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13087 Hits
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81.84% Score
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14 Votes
Page Type:
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Mountain/Rock |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.15900°N / 10.88060°E |
Activities:
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Trad Climbing |
Season:
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Summer |
Elevation:
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9333 ft / 2845 m |
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Overview
Nice rock mountain between Cima Tosa and Brenta BassaIt has 3 walls and 2 ridges
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Known almost only for its S vertical wall coloured in grey, yellow and black and well highlighted to the ones walking on the path between the Rifugio Agostini (Ambiez) and Rifugio Pedrotti.
The N side is a huge overhanging wall, very difficult, up to little more than half height, then becomes less steeper and not difficult but made of bad quality rock.
routes overview
 | South wall, 280m, wonderful yellow and black rock : amusing and created to be climbed on this wall 3 routes are worth to spend half a day - via Videsott : (III+/IV) - easy and very amusing (route 95m on the photo) - fessura Giordani : (V) - very fine - the shortest to the top (route 95n on the photo) - fessura Detassis : (V-) - very fine and exposed (route 95o on the photo) West ridge, easy, normally used for the descent |
 | North wall, 600m (450 from the ledge) , convex and wide, hard to climb - NNW wall - Pfeiffer-Reiff : rock and ice, difficult and dangerous ... aware - via Cesare Danese (Steinkotter) : (VI, A3) (route 95d on the photo) - via Trieste (Migliorini) : (V/VI) (route 95e on the photo) East wall, 250m, yellow and narrow in a strange and wild ambient - via Disertori-Friederichsen-Graffer : (IV) fine and amusing ESE ridge, only for descent the NNW channel (canalone Merzbacher) brings to the Bocca Margherita (2720m) It is not difficult, looks fine but is very dangerous |
Getting There
for all climbs the starting point are Rifugio Brentei (2182m) orRifugio Pedrotti (2491 m)
you can get it starting from Madonna di Campiglio (1515 m)
by car or taxi-service to Rifugio Valsinella (1513 m).
on foot : path 317 - to Rif. Casinei,
then path 318
2 h walk from Vallesinella you get the Rif.Brentei
in 1 more hour, along the wonderful path of the Bocca di Brenta you can get the Rif.Pedrotti
Red Tape
natural park !When To Climb
starting from May for the south wallJuly - August - September for the north wall
Camping
Sant' Antonio di Mavignolaif you use a tent near the Brentei hut (a lot of wonderful meadows there) you'll get no problems at all :)
near the Rif.Pedrotti meadows are little but you can do the same thing :)
1 Routes