Rinderhorn

Overview

The Rinderhorn is an elegant pyramidal peak rising above the Daubensee and Gemmipass in the western Bernese Alps. The north and west side of the peak are predominantly snow and ice and the other aspects are rock.

The mountain is most frequently climbed via the North Ridge which is a light snow and ice tour with slopes up to 43 degrees. This is an excellent climb for those building their alpine skills and in the spring and winter is frequently done on skis. This route is included in BERNER OBERLAND die 100 Schönsten Touren by Hans Grossen with Gaston Rébuffat (unfortunately out of print).

An excellent description and trip report with photos can be viewed at: Rinderhorn Hike

A. & J. Grichting and G. Studer made the first ascent of the Rinderhorn on 6 September 1854.

Getting There

The southern and shortest approach is via Gemmipass from Leukerbad (about one hour from the top of the Gemmibahn). From the north, one can either hike or ride the lift from Kandersteg (about two hours from the top of the Sunnbüel Lift of Kandersteg.)

TOPO MAP LINK: .

Routes Overview

There have been about 10 routes climbed and described on the Rinderhorn. Of these, only the normal route (North Ridge - see Overview Section) is recommended for the ascent. There is extreme rock fall danger and/or very breakable rock on all the other routes except one. The west ridge is apparently fairly safe from rock fall, but is described as being somewhat tedious to ascend and is recommended in descent only.

There are four routes on the northeast flank of the peak. All are rated S or SS and not recommended because of rock fall danger.


The east ridge (rated S) can be climbed over very breakable loose rock in two to three hours from Zackenpass.

There is one route on the south face and two on the west flank that are not recommended because of rock fall danger.

Hut

The peak can be climbed in one very long day from either Kandersteg or Leukerbad, but most parties opt to stay at the Berghotel Schwarenbach

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Images

View Rinderhorn Image Gallery - 26 Images