Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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44.18360°N / 71.4219°W |
Route Type:
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Ice Climb |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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II WI2 |
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Approach
From North Conway, go North on 16 to 302. Take 302 into Crawford Notch State Park.Park on a pull-out on the left (if heading north) just pass Willey Pond and the historic house. The climb should be visable above. Head due west up through the woods, usually on a packed trail. Continue up past the railroad tracks to the base of the climb.
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Route Description
Climb the large low angled slab to the top. You can either rope up at the very bottom of the slab or "scramble" up either side for one pitch before you start belayed climbing.The best line is usually up the center. There is usually one vertical bulge about 10' tall in the center of the route with several smaller bulges. Also there is occasionally an ice cave near the top. The route is four to six pitches (depending on where you start) of great modeerate ice climbing.
Video clip of the lower half of the route.
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Descent
Descend down through the woods on either side of the slab.There is another smaller slab of similar angle on the north side of Willey's slide that is worth a visit (Little Willey's).
Essential Gear
2 ice tools - or it could be climbed with an axe and a tool, or even just an axe if the past of least resistance in chosen.Crampons
Rope(s)
Standard ice rack
Full winter clothing (you are in the White Mountains here and the weather can be pretty mean, even if the route is moderate).