Pizzo di Coca-Punta Scaiss-Pizzo Redorta

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Overview

This section of mountains, is the higest part of Orobie Alps.

Which is situated between lake of Como on the west, Valtellina on the north and Adamello group on the east.
Pizzo di Coca, Punta Scaiss and Pizzo Redorta, are the only 3 summits over 3000 meters in this area.

Not high enough to be famous, but quite wild and dangerous, expecially the Punta Scaiss, which is a rocky mountain only for skilled climbers.

The south side of them, is a huge rocky spurs, heading the valle Seriana.
Instead the north side is less vertical but covered in same area by very small glaciers, going smaller every year.

The 3 summits are basically part of the same mountain, divided in two sections by a pass called passo di Coca(2645 slm), that's connect the north side to the south.

Getting There

This mountain section can be easily reached from Valtellina(north), and Val Seriana(south).

Valtellina is a very wide valley, where the main village is Sondrio.
It's possible to go through this valley by car, buses and train (from Milan and the rest of Italy.

Val Seriana is not very big but easily traveled by car and buses.
Many paths go across this area; the most important is the "Altavia delle Orobie".
If came from Valtellina, the two usefull places where leave the car are Agneda in Valcaronella (those for Scaiss and Redorta area), and Arigna in Val d'Arigna( for Coca area).
If you came from Val Seriana, the villages is Fiumenero(for Brunone hut), and Valbondione(for Coca and Curo' hut).

When To Climb

During the summer this area is plenty of tourists and mountaineers.
During the winter they are very lonely and wild. Probably because not suitable for skyers.
Only on the north side or the Pizzo Redorta have slopes for this discipline.

How to climb

PIZZO DI COCA:
From north:
-Resnati bivac-couloir Marovin-1000m-AD/AD+
From west:
-Coca pass-via del Dente-400m-AD
From south:
-Coca hut-normal route-1100m-3/4hours-EE
-Curo' hut-normal route-1100m-4hours-EE

PIZZO REDORTA:
From north:
-Manbretti hut-glacier Scais-1000-3/4hours-F+/PD
From south:
-Brunone hut-normal route-800m-E/PD

PUNTA SCAISS:
From north:
-Manbretti hut-glacier Porola-1000m-III/IV PD+/AD

Huts and Bivacs

North side:
-Refuge Manbretti-2003slm-
-Refuge O.Donati-2509slm
-Bivouac Resnati-1926slm
-Bivouac A.Corti-2504slm

South side:
-Refuge B.Brunone-2295slm
-Refuge Coca-1892slm
-Refuge Curo'-1895slm

Images

View Pizzo di Coca-Punta Scaiss-Pizzo Redorta Image Gallery - 58 Images