Exellent route description! When I climbed this in about 1990, I was amazed at the complexity of the route, for one that follows a single, straight ridge. We had to stop & refer to the guidebook a few times. Made me appreciate the perseverance and creativity of the first ascent team. Also made me grin all day.
Along with the topo, this is the best route description of Wolf's Head on the planet. The guidebooks don't even come close. If someone can't find the route after reading this, they need to stay home. :-)
No, thank YOU Sir :)
Hope it's useful & thanks for good word! Don't forget to bring Brutus Of Wyde's topo for NE Face rt. on Pingora if you're planning on that one (best topo for it!).
First, great page! Your info was very helpful on our climb.
On P8 I took the downclimb option as it looked like the thin crack petered out to face climbing. However, as I climbed up the chimney and looked back, I saw a nice flake that created a nice hand-fist crack that was invisible from the approaching side. Looked like a fun and protectable hand traverse. So perhaps you can adjust the description of this pitch? Knowing about this ahead of time would make for a more elegant and fun line!
Also, one bit of confusion on the descent info was the chute you descend for R3. You say it faces south. The chute faces west while the climber is facing south as one climbs into it. Also, knowing that it is a very short walk from the R2 before the downclimb would be helpful. We overshot the gully and had to come back!
Alan Ellis - Aug 18, 2004 12:51 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentThis is how a route should be done. Thanks for submitting!
rpc - Aug 18, 2004 1:02 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentThanks Alan!
I wish we could go back there this year.....not realistic unfortunately. Great area!
Eric Sandbo - Nov 19, 2004 2:38 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentExellent route description! When I climbed this in about 1990, I was amazed at the complexity of the route, for one that follows a single, straight ridge. We had to stop & refer to the guidebook a few times. Made me appreciate the perseverance and creativity of the first ascent team. Also made me grin all day.
Thanks for the write-up!
Alan Ellis - Nov 19, 2004 10:28 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentAlong with the topo, this is the best route description of Wolf's Head on the planet. The guidebooks don't even come close. If someone can't find the route after reading this, they need to stay home. :-)
rpc - Nov 19, 2004 1:06 pm - Hasn't voted
Route CommentThank you gentlemen.
Not sure about "the best" but I've tried to achieve a high degree of "anality" :)
lloyd - Mar 18, 2008 1:02 am - Voted 10/10
ThanksWhat a great route description! We're planning on doing this August '08. This will be very helpful.
rpc - Mar 18, 2008 11:46 am - Hasn't voted
Re: ThanksNo, thank YOU Sir :)
Hope it's useful & thanks for good word! Don't forget to bring Brutus Of Wyde's topo for NE Face rt. on Pingora if you're planning on that one (best topo for it!).
PellucidWombat - Aug 26, 2012 7:50 pm - Voted 10/10
Correction to P8 & the DescentFirst, great page! Your info was very helpful on our climb.
On P8 I took the downclimb option as it looked like the thin crack petered out to face climbing. However, as I climbed up the chimney and looked back, I saw a nice flake that created a nice hand-fist crack that was invisible from the approaching side. Looked like a fun and protectable hand traverse. So perhaps you can adjust the description of this pitch? Knowing about this ahead of time would make for a more elegant and fun line!
Also, one bit of confusion on the descent info was the chute you descend for R3. You say it faces south. The chute faces west while the climber is facing south as one climbs into it. Also, knowing that it is a very short walk from the R2 before the downclimb would be helpful. We overshot the gully and had to come back!