Desert Solitaire - Sep 29, 2006 2:39 am Date Climbed: Sep 20, 2006
From all around!
McAdie-Mallory-Irvine loop via Consultation Lake. Apparently I got a taste for just about every route on this peak. From the saddle near Arc Pass, I tried first to make a direct ridgeline traverse to Mallory from the North(failed - got cliffed out after some tough 4th/5th moves), so descended 1000 ft on the West side and ascended again from the South. Descended the East ridge and traversed to Irvine. Needless to say, I didn't like this peak very much - but thats very much my own fault!
jonhersh - Sep 1, 2006 5:12 am Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2003
East Slope
Enjoyable snow climb from Meysan Lake. Thought about going for Irvine, but the weather looked sketchy.
Steve Larson - May 20, 2006 4:14 pm Date Climbed: May 19, 2006
Ski descent
I humped my skis all the way to the Mallory-LeConte plateau. By then I was way behind schedule due to sleeping in and finding much less snow down low than I expected. I was going to climb LeConte, but decided not to mess with it. The weather was coming in from the west, though it didn't look too bad. The summit ridge was kind of fun. It started snowing by the time I got my skis on. The ski descent from the plateau to Meysan Lake was superb despite the bad weather. Below that the skiing was all about survival to about 10,000 feet, where I picked up the trail and walked out.
Route Climbed: Northwest Ridge Date Climbed: 1 Oct 05
Class 3 traverse variation from Mt Irvine. To avoid snow in the Irvine basin, descended part way down to Arc Pass and counted buttresses over. Miscounted by 1 and climbed Class 4/5 peaklet to the west of Mallory. After attempting incorrect sporty descent (5.10+), found easier way to the start of Class 3 climb up Mallory. Descent via Mallory plateau to Meysan Lake.
Route Climbed: East Slope Date Climbed: September 10, 2005
First peak of the day on my solo link-up of Mallory/LeConte/Lone Pine Peak. Left the Meysan trailhead at 5:00am. Summited Mallory at 10:01am, summited LeConte at 11:12am and finally Lone Pine Peak at 2:00pm.
Route Climbed: Northwest ridge Date Climbed: July 2, 2005
Climbed after Irvine; did not do the complete traverse because we got off route; ended up dropping ~1000 feet and going up the SW gully which reachs the notch between the Mallory's true summit and the lesser summit to the north. One of us climbed the chimney while another by-passed it for something a little faster. Rested for about 20 mins at the top. good day...
Route Climbed: East Slope Date Climbed: Oct 9, 2004
Not one of my better outings this summer. At one time, I'd entertained the notion of trying to knock off Corcoran, LeConte, Mallory, McAdie, and Irvine all in a day. Realism subsequently set in, and I scaled back objectives to LeConte, Corcoran, and Mallory.
But even with this modest plan, I failed miserably: A rather pathetic effort saw me climb only Mallory, as route-finding difficulties thwarted me on LeConte/Corcoran. At least Mallory was better than I expected, with some mildly airy scrambling around the summit.
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention--I'm never, ever again hiking up to the LeConte-Mallory plateau from Meysan Lake. What a slog! Ugh!
Route Climbed: East Slope Date Climbed: September 4 2004
Came over from Mt. Leconte and decended the NW Ridge to Arc Pass. Surprisingly there was no slogging on this peak, well except for the 2,000 ft or so up to the plateau.
Route Climbed: Meysan Lake straight to the top Date Climbed: Aug 2003
Did this as a day hike from Portal Rd (bivied @ Tuttle Creek - not the best preparation) via Meysan Lake trail.
3 of the party linked to Irvine after we topped out on Mallory. I had to bring down an altitude sick partner and was not able to knock off Mallory. Descent route down the chute between Mallory and Irvine looks like a good winter/spring pitch given enough ice formation.
Route Climbed: East slope Date Climbed: August 1999
Spent the night at Meysan Lake and got an early start on the East slope. Fun summit block, great view. Lots of rockfall in the gulley. Should have combined with Irvine and/or LeConte. Oh well, next time.
Route Climbed: Up East Slope, down North ridge Date Climbed: August 29th, 2003
Peak number three on the day. The down climb was a lot more fun. Bob will be happy to know that the West side of the North ridge is a fun Class 3 down climb. I will submit both a trip report and a route report for this.
Route Climbed: East Slope (ascent) / East Chute (descent) Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2002
Day 9 of the 2002 Mountaineers Challenge. Dayhiking from Whitney Portal, three of us climbed LeConte first. I left the others for an attempt on Corcoran (I got lost, but found some fun scrambling while I blew three hours) then came back to climb Mallory. I thought it would be just a slog, but it turned out to have some fun class 3 at the summit. The big mistake of the day was descending the East Chute. Just finding my way down to the entrance was a pain, as I descended twice from the east ridge only to have to climb back out when I got cliffed out. Finally reaching the chute, it turned out to be incredibly tedious and loose. No short cut there! Trip Report.
Route Climbed: East Slope Date Climbed: August 2002
I climbed it with my friend Mike. Despite an early start from the Portal, we did not arrive back at his truck until after midnight because of some unexpected delays. Still, it was a great day in a beautiful area. We had hoped to climb Mts. LeConte and Corcoran that day, too.
Desert Solitaire - Sep 29, 2006 2:39 am Date Climbed: Sep 20, 2006
From all around!McAdie-Mallory-Irvine loop via Consultation Lake. Apparently I got a taste for just about every route on this peak. From the saddle near Arc Pass, I tried first to make a direct ridgeline traverse to Mallory from the North(failed - got cliffed out after some tough 4th/5th moves), so descended 1000 ft on the West side and ascended again from the South. Descended the East ridge and traversed to Irvine. Needless to say, I didn't like this peak very much - but thats very much my own fault!
jonhersh - Sep 1, 2006 5:12 am Date Climbed: Jun 8, 2003
East SlopeEnjoyable snow climb from Meysan Lake. Thought about going for Irvine, but the weather looked sketchy.
Steve Larson - May 20, 2006 4:14 pm Date Climbed: May 19, 2006
Ski descentI humped my skis all the way to the Mallory-LeConte plateau. By then I was way behind schedule due to sleeping in and finding much less snow down low than I expected. I was going to climb LeConte, but decided not to mess with it. The weather was coming in from the west, though it didn't look too bad. The summit ridge was kind of fun. It started snowing by the time I got my skis on. The ski descent from the plateau to Meysan Lake was superb despite the bad weather. Below that the skiing was all about survival to about 10,000 feet, where I picked up the trail and walked out.
bechtt - Oct 2, 2005 8:27 pm
Route Climbed: Northwest Ridge Date Climbed: 1 Oct 05Class 3 traverse variation from Mt Irvine. To avoid snow in the Irvine basin, descended part way down to Arc Pass and counted buttresses over. Miscounted by 1 and climbed Class 4/5 peaklet to the west of Mallory. After attempting incorrect sporty descent (5.10+), found easier way to the start of Class 3 climb up Mallory. Descent via Mallory plateau to Meysan Lake.
Al - Sep 27, 2005 11:58 pm
Route Climbed: NW Ridge Date Climbed: Jul 2, 05Good day. Irvine & Mallory from Meysan Lake.
forjan - Sep 11, 2005 2:06 pm
Route Climbed: East Slope Date Climbed: September 10, 2005First peak of the day on my solo link-up of Mallory/LeConte/Lone Pine Peak. Left the Meysan trailhead at 5:00am. Summited Mallory at 10:01am, summited LeConte at 11:12am and finally Lone Pine Peak at 2:00pm.
tiogap - Sep 8, 2005 10:54 pm
Route Climbed: 2nd class Date Climbed: August, 1980climbed along with Irvine
physics - Jul 4, 2005 1:06 am
Route Climbed: Northwest ridge Date Climbed: July 2, 2005Climbed after Irvine; did not do the complete traverse because we got off route; ended up dropping ~1000 feet and going up the SW gully which reachs the notch between the Mallory's true summit and the lesser summit to the north. One of us climbed the chimney while another by-passed it for something a little faster. Rested for about 20 mins at the top. good day...
Matthew Holliman - Nov 22, 2004 12:44 am
Route Climbed: East Slope Date Climbed: Oct 9, 2004Not one of my better outings this summer. At one time, I'd entertained the notion of trying to knock off Corcoran, LeConte, Mallory, McAdie, and Irvine all in a day. Realism subsequently set in, and I scaled back objectives to LeConte, Corcoran, and Mallory.
But even with this modest plan, I failed miserably: A rather pathetic effort saw me climb only Mallory, as route-finding difficulties thwarted me on LeConte/Corcoran. At least Mallory was better than I expected, with some mildly airy scrambling around the summit.
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention--I'm never, ever again hiking up to the LeConte-Mallory plateau from Meysan Lake. What a slog! Ugh!
Completebum - Sep 6, 2004 2:45 pm
Route Climbed: East Slope Date Climbed: September 4 2004Came over from Mt. Leconte and decended the NW Ridge to Arc Pass. Surprisingly there was no slogging on this peak, well except for the 2,000 ft or so up to the plateau.
Shano - Apr 1, 2004 10:19 am
Route Climbed: Meysan Lake straight to the top Date Climbed: Aug 2003Did this as a day hike from Portal Rd (bivied @ Tuttle Creek - not the best preparation) via Meysan Lake trail.
3 of the party linked to Irvine after we topped out on Mallory. I had to bring down an altitude sick partner and was not able to knock off Mallory. Descent route down the chute between Mallory and Irvine looks like a good winter/spring pitch given enough ice formation.
Back at the cars at 10pm (not a very fast day.)
I'll be back to do this one again...
crag - Jan 23, 2004 1:08 pm
Route Climbed: East slope Date Climbed: August 1999Spent the night at Meysan Lake and got an early start on the East slope. Fun summit block, great view. Lots of rockfall in the gulley. Should have combined with Irvine and/or LeConte. Oh well, next time.
mtnfoto - Jan 22, 2004 3:00 pm
Route Climbed: East slopes Date Climbed: 1998Climbed this as a day hike with Irvine and Candlelight.
thebeave7 - Aug 30, 2003 10:30 pm
Route Climbed: Up East Slope, down North ridge Date Climbed: August 29th, 2003Peak number three on the day. The down climb was a lot more fun. Bob will be happy to know that the West side of the North ridge is a fun Class 3 down climb. I will submit both a trip report and a route report for this.
Joe Hanssen - Mar 3, 2003 5:11 pm
Route Climbed: East Slope Date Climbed: August 25 '02Climbed Mallory as part of the '02 Sierra Mountaineers Challenge. Great back-to-back climb with Mt LeConte.
Bob Burd - Nov 20, 2002 9:48 am
Route Climbed: East Slope (ascent) / East Chute (descent) Date Climbed: Aug 25, 2002Day 9 of the 2002 Mountaineers Challenge. Dayhiking from Whitney Portal, three of us climbed LeConte first. I left the others for an attempt on Corcoran (I got lost, but found some fun scrambling while I blew three hours) then came back to climb Mallory. I thought it would be just a slog, but it turned out to have some fun class 3 at the summit. The big mistake of the day was descending the East Chute. Just finding my way down to the entrance was a pain, as I descended twice from the east ridge only to have to climb back out when I got cliffed out. Finally reaching the chute, it turned out to be incredibly tedious and loose. No short cut there! Trip Report.
Dave K - Nov 19, 2002 11:16 pm
Route Climbed: East Slope Date Climbed: August 2002I climbed it with my friend Mike. Despite an early start from the Portal, we did not arrive back at his truck until after midnight because of some unexpected delays. Still, it was a great day in a beautiful area. We had hoped to climb Mts. LeConte and Corcoran that day, too.