UIAA | Yosemite | Notes |
I | 3rd class | Easiest form of rock climbing. The hands are needed to support balance. Beginners should be protected with a rope. |
II | 4th class | You progress with simple foot and hand combinations. Real "3 fixed points" climbing, where you guard against a fall due to loose holds by only moving one limb at a time. For practiced climbers, usually done without a rope or going together on a short rope. |
III | 5.3 | Intermediate protection recommended. Vertical places or overhangs with good hand holds already require some strength. Even practiced climbers will use a rope. Occasional protection on long exposed sections. |
III+ | 5.4 | |
IV- | 5.5 | |
IV | 5.6 | Considerable climbing experience necessary. Longer pitches require several pieces of protection. |
IV+ | 5.6 / 5.7 | |
V- | 5.7 | |
V | 5.7 / 5.8 | Increasing number of protection pieces. A higher level of physical fitness is required. Climbing technique and experience are required. Long high Alpine routes at this level are among the serious routes in the Alps. |
V+ | 5.8 | |
VI- | 5.9 | |
VI | 5.10a | Climbing requires above average ability and physical fitness. High amount of exposure with few holds. Usually requires good conditions for success. Smallest holds require exceptional strength and sense of balance. Over long sections protection placement not feasible. |
VI+ | 5.10b | |
VII- | 5.10c | |
VII | 5.10d | |
VII+ | 5.11a/5.11b | |
VIII- | 5.11b/5.11c | |
VIII | 5.11d/5.12a | |
VIII+ | 5.12a/5.12b | |
IX- | 5.12b/5.12c | |
IX | 5.12d/5.13a |
French | Yosemite |
1 | 5.2 |
2 | 5.3 |
3 | 5.4 |
4 | 5.4 - 5.7! |
5a | 5.8 |
5b | 5.9 |
5c | 5.10a |
6a | 5.10b |
6a+ | 5.10c |
6b | 5.10d |
6b+ | 5.11a |
6c | 5.11b |
6c+ | 5.11c |
7a | 5.11d |
7a+ | 5.12a |
7b | 5.12b |
7b+ | 5.12c |
7c | 5.12d |
7c+ | 5.13a |
8a | 5.13b |
8a+ | 5.13c |
I | Just an hour or two of technical effort. These are the easiest routes, a step or two above hiking. |
II | A half day of technical terrain, requiring real climbing, but for a limited number of pitches. |
III | Most of a day on technical ground. Although a rock grade might be easy (4th class, low-5th, etc.), issues such as length, routefinding, or complexity will keep the challenge up. |
IV | A full day of technical climbing. Teams that are not "dialed in" should expect an unplanned bivouac. Expect rock climbing of at least 5.7, or steep snow/ice on the route. |
V | Typically requires a bivouac on the route. Expect rock climbing of at least 5.8, or serious aid or ice climbing. |
VI | Two or more days of hard climbing, whether aid, free or ice. The realm of big walls of all types. |
II | III | IV | V |
Ruth Mountain, Ruth Glacier Grand Teton, Exum Ridge Forbidden Peak, West Ridge (II/III) |
Glacier Peak, Frostbite Ridge Mount Triumph, Northeast Ridge Snow Creek Wall, Outer Space Mount Baker, North Ridge (III+) Grand Teton, Lower Exum Ridge |
Mount Stuart, North Ridge Dragontail Peak, Serpentine Arete Grand Teton, North Ridge Fairview Dome, Regular Route |
Slesse Mountain, Northeast Buttress Mount Rainier, Liberty Ridge Liberty Bell, Liberty Crack |
F | easy | facile |
These are often glacier walks, perhaps with some scrambling to reach the summit. | ||
PD | not difficult | peu difficile |
The level of good introductory climbs for novices. There may be a few pitches of mid-5th class climbing (or say, Grade III in UIAA). If it's a snow climb, there will be minor crevasse problems to deal with, or limited sections of very steep terrain. | ||
AD | fairly difficult | assez difficile |
At this level alpine climbs get interesting, that is, there are extended periods of roped climbing or exposed 4th class soloing, often in a remote location. An easy descent can no longer be expected, and the climb may be physically demanding. Many alpine ice climbs belong in this grade, barring the appearance of really frightening bergschrunds or extended mixed terrain. | ||
D | difficult | difficile |
Well stated in Alpine Select, "Climbs at this grade are significant undertakings for experienced climbers." If the climb is of short or medium length, expect a commenserately hard grade for the rock or ice. Longer climbs will have many pitches of serious rock climbing, all of which is under a higher commitment level due to problems of weather an difficulty of retreat. Difficult alpine ice climbs usually fall into this category. | ||
TD | very difficult | trés difficile |
These are hard routes no matter who is judging. Expect rock difficulties of 5.10 or greater, and sustained for multiple pitches. If the technical difficulty is not so great, there will be other factors that make the climb intimidating: poor protection, "points of no return" where up is the only way, notorious weather problems, etc. | ||
ED1/2/3/4 | extremely difficult | extramement difficile |
These are "the most demanding climbs in the world." You need mental tolerance for sustained, high levels of objective hazard, as well as flawless technical ability certainly above the stated crux of the climb. These will be long, stressful undertakings with difficult retreat. Difficult mixed climbing with poor protection, 5.9 rock climbing in extreme cold, aid climbing with dangerous pitches...all under a calving glacier for three days - have fun! |
PD | AD | D | TD |
Mont Blanc, standard route (PD+) Mount Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver (PD+) |
Matterhorn, Hornli Ridge (AD+) Bugaboo Spire, Kain Route Forbidden Peak, West Ridge Mount Whitney, East Face Mount Baker, North Ridge |
Tour Ronde, North Face Sir Donald, Northwest Ridge (D-) Mount Rainier, Liberty Ridge Grand Teton, Black Ice Couloir Mount Edith Cavell, East Ridge |
Slesse Mountain, Northeast Buttress Howser Towers, Beckey-Chouinard Mount Edith Cavell, North Face |