This great three pitch climb has formed inconsistently over the last couple of years. When it is formed up, the proximity to Hinton, relatively easy approach and stellar third pitch make this a worthy objective.

Getting There

From Hinton travel west 4 km and turn north (right) onto highway 40 to Grande Cache.

Continue on hwy 40 for about 44 km to the turn off west (left) to Rock Lake. This turn is atop a hill after crossing the Wildhay River.

Continue on this gravel forestry road for about 28 km watching across the valley for the climb. Park near the bridge across Mumm Creek a dry creek bed that may have a sign.

Google Map From Hinton

Approach

Follow the creek bed toward the climb down to the Wildhay River.

Crossing the Wildhay River

Cross the river which is usually low but open. Work your way up the slope to the base of the climb.

It has been a while, but I think the approach is around 30-45 minutes.

Route Description

Leading the Upper Pitch

The First Pitch

Pitch 1:
From the rope up area to the climber`s right of the climb work your way up very low angle (maybe grade 2) ice for about 30 m.

Pitch 2:
Continue up short steep steps for about 15-20 m. Grade 3.

Pitch 3:
Work your way up the upper tier looking for the best ice. This pitch can be an amazing sustained 20 m of grade 4 ice. I would guess it could be pretty ugly if the ice is not well formed.

Essential Gear

Bring a standard ice rack and a V-threader with Cordelette for rappeling.

Descent

Rappelling the Top Pitch - The Dry Creekbed in the Background.

Rappel the route off trees and v-threads.

External Links

There are two great websites for ice conditions in the Canadian Rockies:

Gravsports-Ice

and

Live The Vision - Ice Conditions.

Overview