Page Type: | Mountain/Rock |
---|---|
Lat/Lon: | 40.19000°N / 4.61°W |
Elevation: | 6161 ft / 1878 m |
Also denominated "Riscos del Tío Pasito", it is a mountain of granitic rock located in the solid oriental of the Sierra of Gredos. It is part of the denominated Sierra de Villarejo thats understands from the cliffs of the Puerto del Pico (El Torozo) until the Puerto of Serranillos. The Riscos de Villarejo are located concretely in the slope S.O. of the Summit of the Morenos ones (1.878 m) between the Collado del Boquerón and the Port of Serranillos, being part of the head of the Gta. of the Placejo and in the finish municipal of Villarejo del Valle. It is a group of towers and needles that present excellent possibilities for the escalade, with routes of 150 and 200 meters of longitude on a magnify granite. They highlight among other their three main summits: The Aguja de las Cuatro Puntas, Risco Gordo or Punta del Boquerón and the Torre de Villarejo. This escalade area is one of those but well-known in the Iberian peninsula together with Los Galayos and El Torozo.
Rock Type: Granite |
The half height is of: 150 meters |
The maximum height is of: 200 meters |
Number of Routes: 150 |
Routes until V: 18% |
Routes of V+ at 6c+: 66% |
Routes of 7a at 7c+: 16% |
Routes of eighth: 0% |
Better Time: Spring and autumn |
To access to this mountain we will have to arrive until the Puerto del Pico, located in the km 55 of the national highway 502 in Avila, once there we will lower for the forest road that there is in the curve of Villarejo. You also consents in a way but direct to this mountain from San Esteban's town, ascending approximately for the highway that drives to the Port of Serranillos, to 1 km of the port in the first curve of the road, a road that will take us in 30 or 45 minutes to the base of the walls after the hill that descends of Los Morenos ones, going back leaves.
From Madrid:
By car:
By the N-V until Talavera de la Reina we take the deviation for Arenas de San Pedro’s c-502 direction until arriving to Ramacastañas, where we continue to the right until arriving to La Villa de Mombeltran, where we will take the first deviation to the right that takes us to San Esteban, where we will continue for the highway of the Serranillos port until arriving to a one km of the port..
By bus:
Company La Sepulvedana. daily buses (13,67 € go and turn). from the south station of buses
08:30 | 10:00 | 13:00 | 16:00 | 17:00 | 18:00 | 19:30 | 20:30 |
This bus leaves us in Arenas de San Pedro where taken another that takes us to Cuevas del Valle and San Esteban. ( price note 1 € single going. )
11:00 | 15:00 | 15:15 | 19:15 | 21:45 |
Schedules of friday. For other days to consult in 91-5304800 or in www.lasepulvedana.es.
Once in Cuevas del Valle we will go up walking for the roman roadway or taken a taxi until the Puerto del Pico.
From Avila:
By car:
For C-502 o'clock directly until the Puerto del Pico.
By bus:
Company Muñoz travel. from the bus station of Avila. We descend in Puerto del Pico, and we will lower for the forest road of Villarejo.
15:00 daily |
17:30 friday (single from October to June) |
Forbidden the one camped free. One can make vibouac in the sources that there is going up the Puerto de Serranillos and in the base of the mountain. Loose animals cannot be taken. Certain roads cannot be climbed in time of breeding of birds (the forest guard of the area will inform us) and mainly NOT TO LEAVE GARBAGE, to maintain the clean mountain.
The best time in the year to climb this mountain is the one understood between the months of May and October, although this I finish September it is the suitable one for the escalade due to the absence of rains and to the soft temperatures.
Gradient of temperatures:
Stockings Temperatures | Extreme Temperatures | |
Winter | 5ºC ~ 8ºC | 36ºC ~ 44ºC |
Summer | 22ºC ~ 25ºC | -6ºC ~ -8ºC |
Camping site of Prados Abiertos. Second category. Open the whole year. Located in the C-502, km. 72. Tf: 920386061. Of extension 2,5 km2, good situation, calm place, terraces, Floor something hard with grass, Many hoist, Natural bathroom to 1 km.
Capacity and infrastructure Parceled camping site Offers you seem them for season, It accepts caravans, each parcel is of 60/100 m2 Aparetaments: 7 Bungalows: 4 Locations: 105 Showers of cold water: 17 Showers of hot water: 17 Washbasins of cold water: 37 Washbasins of hot water: 10 Laundry of cold water: 16 Laundry of hot water: 3 Sink of cold water: 8 Sink of hot water: 9 | Basic services Safe, Telephones, Plugs, butane Bombonas, WC, Chemical WC, Drainage of Caravans, Washer, |
Comforts: Infantile Paque, Supermarket, Bar, Restaurant, Barbecue, | |
Activities: Pool, infantile Pool, Tennis, Rent of bicycles, | |
Rates: Mature night: 3.00 Eurus Boy night: 2.00 Eurus, Car night: 2,70 Eurus, Moto night: 2,35 Eurus, Caravan night: 3.20 Eurus, Spread night: 3.20 Eurus, Autocaravan night: 5.00 Eurus, Electricity night: 2,50 Eurus, Observations: It accepts cards, Visa, Master Card, American Express,... You tariff parcels: I price it parcels: 10.10 Eurus, It includes: Car, Caravan, Electricity, 0 adults, 0 children, |
In the mountain this forbidden the one camped free. We can sleep outdoors in the base of the mountain. (bivouacs).
The same as their neighboring mountain, "El Torozo", this mountain presents enormous possibilities as for the escalade in rock, offering numerous routes of different difficulties and heights.
In this section we will describe each one of the needles or picks that understand this mountain with a chart of their respective routes, which will go accompanied by an explanatory graph of these, which will call you the same as the chart in question
TORRE DE VILLAREJO CARA SUR
Nº | Name | Long. | Difficulty | First Ascension |
1 | Car Crash | 130 meters | L1:6b,V+, L2: V+, L3:III+, L4:V,V+, L5:V, III | Alberto Sepúlveda y Javier Martín |
2 | Sangre de Dragón | 70 meters | L1:6a, L2:7a+,6a, L3:6a, 6c+, L4:IV+, L5 IV+, III+ | 1993. Eladio Vicente y Carlos Puentes |
3 | Durán | 140 meters | ||
4 | Eva | 120 meters | L1:6a, V+, L2:IV, L3:IV, L4:III, L5 III | 1983. Miguel Castilla y Ramón Pérez Mata-Mala |
5 | Super evax (fina y segura) | 75 meters | L1:6a, L2:6a, 6b | 1992. Gabriel Martín y Goli Serranoi |
6 | El algodón no engaña | 120 meters | L1:6a+, 6b+, L2:6a+,7a, V+, L3:6a+,6a | 1988. Javier Talavera, Gabriel Martín y Carlos Cuesta. |
7 | El Lúbrico crónico | 120 meters | L1:6a, 6b, L2:6a+,6b+, V+, L3:6a+,6a | 1988. Javier Talavera, Gabriel Martín, Carlos Cuesta y Alejandro Díaz |
8 | Dingo | 120 meters | L1:V, V+, L2:V,V+, L3:IV, L4: IV | 1981. Gabriel Martín y Emilio |
9 | Francisco Galán | 120 meters | L1:V+, V, L2:V+, L3:IV, L4: IV, L5: III | 1979. Gabriel Martín, Guillermo Mateo y Máximo Murcia |
10 | Emiliano el chachi | 120 meters | L1:V+, L2: V+, L3:6a, 6c, L4: V | 1983. Santiago Hernandez, Luis Fernando Cajal y Fernando Pinar |
11 | Guirles-Marchal | 120 meters | L1:6a, V-, L2:IV+, V, L3:V, IV+, L4:V, L5: V | 1981. Daniel Guirles y Manolo Marchal |
12 | Lipotitos flotantes | 140 meters | L1:6a+, 6b, L2:6a, V+, L3:6a+ | 1992. Luis Fernando Cajal, Fernando Pinar y Raul Gonzalez |
13 | Via incordia | 180 meters | L1:6b, L2:V+, L3:IV, L4: 6a, L5: 6b+, L6: V+, L7: IV | 1985. Luis Fernando Cajal, Fernando Pinar y Santiago Hernandez |
14 | Polvora en los dedos | 180 meters | L1:III+, L2:V, L3:6a, L4: V+, L5: V+, L6: V+, L7: V, L8: V | 1985. Gabriel Martin, Joaquín Colorado, Cristobal Real y Juanjo Hernandez |
15 | Como me gustan las uñas de tus pies | 180 meters | L1:6b, L2:6a+, L3:V+, L4: 6c, L5: 6a+, L6: IV+, L7: V+ | 1985. Gabriel Martín, Juanjo Fernandez y Belen Molina |
16 | Te eo Helao | 40 meters | L1: 6a, 6b+ | 1992. Gabriel Martín y Teodoro Diaz |
17 | Coney Island | 180 meters | L1:IV+, V+, L2:IV+, L3:III, L4: IV, L5: V | 1979. Francisco Aguado y Juan Lupion |
18 | Tierra de nadie | 180 meters | L1:7a, L2:6b, L3:6a, 6c, L4: 6a+, L5: 6a+, L6: 6a, L7: 6a | 1993. Gabriel Martín, José Luis Lázaro y Carlos Cabeza |
19 | Esteban Altieri | 180 meters | L1:IV, IV+, L2:V, L3:V, L4: V+, L5: IV, L6: IV+, L7: IV | 1980. Gabriel Martín, Ramón Ladra, Guillermo Mateo, Felix de Pablo y Francisco Murcia |
20 | Jack Daniels | 180 meters | L1:V+, L2:6a+, L3:6b+, L4: 6a | 1992. Gabriel Martín, Javier Casavilla, Goli Serrano y Belen Heras |
21 | La Bella Durmiente | 45 meters | L1: 6b,6a | 1992. Gabriel Martín y Goli Serrano |
22 | La bestia rugiente | 45 meters | L1: 6b,6a | 1992. Gabriel Martín y Roberto Herrainz |
23 | Via del Mille | 180 meters | L1:V+, L2:6a, L3:6a, L4: 6b, L5: 6a+, L6: 7a | 1984. Gabriel Martín y Joaquín Colorado |
24 | Julay Jhan | 25 meters | 7b | 1992. Gabriel Martín |
25 | Directa de los Macarenos | 180 meters | L1:6a, L2:V+, L3:6b, L4: 6a | 1992. Gabriel Martín, Chema Mancebo y Teodoro Díaz |
AGUJA DE LAS 4 PUNTAS. WEST FACE
Nº | Name | Long. | Difficulty | First Ascension |
1 | La diagonal | 150 meters | III | 1978. Gabriel Martín |
2 | Vía Oeste | 150 meters | L1:III, L2: IV+, V, L3: V, IV, III, L4: III, L5: IV- | 1977. Gabriel Martín, Francisco Galán, Francisco Murcia, y Máximo Murcia |
3 | María Luisa | 150 meters | L1: III, IV+, L2: V+, L3: V, L4: V, V+, L5: III+ | 1984. Gabriel Martín y Miguel Castilla |
AGUJA DE LOS MORENOS. South FACE
Nº | Name | Long. | Difficulty | First Ascension |
1 | El muñeco diabólico | 110 meters | L1:V-, IV+, V, L2:V, L·: IV, V- | 1993. Gabriel Martín y Roberto Herrainz |
2 | Natalia Aranda | 110 meters | L1:IV+, V, L2:V+, V | 1993. Gabriel Martín y Carlos Cuesta |
AGUJA DE LOS MORENOS. South-West FACE
Nº | Name | Long. | Difficulty | First Ascension |
1 | Via del Moñón | 110 meters | L1:,IV, L2:IV+, V, L3: IV- | 1984. Gabriel Martín y Jaime Garrigos |
2 | Pabellón geriatrico | 80 meters | V+ | 1993. Gabriel Martín, Julio Barthe, Natalia de la Torre y Javier Casavilla |
3 | El lapidador | 80 meters | V+, IV- | 1993. Gabriel Martín, Julio Barthe y Javier Casavilla |
2ª AGUJA DE LOS MORENOS. South FACE
Nº | Name | Long. | Difficulty | First Ascension |
1 | Cuesta Mollano | 100 meters | L1:,IV, L2:IV-, L3: V+, III+, L4: III+ | 1984. Gabriel Martín y Jaime Garrigos |
2 | Diedro perona | 100 meters | L1:V, L2: V+, L3: V, L4: 6b+ | 1993. Gabriel Martín y Cristobal Real |
3 | El balcón de tu escote | 100 meters | 6a, V+ | 1993. Gabriel Martín y Goli Serrano |
4 | Sobrino porter | 100 meters | V | 1993. Rafael Fanegas, Daniel Alvarez y Roberto Herrainz |
5 | Saneamientos zapata | 100 meters | V, 6b+ | 1993. Rafael Fanegas y David Alvarez |
AGUJA DE LOS CALIFAS
Nº | Name | Long. | Difficulty | First Ascension |
1 | Ben-al-katre | 70 meters | L1:6b+,6b, L2: 7a+, 6b+ | 1994. Gabriel Martín y Carlos Cuesta |
2 | Ayatola rasca bola | 80 meters | L1:IV+, V-, L2:IV+ | 1993. Gabriel Martín y Roberto Herrainz |
3 | Aladino frota fino | 90 meters | L1: IV, L2: 6a, L3: III | 1994. Gabriel Martín y Roberto Herrainz |
PUNTA AMPARO
Nº | Name | Long. | Difficulty | First Ascension |
1 | Octopussy | 90 meters | L1:6b+, L2: 7b | Alberto Sepúlveda, Gabriel Martín y Francisco Toboso |
2 | Patético Mariachi | 90 meters | L1:6b+, L2:6a+ | 1994. Miguel Angel Lozano y Gabriel Martín |
3 | Los cantos de cuenterbury | 110 meters | L1: IV+, 7a, 7b, L2: V, L3: V+, 6a | Alberto Sepúlveda y Gabriel Martín |
4 | Espolón sur, via los jinetes del viento | 110 meters | 1993. Gabriel Martín y Javier Casavillas | |
5 | Irene Castilla | 110 meters | 1993. Miguel Castilla y Gabriel Martín | |
6 | Espolón Miguel Angel Castilla | 60 meters | 1993. Miguel Castilla y Gabriel Martín | |
7 | Variante de salida | 60 meters | 1993. Gabriel Martín y Roberto Herrainz | |
8 | Variante Gabi | 100 meters | 1981. Carlos Cuesta, Natalia Aranda y Pablo Galán. | |
9 | Realidad virtual | 160 meters | L1:IV, V, L2:6a+, L3:V- | 1994. Alberto Sepúlveda y Vicente de Castro |
10 | Un cálido aniversario | 120 meters | L1:IV+, V, L2: 6a , L3:6a, V, L4: I+V | 1993. Carlos Cuesta y Gabriel Martín |
11 | Galán Rabago | 110 meters | L1:III, L2:IV+, V, L3:V, 6a+ | 1993. Miguel Castilla y Gabriel Martín |
12 | Espolón Gabriel Martín | 100 meters | L1: IV+, L2: V, IV+, L3: V+ | 1993. Miguel Castilla y Gabriel Martín |
PUNTA SOLEDAD
Nº | Name | Long. | Difficulty | First Ascension |
1 | El sobrino | 75 meters | L1:IV+, L2: V-, V | 1993. Gabriel Martín y Roberto Herrainz |
2 | El Principe de las tinieblas | 75 meters | L1:IV+, IV, L2: V-, V | 1993. Gabriel Martín, Carlos Cuesta, Javier Casavilla y José Carlos Ramirez |
3 | Javier Galán | 75 meters | L1: V, IVL2: V, L3: V, III | 1993. Gabriel Martín, Roberto Herrainz, Pablo Galán y Carlos Cuesta |
EL YELMITO. South FACE
Nº | Name | Long. | Difficulty | First Ascension |
1 | El Chamizo | 150 meters | L1: V-, L2: V+, L3: V, L4: IV, L5: IV | 1993. Alberto Gil y Eduardo Tejerina |
2 | Rio Bravo | 120 meters | L1:IV+, L2:IV+ L3:IV, L4: IV- | 1984. Gabriel Martín y Juanjo Fernandez |
3 | Hernández-Marchal | 120 meters | L1: IV+, L2: V, L3: V, L4: III | 1983. Santiago Hernández y Manolo Marchal |
4 | Vía de la niebla | 150 meters | L1: IV+, V, IV+, L2: IV+, V, L3: V | 1983. Gabriel Martín, Santiago Hernández, Manolo Marchal y Francisco Galán |
5 | Lubna | 150 meters | L1: IV, V, L2: 6a, L3: IV+, L4: IV | 1985. Gabriel Martín, Belén Molina y Juanjo Fernandez |
6 | Hombres Brubster | 130 meters | L1: 6a, V, L2: IV+, 6a, L3:6a, V+, V | 1993. Gabriel Martín y Javier Casavillas |
7 | Acción mutante | 110 meters | L1: 6a, 6c, L2: 6b, 6b+, L3: V+ | 1993. Gabriel Martín y Carlos Cuesta |
8 | El vengador tóxico | 90 meters | V+ | 1993. Gabriel Martín y Carlos Cuesta |
9 | Chicho terremoto | 90 meters | IV+, V+ | 1993. Gabriel Martín y Javier Casavillas |
10 | Bola de dragón | Routes of among 35 and 65 meters opened up in 1994-1993 of difficulties understood among 6a, 6b open V+ fundamentally for Gabriel Martín, Carlos Cuesta, Roberto Herrainz | ||
11 | Son Gohanda | |||
12 | Goku | |||
13 | Rey vegeta | |||
14 | Vegeta | |||
15 | Picolo | |||
16 | Krilin | |||
17 | Yamsha | |||
18 | Maestro Mutenrroy | |||
19 | Via este | |||
20 | Via normal |
This is a brief description of the different climbing degrees according to different countries and their conversion factors. A road is delimited according to a scale of very precise difficulty. The different difficulties appear as the escalade evolves sportly. Each school, each country has elaborated its own scale of difficulties that can translate himself in a scale of degrees. However it is not necessary to follow this scale with all accuracy, the gradation of an escalade road is not but that an evaluation of the wall, therefore this means in it finishes instance it is to the climber's service.
Australian | UIAA | French | YDS | NCCS | UK.Adj. | UK.Tech. | RSA | Saxon | Czech | Norw. | Swed. | V-grade |
10 | 1 | 1 | 5.2 | easy | I | |||||||
11 | 2 | 2 | 5.3 | m | II | |||||||
12 | 3 | 3 | 5.4 | d | III | |||||||
4 | 4 | 5.5 | vhd | IV | ||||||||
13 | E | |||||||||||
5- | 5.6 | ms | V | |||||||||
5 | ||||||||||||
14 | 5 | 5.7 | F7 | 4a | e1
e2
e3
e4
e5
e6
e7
e8
e9 e10
| F1 | VI | 5- | 5- | |||
15 | 5+ | 5+ | 4b | VIIa | 5 | 5 | ||||||
5.8 | F8 | F2 | ||||||||||
16 | 6- | 4c | 6 | 5+ | 5+ | V0- | ||||||
VIIb | ||||||||||||
17 | 5.9 | F9 | 5a | F3 | 7 | V0 | ||||||
6 | 6a
6a+ | 6- | 6- | |||||||||
18 | VIIc | |||||||||||
6+ | 5.10a | F10 | 5b | G1 | 7a | |||||||
19 | 6 | 6 | ||||||||||
5.10b | VIIIa | V0+ | ||||||||||
20 | 7- | 5c | G2 | 7b | ||||||||
6b 6b+ | 5.10c | 6+ | 6+ | |||||||||
21 | 7 | 5.10d | F11 | VIIIb | V1 | |||||||
5.11a | G3 | 7c | 7- | |||||||||
22 | 7+ | 6c
6c+ | VIIIc | |||||||||
6a | 7- | V2 | ||||||||||
23 | 5.11b | H1 | ||||||||||
8- | F13 | IXa | V3 | |||||||||
24 | 5.11c | 7 | ||||||||||
7a
7a+ | H3 | |||||||||||
25 | 8 | 5.11d | IXb | 7 | ||||||||
6b | 7+ | |||||||||||
5.12a | V4 | |||||||||||
26 | 8+ | F14 | H3 | IXc | 7+ | |||||||
5.12b | 8- | |||||||||||
7b 7b+ | V5 | |||||||||||
9- | 5.12c | F15 | Xa | |||||||||
27 | 8 | 8- | V6 | |||||||||
6c | ||||||||||||
9 | 7c
7c+ | 5.12d | I1 | Xb | ||||||||
28 | 8 | V7 | ||||||||||
5.13a | F16 | V8 | ||||||||||
29 | 9+ | I2 | Xc | 8+ | ||||||||
5.13b | 7a | |||||||||||
30 | 8a 8a+ | V9 | ||||||||||
10- | I3 | 9- | 8- | |||||||||
31 | 5.13c | V10 | ||||||||||
32 | 10 | 8b 8b+ | 5.13d | J | 9- | V11 | ||||||
9 | ||||||||||||
33 | 5.14a | |||||||||||
10+ | 9 | |||||||||||
8c
8c+ | 5.14b | 9+ | V12 | |||||||||
11- | V13 | |||||||||||
34 | 5.14c | 9+ | ||||||||||
35 | 11 | 5.14d | V14 | |||||||||
9a | ||||||||||||
It will be of great utility the following internet link, where besides being able to see the different escalade degrees in the different scales, we will have an explanation of each one of the scales as well as a dictionary of escalade terms.
"Climbing dictionary and climbing ratings and grades"
1.- La Sierra de Gredos
ISBN: 8487746446
Author: Gabriel Martín
Date: 1994
Editorial: Desnivel
Price: 11,00 €
Language: Spanish
2.- Crónicas de Gredos
ISBN: 490000
Author: Juan Andrés Feliú Suárez
Price: 18,21 €
Language: Spanish
3.- Cuadernos de Montaña
ISBN: 8484600165
Author: Eduardo Martínez de Pisón
Date: 2000
Editorial: Temas de Hoy
Price: 14,42 €
Language: Spanish
4.- Gredos. Guía de excursiones y ascensiones.
ISBN: 8495368110
Author: Carlos Frías
Date: 2001
Editorial: El senderista
Price: 16,50 €
Language: Spanish
5.-Guía de la Sierra de Gredos
ISBN: 100001
Author: M.A. Vidal
Price: 7,81 €
Language: Spanish
6.- Rutas para descubrir la Sierra de Gredos
ISBN: 8481830747
Author: Carlos Manuel Martín Jiménez
Date: 2000
Editorial: Ámbito Viejo
Price: 9,62 €
Language: Spanish