clip into the bolt right under the roof and commit yourself to an exposed step around the roof (drag, use long sling). Fun move around left side of the roof will lead into shallow and broken crack. Step back right and traverse the slab passing 2 bolts underneath several roofs, to a steep corner with two additional bolts. Awkward moves lead to an easier ground ending at a bolted belay ledge.

Pitch 5, 5.10a (or 5.8 A0), 45m (7 bolts)

From the belay ledge, step right and move up along prominent crack, passing two bolts. At the end of the crack step left onto a small ledge, then follow up main corner with cool exposure down and to the left. Climb up past a single bolt to a steep wall with 3 visible bolts (5.10a). The 5.10a face climb is very well protected and easy to aid if needed (5.8 A0). After scaling the wall, follow deep gully with loose rock, passing a bolt, to a 2 bolt belay station.

Pitch 6, 30m 4th class.

At the top of Gobi Buttress

View from the top

Descent:

Rap the route using two double 60m ropes. From the top, rap all previous stations, all the way down to the top of pitch 2 (good ledge). From station 2, instead of retracing your climb, rappel 50m down and to the left to a station below orange roof. From here, 40m rap will put you at the base of Gobi Buttress.

All stations are equipped with fixed rings.

Return back to parting lot by retracing you hike-up to the climb.

Essential Gear

Single rack with cams up to #4 is recommended. At least 12 draws, few of them double.

Two 60m ropes are required to rappel.

External Links

Add External Links text here.