Mary Worth Buttress, 5.10a-5.10c

Overview/Approach

Comic Book itself has a few classic long trad lines, but the north face of Comic Strip is better combined with the south face of Mary Worth Buttress.  This allows you to climb in the sun in the morning and switch to the shade in the afternoon during winter months.  Mary Worth has two decent tall 5.10 slab climbs on it and the Comic Strip has three worthy 5.10 leads.  The two lines on Mary Worth that are "worthy" are Bottle in Front of Me, 5.10a*, and Welcome to Joshua Tree, 5.10c*.  A short tower at the base of the canyon that splits Comic Book and Mary Worth is also worth climbing and is included with the Mary Worth Buttress routes in the local guide, but is not on the buttress.  Its lone route is named Stargazer, 5.10b.

Approach as you would for the Comic Book.  From Hidden Valley camping you could hike to Mary Worth Buttress to the east.  But if driving, take any of the pull outs on the right after passing the left turn for the campground.  The Sphinx is distinguishable from the road and looks like the Sphinx in Egypt.  Mary Worth Buttress and the Comic Strip are southeast from the Sphinx and come into view as soon as you circumvent the west side of the Sphinx if hiking south.  Mary Worth is a large slab seperated by a broad gully from Comic Strip.  Its broad slab faces direct south up on the hill.

Routes Listed Left to  Right When Facing this South Facing Wall

Distant Episode- 5.10c/

Bottle in Front of Me- 100’-5.10a*/ This is a worthwhile face to arete climb at the west end of the broad slab that is Mary Worth Buttress.  It looks chossy but in reality is cleaner than many remote slab climbs in Jtree.  Climb through seven bolts.  There are no gear options. The first six are reasonably close.  To reach the 7^th is quite run out and it is the only buttonhead of the group as of 2024.  Climb the edges up the face trending right.  Then traverse back left to the arete and better-quality rock.  Finish up the left side face through the button head to a fixed rap atop this end of the formation.  Seven draws.  Route receives full sun.  Dow

Cerebral Dysfuncton- 5.10aR/

Welcome to Joshua Tree- 5.10c/

Stargazer- 30’-5.10*/ This route is included with the Mary Worth Buttress routes in Miramontes guide.  However it is a lone tower named Astronomy Rock, located near the desert floor between Comic Strip and Mary Worth.  It is worth doing if you are headed for Mary Worth Buttress as you pass it along the way.  Look for an east facing bolted (3) arete high up on a tower.  The bolts are on the north side of the arete.  Scramble to the base of the arete.  The three bolts are buttonheads.  The first clip you can reach from the deck and the first few moves are definitely the crux of the climb.  If you grab the arete for these first few moves, it will cause you to barn door.  It is better to crimp down on the face through the first bolt and then grab the arete with your left hand.  From there it is fun movement over grainy rock.  There is an obvious good hold directly on the arete near the end, once you step on this you can mantel up to the summit of this tower.  There are two buttonheads on top to set up a TR if wanted.  The tower is easily downclimbed via a gully at its west end, returning to the base of the climb.  Several draws.  Route receives shade most of the day.  Dow