The Climb That Was...

This easily accessible wall of ice was a popular climb for beginners and experienced climbers. It stood about 30 metres in height and offered multiple lines of grade 3-4 ice (depending on the year). It was truly a top roping haven, but would certainly push the hardened leader if they wanted.

Of interest the falls, when formed, are on the canyon wall of the McLeod River not Whitehorse Creek. Go figure on the name...

Recent development of a mining haul road resulted in the diversion of the spring feeding the climb and subsequently it is presently unable to form. Early efforts were made to reestablish flow, but progress has slowed recently.

At one point climbing was restricted, but that ban has been lifted. The first efforts to restore flow, were successful, but the water was diverted too low. It is unclear what has formed for ice at this time.

I will keep this site posted as to any progress made in the area.

Getting There

The village of Cadomin can be reached most easily from Hinton or Edson.

If travelling from Hinton. Drive west of Hinton to Highway 40 South and follow this road for about 46 km to a T-intersection. Turn right here and follow it to the town of Cadomin 2 km down the road.

Google Map From Hinton

The Base of the Falls

Coming from Edson. Drive west through Edson on Hwy 16 for about 9 km and turn south onto Secondary Road 47. This will take you South past the village of Robb and to another intersection after another 60 km. Stay left and continue south to Cadomin.

Google Map From Edson

Continue through Cadomin on the only main road past Inland cement which you will pass on your left. If you watch carefully ice can be seen briefly on the canyon wall low to your left. Continue up over the large overpass above Whitehorse Creek. A campground is to your left and you must go under the over pass to access it. Follow the road up for about 500 m and park.

Cadomin to Parking Area

Approach

The climb is about 1-2 minutes over the bank and down the hill to the top of the cliff. Look for a lone stand of trees with slings or chains at the base.

Route Description

The routes typically are rappeled into.

There was at one time multiple lines of ice available.

It is unclear what is formed up at this time. The terrain downstream is certainly less steep, but it could be possible that some grade 2-3 ice could form.

Essential Gear

Typical Ice Rack if leading.

Extra rope and cordelette is not a bad idea if you paln to toprope from different areas.

Descent

Walk up? You gotta love that.

External Links

There are two great websites for ice conditions in the Canadian Rockies:

Gravsports-Ice

and

Live The Vision - Ice Conditions.