I really liked reading your whole thought process in the beginning. I somewhere in the middle of what you described...just about ready to conquer Capitol Peak. Although climbs like this (desert towers) don't interest me the slightest bit, I want to advance to more serious alpine mountaineering. The high cascades and the Bulger List will be my next training grounds after I finish the Centennials by this July as they will provide me a harder set of mountains to pursue.
Capitol Peak? Not a big deal. The Bells? No problem. The Titan? Yeesh. I may go an infinite amount of time before I would ever feel OK trusting a fall to some of those placements.
I've been searching around for more photos and writings of the Finger of Fate, finding very little. Thanks for the excellent documentation! Your report gives me a much better sense of what I need to work towards mentally, technically, and experientially for tackling that route! Good to know that I should play around more with my tricams on aid leads.
I also loved your writing beyond the climb itself. One suggestion, though. Paragraphs please? It is harder to read this in bits and pieces during discreet breaks at work :-)
[Edit: I see smaller paragraphs to start. Perhaps you missed a closure tag for NoFormat, or you need to manually code in some line break or paragraph html tags?]
Thanks. You will really enjoy the Titan when you finally go down for it. If I were to do it again, I would bring sawed off angles to hand stack in the scars on P3 and that would make like much better than relying on those sketchy tricams.
What is the HTML code for paragraph indents? I was trying to make them and couldn't figure it out.
I have some angles. Perhaps I should find a shop to saw them short? Or did you have easy enough luck looking for them elswhere like Mountain Project? I've been there for Ancient Art and walked to the base of the Sundveil Chimney. That rock is horrifying, yet alluring. I led Kor-Ingalls last weekend and I have to admit the desert sandstone is really growing on me!
For paragraph indents, use "<"P">" but without the quotations. No need for a closure tag.
I would just saw them at home. Sundevil is on my list for the future but it sure is intimidating from below! How was Kor-Ingalls? I'm scared of the OW crux.
Any other ideas on the indent? I put in the <"p"> and it didn't do anything.
Hmm, I'll take a look at your code after I get home from work tonight.
OW crux was manageable, but then again I like the stuff! Actually, at the hardest section I think you're supposed to exit the OW into a wide & wild stem on the slick calcite, move up a body length, then flip back into the squeeze where you can then tunnel into a nice secure chimney. There is a bolt right at the hardest part of the OW where you should start stemming (3rd bolt of the pitch), and it looked all right. I actually found P2 to be harder/freakier in a way, but I think I didn't take the best route on that.
well, looking at the code, it looks like is working (leave out the "") as that set up the spaces fine at the beginning of your Chapter 5. So just throw in two of those where you want a space between paragraphs.
Vitaliy M. - Apr 30, 2012 3:44 pm - Voted 10/10
Awesome photos......and a great report. TYFP
Matt Lemke - May 1, 2012 1:08 am - Voted 10/10
Very nice report!I really liked reading your whole thought process in the beginning. I somewhere in the middle of what you described...just about ready to conquer Capitol Peak. Although climbs like this (desert towers) don't interest me the slightest bit, I want to advance to more serious alpine mountaineering. The high cascades and the Bulger List will be my next training grounds after I finish the Centennials by this July as they will provide me a harder set of mountains to pursue.
rpc - May 1, 2012 3:26 pm - Voted 10/10
nice!love the photos.
Ted Eliason - May 3, 2012 5:42 pm - Voted 10/10
CajonesCapitol Peak? Not a big deal. The Bells? No problem. The Titan? Yeesh. I may go an infinite amount of time before I would ever feel OK trusting a fall to some of those placements.
Brian C - May 3, 2012 5:49 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: CajonesHaha! I don't think I would have trusted falling on about 90% of the placements we made.
PellucidWombat - May 4, 2012 4:35 pm - Voted 10/10
SuperbI've been searching around for more photos and writings of the Finger of Fate, finding very little. Thanks for the excellent documentation! Your report gives me a much better sense of what I need to work towards mentally, technically, and experientially for tackling that route! Good to know that I should play around more with my tricams on aid leads.
I also loved your writing beyond the climb itself. One suggestion, though. Paragraphs please? It is harder to read this in bits and pieces during discreet breaks at work :-)
[Edit: I see smaller paragraphs to start. Perhaps you missed a closure tag for NoFormat, or you need to manually code in some line break or paragraph html tags?]
Brian C - May 4, 2012 6:00 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: SuperbThanks. You will really enjoy the Titan when you finally go down for it. If I were to do it again, I would bring sawed off angles to hand stack in the scars on P3 and that would make like much better than relying on those sketchy tricams.
What is the HTML code for paragraph indents? I was trying to make them and couldn't figure it out.
PellucidWombat - May 4, 2012 7:00 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: SuperbI have some angles. Perhaps I should find a shop to saw them short? Or did you have easy enough luck looking for them elswhere like Mountain Project? I've been there for Ancient Art and walked to the base of the Sundveil Chimney. That rock is horrifying, yet alluring. I led Kor-Ingalls last weekend and I have to admit the desert sandstone is really growing on me!
For paragraph indents, use "<"P">" but without the quotations. No need for a closure tag.
Brian C - May 5, 2012 2:31 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: SuperbI would just saw them at home. Sundevil is on my list for the future but it sure is intimidating from below! How was Kor-Ingalls? I'm scared of the OW crux.
Any other ideas on the indent? I put in the <"p"> and it didn't do anything.
PellucidWombat - May 8, 2012 9:32 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: SuperbHmm, I'll take a look at your code after I get home from work tonight.
OW crux was manageable, but then again I like the stuff! Actually, at the hardest section I think you're supposed to exit the OW into a wide & wild stem on the slick calcite, move up a body length, then flip back into the squeeze where you can then tunnel into a nice secure chimney. There is a bolt right at the hardest part of the OW where you should start stemming (3rd bolt of the pitch), and it looked all right. I actually found P2 to be harder/freakier in a way, but I think I didn't take the best route on that.
PellucidWombat - May 10, 2012 6:54 pm - Voted 10/10
Re: Superbwell, looking at the code, it looks like is working (leave out the "") as that set up the spaces fine at the beginning of your Chapter 5. So just throw in two of those where you want a space between paragraphs.