Mount Stuart Climber's Log

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Kresser

Kresser - Jul 21, 2014 12:38 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2014

Cascade Couloir  Sucess!

Car to Car via the Cascade Couloir in a day. The couloir itself was a lot easier than I thought. There wasn't nearly as much loose rock and scree as I was expecting, although a helmet would be recommended still. Still snow above 8,500' to the false summit, but didn't need to go on any snow from the false summit to the true summit. Went too far east on our descent and ended up in the wrong gully (followed a climber's trail down, beware!) Could have been done in hiking/trail running shoes with some microspikes with an ice axe. Great day!

MattDurkee

MattDurkee - Jun 8, 2014 12:57 pm Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2012

Cascadian Couloir  Sucess!

Left car at ~3:30 AM, back to car at ~8:00 PM. Fought off a mtn. goat with my ice ax. Took left scramble around false summit and then up. Came back down standard route off false summit. Glissaded down from false summit. River running high.

Arkitekt

Arkitekt - Sep 26, 2013 1:44 am Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2013

Cascadian Colour  Sucess!

One Day Climb. Camped at the trailhead and Started at 7am. Hiked up and over and finished the hike at 6pm. Very tough hike about 13 miles RT by my GPS.

After crossing Ingalls Cre

ek on the way up we went Right (SE) along the Ingalls Creek Trail for about .25 miles to a cairn leading up the colour. The brush was a bit rough at first but it worked. On the way down we bypassed that by finding some other route. Couldn't explain it if I tried. It fizzled out and we walked straight through the brush downhill to the trail. Ending up just about 100 feet from the intersection of the trail going back. I don't think I would pick to try the more direct route up even if I could find it. It was a bit steep and the slopes were vegetated.

bedellympian

bedellympian - Sep 15, 2013 1:11 am Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2013

CNR  Sucess!

Complete North Ridge w/ Gendarme (V 5.9 28 pitches). Cloud cover resulting in low vis and some rain and snow on route led to unplanned bivy on ledge above Gendarme. A great route, long with a mix of wandery low 5th and sustained 5.8/9 climbing.

Mooner

Mooner - Sep 1, 2013 11:29 am

Up I Go

2016-08-14 via Complete North Ridge with Gendarme. Soloed entire upper ridge except Gendarme pitches with Sam
08/27/13 via Complete North Ridge with Gendarme bypass because to started raining just before getting to it.

Dundeel

Dundeel - Jul 22, 2013 10:29 pm Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2013

Cascadian  Sucess!

Two night camp on Ingalls Creek. Wonderful mountain with good weather.

OwenT

OwenT - Apr 2, 2013 1:09 pm Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2012

Big Mountain  Sucess!

My first of hopefully many major Cascade peaks.

kylefrowe - Jan 3, 2013 12:48 pm Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2010

Success  Sucess!

Awesome views steep scree and snow

juneauhiker

juneauhiker - Nov 9, 2012 11:16 am

Cascadian  Sucess!

A great hike in a beautiful place.

tcingrum

tcingrum - Sep 19, 2012 10:56 pm

Stuart  Sucess!

Cascadian route. Lots of loose rock and dirt.

Diggler

Diggler - Sep 16, 2012 7:47 pm Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2012

complete N ridge- finally!!!  Sucess!

WHAT a route!! When no opportunities opened up with friends, finally found a willing & able partner.

Camped near Ingalls Lake by meadows (would have just gone for the climb as a day climb in retrospect- additional hike back to camp after ascent SUCKED!), which provided stunning views of SW face of Stuart (& far too many obnoxious nocturnal goats).

Started from camp @ 5.20. Still a ways to go before reaching start of route (including a few sketchy snowfield crossings). Off & climbing finally @ 10.05. Belayed first 4 or so pitches of lower ridge before simul'ing to notch. P2 hardest of lower buttress. Simul'ed to Great Gendarme (seems like a misnomer- instead of climbing around the thing, you go straight up it). Successful roshambo meant I got the lead- phenomenal pitch (best of climb, in my opinion)!!! Linked strenuous lieback w/ "off-width" (actually a fist crack for normal-sized folks), then climbed ~50' above that to a 'bivy'/belay ledge. Dropped my brand new camera from notch above the gendarme, which SUCKED :( Made haste after that, as time growing nigh(t)- finally summited @ 20.05. LONG & fatigueing descent down Cascadian Couloir ensued (shitty-non-existent trails to Stuart Pass, then back to camp added to frustrations).

Finally back @ camp @ 3.06- WHAT a day, mountain, climb!!! Thanks, Mark!

droot

droot - Sep 16, 2012 6:11 am Date Climbed: Sep 14, 2012

Cascadian  Sucess!

Climbed via the Cascadian Couloir. Nothing major until the summit ridge is reached, and then some fun class 3 to the summit.
Fires were burning everywhere at the time, and we could see lots of smoke from the summit.

Came down the same way, making our way quickly digging into the soft sand.

kevinsa

kevinsa - Sep 15, 2012 9:25 pm Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2009

Mt. Stuart  Sucess!

Got off route a little bit, but managed to salvage it. Would like to come back when there are a few less clouds.

JoelSkok

JoelSkok - Sep 13, 2012 9:51 pm Date Climbed: Aug 14, 1977

West Ridge route  Sucess!

Loved the experience with my old Boy Scout leader Jack Kinney, Eddie Bolton and his girlfriend. Route finding was an issue but we at last prevailed. Some T-storms in the two days we were on the mountain but we found overhangs to stave off the hard rains. Pace was easy for me, didn't feel challenged.

Vitaliy M.

Vitaliy M. - Aug 19, 2012 3:06 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2012

Full North Ridge  Sucess!

Car to Car full north ridge with the gendarme. Out from Stuart Lake TH.

ClimberCrabs

ClimberCrabs - Jul 18, 2012 3:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2011

Cascadian Couloir in the heat  Sucess!

Climbed Stuart via the Cascadian Couloir on a very hot weekend. Route was easy enough until we hit the snowfield below the false summit which was snowier than usual and quite slick. Made it up and over to the actual summit and enjoyed a nice nap. Navigating down the snowfield was dicey and one member of our party slipped but was able to arrest before the rocks. Had an awesome campsite in the meadow, probably the best part of the whole trip!

sgiles

sgiles - Apr 12, 2012 12:58 pm Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2010

Upper North Ridge  Sucess!

Classic climb, amazing exposure and views. We came in from the Ingalls Lake trailhead and went up and over goat pass. bivyed above the glacier and started climbing the next day. A storm rolled in while we were climbing and we ended up bivying on a ledge above the gendarme for 2 nights waiting for it to pass. When it passes, it was gorgeous. Views to the Olympic mountains and a great story

belowfellow

belowfellow - Feb 10, 2012 4:56 pm Date Climbed: Jun 11, 2011

CC  Sucess!

early season, via CC. fun day.

Josh Lewis

Josh Lewis - Oct 2, 2011 12:29 am Date Climbed: Jul 31, 2011

A decent hike  Sucess!

This was a decent hike although the CC would have been nicer if there was snow in it. Oh well, at least had some nice views before the clouds came in when we summited.

relic

relic - Sep 18, 2011 11:06 am

Years ago  Sucess!

Catching up on logs I should've signed years ago. This mountain is an icon, visible from most places in the North Cascades. Great, solid rock on most routes.

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