Margherita Peak via Margherita Glacier Climber's Log

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Matt McCullough

Matt McCullough - Nov 26, 2018 8:35 am Date Climbed: Apr 29, 2017

Margherita Peak Summit on Mt. Stanley and Snowboard Descent (Alexandra Glacier)   Sucess!

I was able to summit Margherita Peak and make a snowboard descent of a section of Alexandra glacier/Stanley Plateau on Mt. Stanley within the Rwenzori Mountains National Park of Uganda on April 29, 2017. Unfortunately, there were near white-out conditions and the glacier surface existed of slightly carveable crust and patches of black cruddy ice. The snow conditions on the glacier were quite poorer than expected and sadly the glacier is melting rapidly.

TodoVertical

TodoVertical - Mar 22, 2011 1:46 am Date Climbed: Jan 16, 2011

SUMMIT of MARGHERITA PEAK (RWENZORI) - TODOVERTICAL  Sucess!

One of the best trekking and mountain experience I had in my life.

Guided 7 people to the summit.

Never underestimate this mountain.

Soon some pictures at:
www.todovertical.com



bruno baschung

bruno baschung - Jan 11, 2011 4:02 pm Date Climbed: Jan 2, 2011

ascent normal route  Sucess!

Ascent completed via the normal route.

be careful with crevasses on Margerita glacier and during the traverse following the saddle between alexandra and margerita (quite steep, with danger of ice falling from upside).

Some precautions are also needed between stnaley plateau and margerita glacier (fixed ropes and ladder usually in place). Take GPS points on Ruwenzori plateau!

Bruno Baschung

Dan Bailey

Dan Bailey - Mar 12, 2007 4:33 pm

unbelievable place  Sucess!

Climbed via Stanley Plateau and Margherita Glacier. Bergschrund issues accessing the latter. Some crevasses. Fixed rope and a ladder (!) on the final rock peak. Guides are compulsory but ours at least were liabilities when it came to rope work on summit day, and we'd have been far happier if they'd stayed in the hut. They know the mountain paths very well, but don't trust them to lead you up the climbing section safely. We had to take charge while they bumbled around dangerously, which was a weird situation. Most amazing mountain range in Africa, but don't forget your gaiters, wellies or an expendable pair of trainers for the bogs.

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