Approach
Take the North Fork of Big Pine Creek trail to the Palisade Glacier ( ok camping spots ). Cross the glacier to the base of the U Notch and Clyde Couloir. Starlight Buttress is the buttress to the right of Clyde Couloir.
Route Description
The crux is quite frequently crossing the bershrund to gain access to Clyde Couloir. Having someone in your party with the ability to climb about 20' of verticle ice may be necessary. Once in Clyde Couloir, it is recommended that one quickly cross to the right side of the Couloir and gain the rocks on the left side of Starlight Buttress. Moderate to easy rock climbing ( class 3 - 4 - easy 5th in spots ) leads to an alcove a couple of hundred feet below the summit. The original route goes up and right ( 5.4 ) to a gully that leads to the summit. An easier route goes up and left towards the notch at the top of Clyde Couloir. We then climbed an easy 4th class wall and dropped down into the top of the final gully on the original route. Wander North on the ridge to the summit. Rappel and down climb the route. See the R. J. Secor guide for more information.
Essential Gear
Ropes, helmets ( a must ), a light rock rack, slings, full ice gear including 3 - 4 ice screws.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
Images
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Palisades
