Marcus Folger and I climbed the Direct Exum in summer of 1997. We bivied at the moraines, then did the route and came back down in one day. I remember the route-finding on the upper part of the lower Exum was tricky. I think I got off-route and ended up going sideways along a horizontal crack, but I eventually got back on route and the crux 5.7 pitch was fantastic. The exposure was amazing and the rock was perfect and took great pro. The upper Exum was fun and easy, though long. We actually bailed a pitch or two below the summit by traversing over to the Owen-Spalding rappels because Marcus had some bad blisters on his feet. All in all, it was a great day.
Chris Thomas and I climbed the North Face in summer of 2001. We bivied before getting on the glacier, got up very early, and blasted the route in approach shoes, summitted, then hurried down the Garnet Canyon trail back to the car all in one day. The weather was perfect and so was the climb. I highly recommend this one.
Climbed mant yimes once in te winter Something I do not recomen uless you are either a very skilled climber ,, sthat and headed fro the Himalya .
I loved it in the fall a dusting of snow n the peaks and the Throne heh heh.
Another one to eithe chose a dificlt route or get up very early to get aahead of crowds and be down before the witching hour for storms .
Thsi isa Must do Peak ! Just not in the winter
weeds19 - Jan 27, 2007 5:06 am Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2004
Upper Exum
This is one of those classic peaks that you always look forward to, and it did not disappoint. We climbed it in two days camping just below the saddle on the first night. One of my top 10 peaks so far!
El_Capitan - Jan 24, 2007 3:27 am Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2005
upper exum
wanted to climb the direct exum but it was quite chilly even in august. did just the upper exum which was an easy but fun climb.
hepcat241 - Dec 25, 2006 6:21 am Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2006
wittich crack
Perfect day! No wind. No clouds. No problem.
goatboy smellz - Dec 13, 2006 3:32 pm Date Climbed: Oct 20, 1998
Upper Exum Ridge
Classic
aintlifegrand - Nov 20, 2006 8:55 pm Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2006
N. Face
First multi pitch mountain.. Super fun, bivied at first ledge
O/S between work shifts, Direct Exum, and Beyer East Face I
Got off work at midnightish, summitted at sunrise, ran down to get back to work at 1 p.m. (O/S) July 2005.
Direct Exum- Beautiful day, chipped a chunk off of my patella (kneecap)on the way up before the caves after falling through a moat in the snow. Still led a couple pitches, had a lot of fun, but didn't bend my knee the entire way down! (or for the next 2 weeks for that matter) (July 2007)
Beyer East Face 1-- Great climb, great partners, really nasty weather. A grand epic.
Outdoorpartner - Oct 5, 2006 6:07 am Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2003
Got sick
Made it to Exum camp and climbed All Along the Watchtower. Was too sick with flu to summit.
regolithe - Sep 15, 2006 8:56 am Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2006
Owen Spaulding
Great route. watch out for ice! cold on the west face of the Grand teton, til you get out on the catwalk just under sergent's chimney. Highly recommend this one!
Went with D. Bowers and K. Pusey from Exum as part of a benefit climb for Summit For Someone. Left lower saddle at 5:20am, summited at 9:15am. Beautiful weather. Beautiful views.
jpleonhard - Sep 13, 2006 4:18 am Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2006
Upper Exum
Froze my butt off on the Upper Exum with T. Haines and M. Opgenorth.
Day Hiker - Sep 5, 2006 4:31 am Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2006
Upper Exum Ridge
An excellent route that I would like to do again when I don't have the flu. The weather was perfect -- sunny and calm winds all day. Thanks cp0915 and rwkent for an awesome trip.
gato - Aug 17, 2006 5:33 pm Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2006
N Face Original Route
Classic indeed, with great exposure, some loose and wet rock to keep it spicy, but no weather. Long day with the circumnavigation of the Grand but completely worth it.
b. - Aug 15, 2006 4:36 pm Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2006
North Face, Old School Finish
Climbed the standard North Face route. Ice on the pendulum pitch and the late hour sent us around the west side. Getting on the route from the glacier was a little adventurous, but not bad. Bypassed all other snow and ice on the route by climbing slabs on the first ledge to the right of the ice.
Woodie Hopper - Jul 30, 2006 7:36 am Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2006
Single Day Upper Exum
Climbed with Dave Carman from Exum. We started at Lupine meadows at 3:30am, summited at noon and arrived back at the meadows at 6:30pm. Also as a bonus climbed Carman's tower, a short pitch above Wall Street, with Dave Carman. We couldn't have had better weather- no clouds for the duration. Great time!
skunk ape - Feb 27, 2007 1:56 am
OS.Great Fun!
patascent - Feb 11, 2007 4:11 am Date Climbed: Jul 31, 1999
Owen SpauldingFun climb.
chrisferro - Feb 10, 2007 6:12 pm
Direct Exum, 1997Marcus Folger and I climbed the Direct Exum in summer of 1997. We bivied at the moraines, then did the route and came back down in one day. I remember the route-finding on the upper part of the lower Exum was tricky. I think I got off-route and ended up going sideways along a horizontal crack, but I eventually got back on route and the crux 5.7 pitch was fantastic. The exposure was amazing and the rock was perfect and took great pro. The upper Exum was fun and easy, though long. We actually bailed a pitch or two below the summit by traversing over to the Owen-Spalding rappels because Marcus had some bad blisters on his feet. All in all, it was a great day.
chrisferro - Feb 9, 2007 11:02 pm
North Face, 2001Chris Thomas and I climbed the North Face in summer of 2001. We bivied before getting on the glacier, got up very early, and blasted the route in approach shoes, summitted, then hurried down the Garnet Canyon trail back to the car all in one day. The weather was perfect and so was the climb. I highly recommend this one.
Rick F - Feb 3, 2007 7:25 pm
amazing MountainClimbed mant yimes once in te winter Something I do not recomen uless you are either a very skilled climber ,, sthat and headed fro the Himalya .
I loved it in the fall a dusting of snow n the peaks and the Throne heh heh.
Another one to eithe chose a dificlt route or get up very early to get aahead of crowds and be down before the witching hour for storms .
Thsi isa Must do Peak ! Just not in the winter
weeds19 - Jan 27, 2007 5:06 am Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2004
Upper ExumThis is one of those classic peaks that you always look forward to, and it did not disappoint. We climbed it in two days camping just below the saddle on the first night. One of my top 10 peaks so far!
El_Capitan - Jan 24, 2007 3:27 am Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2005
upper exumwanted to climb the direct exum but it was quite chilly even in august. did just the upper exum which was an easy but fun climb.
hepcat241 - Dec 25, 2006 6:21 am Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2006
wittich crackPerfect day! No wind. No clouds. No problem.
goatboy smellz - Dec 13, 2006 3:32 pm Date Climbed: Oct 20, 1998
Upper Exum RidgeClassic
aintlifegrand - Nov 20, 2006 8:55 pm Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2006
N. FaceFirst multi pitch mountain.. Super fun, bivied at first ledge
Anneka - Oct 12, 2006 3:25 am
O/S between work shifts, Direct Exum, and Beyer East Face IGot off work at midnightish, summitted at sunrise, ran down to get back to work at 1 p.m. (O/S) July 2005.
Direct Exum- Beautiful day, chipped a chunk off of my patella (kneecap)on the way up before the caves after falling through a moat in the snow. Still led a couple pitches, had a lot of fun, but didn't bend my knee the entire way down! (or for the next 2 weeks for that matter) (July 2007)
Beyer East Face 1-- Great climb, great partners, really nasty weather. A grand epic.
Outdoorpartner - Oct 5, 2006 6:07 am Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2003
Got sickMade it to Exum camp and climbed All Along the Watchtower. Was too sick with flu to summit.
regolithe - Sep 15, 2006 8:56 am Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2006
Owen SpauldingGreat route. watch out for ice! cold on the west face of the Grand teton, til you get out on the catwalk just under sergent's chimney. Highly recommend this one!
slowpoke - Sep 13, 2006 3:28 pm Date Climbed: Sep 11, 2006
Upper Exum RidgeWent with D. Bowers and K. Pusey from Exum as part of a benefit climb for Summit For Someone. Left lower saddle at 5:20am, summited at 9:15am. Beautiful weather. Beautiful views.
jpleonhard - Sep 13, 2006 4:18 am Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2006
Upper ExumFroze my butt off on the Upper Exum with T. Haines and M. Opgenorth.
cp0915 - Sep 5, 2006 9:45 pm
Upper Exum RidgeClassic. Beautiful mountain. Beautiful summit.
Day Hiker - Sep 5, 2006 4:31 am Date Climbed: Sep 3, 2006
Upper Exum RidgeAn excellent route that I would like to do again when I don't have the flu. The weather was perfect -- sunny and calm winds all day. Thanks cp0915 and rwkent for an awesome trip.
gato - Aug 17, 2006 5:33 pm Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2006
N Face Original RouteClassic indeed, with great exposure, some loose and wet rock to keep it spicy, but no weather. Long day with the circumnavigation of the Grand but completely worth it.
b. - Aug 15, 2006 4:36 pm Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2006
North Face, Old School FinishClimbed the standard North Face route. Ice on the pendulum pitch and the late hour sent us around the west side. Getting on the route from the glacier was a little adventurous, but not bad. Bypassed all other snow and ice on the route by climbing slabs on the first ledge to the right of the ice.
Woodie Hopper - Jul 30, 2006 7:36 am Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2006
Single Day Upper ExumClimbed with Dave Carman from Exum. We started at Lupine meadows at 3:30am, summited at noon and arrived back at the meadows at 6:30pm. Also as a bonus climbed Carman's tower, a short pitch above Wall Street, with Dave Carman. We couldn't have had better weather- no clouds for the duration. Great time!