Another important piece of history - and who better to tell it?
I knew the bare bones of the story and that it had ended in acrimony between the 2 men, but didn't know details - and didn't know about all the different attempts, including the Gouter route.
I wonder if some of the acriminony had a basis in the tragedy of Balmats daughter? It seems extraordinary that he left her apparently dieing down in the valley. I wonder if he resented 'the Doctor' driving him on - especially when the little girl died... But as you point out the desire for fame and greed were there as well - also pretty divisive!
Thanks for a fascinating read about my favourite mountain, which I hope to climb for the 6th time in a few weeks as you know. Actually the photos & images you found were equally fascinating - seeing the valley as it was up to 200 years ago - and seeing the detail of the routes they took.
Balmat's child death was not an issue between the two men. She was 6 weeks old and you must remember that at this period the infantile mortality in France was around 33% before 1 year old. At the time a saying was 'you need two births to make an adult'. Other people have stated the 'insenbility' of both Balmat and Paccard at this death, but that also is untrue. Both, but of course Balmat more, were grieved by it.
I will add that Jacques Balmat did not have much luck with his children. The Two elder of his four sons will die during the Napoleonic wars, one disappeared in Spain (1808), the second one wounded in Germany will die from his wounds in 1813 in a French hospital and his family will receive his death's notice only 7 years after! The third one had more luck and established himself in Louisiana in 1839. The fourth one will be the only one to become a guide before emigrating also to the US.
Best luck for your project to bivouac on top of Mont Blanc.
translation from French:
I certify that on 8th August, 1786, about a quarter to seven in the evening, being at Chamonix and having returned from the Montanvert, I was told that two inhabitants of the place the Dr. Paccard and Marie Balmat, must have gone on the Mont-Blanc to try to ascend to the summit. Thereupon, having gone outside the inn with the Baron d'Hernsdorf, I saw very distinctly by means of a telescope, two persons ascending the summit of the Mont-Blanc; we followed them with this same telescope, the Baron de Hernsdorf as well as several inhabitants of the place, until they had arrived on the highest point, where they were very clearly visible during nearly a half an hour, at the end of which we saw them redescend by the same route. In addition, the next morning , having learned that they had reached home at dawn and being desirous to see them before my departure, I learned that they were gone to bed and so tired that no one could talk to them. In witness of which I have subscribed my name at Morges. Serge De Lanskoy Officer of H.I.M. of all the Russias, September 12, 17786.
yes, I have read several times about Serge de Lanksoy, a Russian officer who would have observed Balmat and Paccard on the summit and signed a testimonial. However I chose not to mention it as I did not find any proof of what he had exactly written unlike the ones I quote, particularly von Gersdorf whose diaries concerning the ascent were published by Dübi. Also he would have only stated that he saw the two men on top, no more, while von Gersdorf and von Meyer state that they saw the two men reaching the summit at the same time.
And the statement you quote contains errors: 'Marie Balmat' instead of Jacques Balmat; Baron de Hernsdorff instead of baron von Gersdorf; also the timing is erroneous. Balmat and Paccard reached the summit at 6:23 p.m. and von Gersdorf with his friend von Meyer had been watching the ascent for at least 2 hours then at Bourrit's chalet (probably in Les Moussoux facing Mont Blanc) as more easily observable from there: so they were not in the inn of Chamonix at quarter to seven. If you let me know the source of your quote, I could make some further searches.
The Baron names Herr von Lanskoy as an observer of the climb in his Geneva letter of 12 August 1786. His Geneva letter is then published on 23 August 1786 in the Leipziger Zeitungen. He says the Russian officer was watching the ascent through the telescope. I found these letters on the first ascent of Mont Blanc on pages 117-118 in the Alpine Journal vol. 30 published during the “great war”. It seems that the two accounts corroborate each other and the transformation of the Gersdorf name is probably consistent with Russian pronunciation.
markhallam - May 27, 2013 1:20 am - Voted 10/10
Bravo EricAnother important piece of history - and who better to tell it?
I knew the bare bones of the story and that it had ended in acrimony between the 2 men, but didn't know details - and didn't know about all the different attempts, including the Gouter route.
I wonder if some of the acriminony had a basis in the tragedy of Balmats daughter? It seems extraordinary that he left her apparently dieing down in the valley. I wonder if he resented 'the Doctor' driving him on - especially when the little girl died... But as you point out the desire for fame and greed were there as well - also pretty divisive!
Thanks for a fascinating read about my favourite mountain, which I hope to climb for the 6th time in a few weeks as you know. Actually the photos & images you found were equally fascinating - seeing the valley as it was up to 200 years ago - and seeing the detail of the routes they took.
Best wishes, Mark
ericvola - May 27, 2013 2:47 am - Hasn't voted
Balmat's childBalmat's child death was not an issue between the two men. She was 6 weeks old and you must remember that at this period the infantile mortality in France was around 33% before 1 year old. At the time a saying was 'you need two births to make an adult'. Other people have stated the 'insenbility' of both Balmat and Paccard at this death, but that also is untrue. Both, but of course Balmat more, were grieved by it.
I will add that Jacques Balmat did not have much luck with his children. The Two elder of his four sons will die during the Napoleonic wars, one disappeared in Spain (1808), the second one wounded in Germany will die from his wounds in 1813 in a French hospital and his family will receive his death's notice only 7 years after! The third one had more luck and established himself in Louisiana in 1839. The fourth one will be the only one to become a guide before emigrating also to the US.
Best luck for your project to bivouac on top of Mont Blanc.
desainme - May 27, 2013 10:51 am - Voted 10/10
Serge De Lanskoy also observed the ascenttranslation from French:
I certify that on 8th August, 1786, about a quarter to seven in the evening, being at Chamonix and having returned from the Montanvert, I was told that two inhabitants of the place the Dr. Paccard and Marie Balmat, must have gone on the Mont-Blanc to try to ascend to the summit. Thereupon, having gone outside the inn with the Baron d'Hernsdorf, I saw very distinctly by means of a telescope, two persons ascending the summit of the Mont-Blanc; we followed them with this same telescope, the Baron de Hernsdorf as well as several inhabitants of the place, until they had arrived on the highest point, where they were very clearly visible during nearly a half an hour, at the end of which we saw them redescend by the same route. In addition, the next morning , having learned that they had reached home at dawn and being desirous to see them before my departure, I learned that they were gone to bed and so tired that no one could talk to them. In witness of which I have subscribed my name at Morges. Serge De Lanskoy Officer of H.I.M. of all the Russias, September 12, 17786.
ericvola - May 27, 2013 12:55 pm - Hasn't voted
Serge de Lansoyyes, I have read several times about Serge de Lanksoy, a Russian officer who would have observed Balmat and Paccard on the summit and signed a testimonial. However I chose not to mention it as I did not find any proof of what he had exactly written unlike the ones I quote, particularly von Gersdorf whose diaries concerning the ascent were published by Dübi. Also he would have only stated that he saw the two men on top, no more, while von Gersdorf and von Meyer state that they saw the two men reaching the summit at the same time.
And the statement you quote contains errors: 'Marie Balmat' instead of Jacques Balmat; Baron de Hernsdorff instead of baron von Gersdorf; also the timing is erroneous. Balmat and Paccard reached the summit at 6:23 p.m. and von Gersdorf with his friend von Meyer had been watching the ascent for at least 2 hours then at Bourrit's chalet (probably in Les Moussoux facing Mont Blanc) as more easily observable from there: so they were not in the inn of Chamonix at quarter to seven. If you let me know the source of your quote, I could make some further searches.
Best
desainme - May 27, 2013 10:46 pm - Voted 10/10
Serge and the BaronThe Baron names Herr von Lanskoy as an observer of the climb in his Geneva letter of 12 August 1786. His Geneva letter is then published on 23 August 1786 in the Leipziger Zeitungen. He says the Russian officer was watching the ascent through the telescope. I found these letters on the first ascent of Mont Blanc on pages 117-118 in the Alpine Journal vol. 30 published during the “great war”. It seems that the two accounts corroborate each other and the transformation of the Gersdorf name is probably consistent with Russian pronunciation.
Best,
Mark