March up Tacaná

Introduction

Mexico's 8th highest peak offers hikers a chance to immerse themselves in the spectacular flora as they scale up this dormant volcano (last eruption: 1986). Mountain ranges often act as natural dividers between countries but Volcán Tacaná is unique in that it is literally split down the middle with Mexico on one side and Guatemala on the other.

Preconceptions 

As we were traversing Chiapas we thought that we would only ascend the Mexican side. However, the exceptional Señora Morayma informed us that the Guatemalan side was preferable because of the friendly folk found along the way. Before arriving in Union Juarez we hadn't been sure whether we would be able to go up and down in one day. Due to my partner's knee being dodgy we were told to not consider it. 

Guided vs. unguided

A guide is indispensable due to the myriad of paths. We even heard about a Mexican male who forwent assistance and ended up dying of hypothermia from getting rained on and not being able to find shelter. However, an experienced guide, like Guatemalan mule-toting Florencio (sorry, no surname or number), is even better. 

Mule benefits

A mule to carry your things and yourself if it all gets too leg-shattering is a worthwhile and cheap investment as it literally takes the weight off the climb.

Terrain

The route is steep throughout. There are hardly any flat areas and scrambling is required only once or twice. The route is made up of earth, grass, cobbles, rocks and loose soil, which can be slippery. Three out of four of our group slipped and fell at one point. Occasional wading through foliage is needed. 

Sleeping

Spending a night on top of the mountain is recommended. It is possible to sleep in the crater or in nearby caves. We slept at flat area called Ardillas which translates as Squirrels where it is possible to make a bonfire. However, there is no enclosed shelter. Just a sort of barn, partially walled on two sides. Fortunately our guide had managed to muster a tent, sleeping bag and blankets for us in town. Four out of six of our group, including guides, relied solely on sleeping bags and blankets for which woolly hats would have acted as the only cranial barrier against the elements. The temperature drops after sundown and the cold really starts to bite around 3 am. Gloves are not necessary but layers, a jumper and a jacket are. 

Morning and the Summit

We arose to a beautiful sunrise over Volcán Tlajumulco, the neighbouring volcano in Guatemala, and the tallest peak in Central America. From Ardillas it's a half hour hike to the crater: a flat, grassy area surrounded by rocks, and a further one hour to the summit. Early morning it's clear but after around 8 am the clouds started to roll in. The afternoon brings reduced visibility. From the crater we could just make out the breakers on the Pacific. It is hard to orientate yourself to know which side is Mexico and which is Guatemala. What is neat is that there are white plinths marking the frontier throughout the journey. 

The hike from Ardillas to the summit is challenging as your body adjusts to the altitude (4110 m at the peak). I had to catch my breath to slow my heart rate down every 30 paces to combat the relentless inclination of the climb. We brought a pole each which was very helpful. 

Overview

Although the climb was not at all technical it certainly was a serious workout and very tiring. 

When to go

We climbed in mid-March and only saw three small groups (eight people in total) throughout, aside from the amiable Guatemalan children and farmers who live on the mountain. Apparently December is the busiest time of year to climb followed by Easter. Climbing is virtually off limits during the rainy season; from June to November.

Logistics

We did the climb in around 9 hours and the descent in about 5. A collectivo or taxi will take you from Union Juarez to Talquián but that's the final asphalt frontier. 

Recommendations

I can not speak highly enough of Casa Morayma, a boutique style hotel at rock bottom prices, where we stayed before the climb, where you can find the inimitable Señora Morayma. Don't miss feasting on her delicious morsels. She arranged a guide for us.

Unless you are young or in extremely good condition don't attempt to do the climb and ascend in one day. Apart from anything else you won't be able to enjoy the astonishing changes in vegetation, from lush greens to arid pines, or be able to document them on your camera. Your knees may also suffer.

Conclusion

All in all climbing Tacaná was a marvellous experience, reaffirming that true nature and beauty still exists. The collaborative attitude between the two adjoining nations was inspiring as was the above-the-clouds sunrise over nearby Tlajumulco.

Tacaná, otherwise known as the Casa del Feugo or House of Fire, was, as-legend-has-it, so-named by Tlajumulco, her boyfriend, at first. However, the female Tacaná began to spurn Tlajumulco's amourous advances and used dragons to keep him at bay. Is it any wonder why Tacaná signifies Casa del Fuego when your legs will be burning for weeks!?