Mount Smuts

Overview

Fun, difficult and exposed scrambling on slabby, steep, limestone ribs via the South Ridge. This Mountain is called one of the most difficult ascents in the Canadian Rockies Scrambles guide. After climbing a few of the routes in this wonderful guide I was curious about this statement. It is a good description with some of the moves on this Mountains South ridge in the low 5th class exposed range. You need to be an experienced climber/scrambler if doing this Mountain and if you have inexperienced people climbing this route with you, you should bring a rope for short belays through tricky sections. Many people have backed off this route and there have been rescues. The guide states that only a few people summit this mountain each year. There are several pitons evident on the ridge. The time to climb this Mountain is 6-9 hours. It is accessed from the Spray lakes road.

Getting There

Map 82 J/14 Spray lakes Reservoir. Drive to Mount Sharks/Engadine lodge access road on Smith-Dorrien Trail/Spray Lakes Road. This is approximately 38 km south of the Bow River Bridge in Canmore. Follow the road up past the Nordic center onto the the gravel Spray lakes road. You will have the East End of Rundle on your right and China Man's Peak on your left in the initial kilometers of this drive. Enjoy the Drive!!! When you arrive at the access road turn and drive west across across Smuts Creek and make the first left hand turn into a parking area(.9 km) From the parking area head south along the logging road. Follow the logging road south for about 1/2 an hour. When the road drops towards Commonwealth creek. Turn right onto another logging road which becomes a trail which follows the right side of the creek. After an hour it opens up onto avalanche slopes and lush meadows. You will have The Fist on your right. The Mountain farther up on your right next to the Fist is Mount Smuts. At the head if this valley is Smuts pass which is the high saddle between Smuts and Birdwood. Head toward this saddle. Just before the saddle angle right toward and up a scree gully. It is here that you will access the South Ridge. The climbing will become clean, exhilarating and in some sections exposed. Follow this fine ridge to the summit. The scambles book talks about an easier decent route down the North Ridge if and when it is dry. I am not sure where this decent starts. I down climbed what I think was the north east ridge and ended up cutting onto the south face and down climbing miles of slabs. I don't recommend my version. It was exposed lose down climbing in the 5.6 range. Although the east face bowl had a lot of easy and clean limestone climbing.

Red Tape

As always be on the look out for Grizzly Bears. There have been some escalated problems with Grizzly in Canmore in the last years. With some of the local trails being closed. Besides this there is no red tape

When To Climb

Spray Lake Ranger Station. (403) 678-5533 Alberta Tourist Visitor Centre (403) 678-5277 The Alpine Club of Canada (403) 678-3200, ext 1 weather office or (403) 762-2088 for weather conditions The summer months. July on or whenever the snow is gone.

Camping

There are campgrounds in the area. Spray Lakes West Shore Campground has 50 sites (403) 591-7226 There is also the Alpine Club of Canada lodge with rooms and excellent facilities of 19$ CDN a night. The Alpine Club of Canada (403) 678-3200, ext 1 Engadine Lodge is a good base camp as well as Canmore and Banff being beautiful towns Engadine Lodge Box 40025 Canmore, Alberta T1W 3H9 Tel.: (403) 678-4080 Fax: 678-4020 E mail: lodge@mountengadine.com Web address www.mountengadine.com