Hike the North Fork of Big Pine Creek from Glacier Lodge. Set up camp at or above Sam Mack Meadow. The approach hike is about 7 miles to the end of the trail. From there traverse the Palisade Glacier to the base of the U-Notch, which is the obvious gap in the Palisade Crest.

Route Description

Climb the U-Notch Couloir (snow in spring and early summer, becoming progressively icier as the season progresses). If the bergschrund is open, climb the easy class 5 rock to the right of it. Ascend the gully till you come to some rocks and go to the left of those. You are soon at the notch. There is a 2-pitch chimney immediately on the right. Climb that (5.2 rock). When you reach the ridge, traverse on the South face of the mountain, staying below the crest. Drop into a bowl and then climb the opposite side up large boulders till you reach the summit. The last few moves are exposed, but the entire traverse from the top of the chimney is class 3/4. Snow can complicate the traverse.

A large cornice often forms at the top of the gully that feeds into the U-notch from the left about halfway up. If present, it is a good idea to be off the route before the sun has a chance to warm it up. It has been known to collapse.

Essential Gear

A helmet is a good idea in the U-Notch. That prominent dark streak didn't come from marmot poop!

Technical gear needed depends on conditions and your confidence on exposed, but easy, terrain. The rock section is short and easy, though a fall would be bad. Even in full ice conditions the gully is quite straightforward, averaging about 40 degrees in steepness. Surmounting the bergschrund is often the crux of the climb.

Needless to say, many people just choose to climb unroped. But for those who prefer the security of a rope, a 50m rope is plenty. A few nuts and/or cams plus slings will suffice for the rock portion. Depending on conditions in the gully, gear needed can range from crampons and ice axe to ice tools and ice screws. In the spring time don't forget your skis for the descent.

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