Page Type:
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Mountain/Rock |
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Lat/Lon:
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44.16870°N / 114.6578°W |
Elevation:
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10353 ft / 3156 m |
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Overview
WCP-1 is the northernmost of a group of 10 peaks designated as the White Cloud Peaks (WCPs). These peaks are located in very remote and rugged country and are unique to any other range in the area as a large swath of brilliant white limestone covers a good chunk of this area, creating unbelievable settings.
WCP-1, standing at 10,353', is not high in elevation for the area but is a beautiful mountain. Its steep southeast face is composed of the aforementioned white limestone, although not as intense as nearby peaks, and creates a scenic backdrop to nearby Hoodoo Lake. Its west face is rugged and rises steeply from an unnamed lake and drainage below.
Very few people venture into the White Cloud Mountains. Most of those who do, go to climb Castle Peak, the range's highpoint. This is not because there is a lack of scenic beauty, it is most likely due to the fact that to reach almost any trailhead near the base of these peaks is a long drive from any airport and then a long drive up exhausting dirt roads. Of all the terrain that encompasses the perimeter of this range, only Stanley, population 100 or so, provides any facilities whatsoever. With that said, WCP-1 is very rarely, if ever climbed. A small rock cairn of 5-10 stones substantiates the fact if climbing this peak, don't expect to ever see anyone else.
Of all the mountains in the White Cloud Peaks group, this may be the easiest one to climb. The easiest route is also the most direct on class II terrain and can easily be done in half a day.
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Getting There
To access the Southeast Face Route (standard), from the nearest major airport in Hailey, Idaho, drive north on Highway 75 up and over Galena Summit to the small hamlet of Stanley at the base of the majestic Sawtooth in 73 miles. Continue past Stanley heading in an easterly direction on Highway 75 for about 25 more miles until reaching a small sign stating "Slate Creek Road".
Turn right (south) and follow this adequate dirt road upstream along the Salmon River for .7 miles until reaching a fork. Go left. This is the slate creek road, which ends after another 6 miles at some talus slopes. It is passable for a passenger vehicle but a four-wheel drive vehicle is recommended. It appears possible to keep driving around to the right on a very rough jeep trail but this soon dead ends at the beginning of a trail.
Red Tape
No permits required.
Along the Slate Creek Road approach, there are many private farms and ranches. This is remote Idaho country, ugly things may happen to those who tresspass.
As for most ranges in the state of Idaho, Mountain Goats are prevalent, keep your distance.
There is currently a bill before senate proposing to designate this area as wilderness, it does not appear likely this will happen.
The numerous mining activity around the base of WCP-1 is enticing to explore yet incredibly dangerous.
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When To Climb
This mountian may be climbed as soon as the area trailheads and roads open, which are usually quite late due to the high amount of snowfall that falls in the region yearly. Once open, snowfields should present no difficulty to experienced mountaineers with proper equipment.
A snow-free climb is probably by late-July.
Camping
Camping would be a good idea anywhere near WCP-1. The trailheads, as well as the lake basins below provide plenty of shelter from the elements for those wishing to camp.
Nearby campgrounds include, Mormon Bend, Riverside, Upper and Lower O'brien, and Holman Creek.
Mountain Conditions
There are no weather stations whatsoever located in the White Cloud Mountains at all. Again, this country is very remote and weather may be volatile year-round. The following links are good sources of information for current conditions.
1 Routes