Tsast Uul/Ula Tsambagarav

Overview

Tsast Uul is a 4193m mountain in Tsambagarav Uul National Park located within Bayan-Olgii provence, Mongolia. It is the 3rd highest mountain in Mongolia. It rises up out of a beautiful green valley that is used as pasture land by Mongolia's nomadic population.

Please bear with me, this is my first post and I only have a few photos and they aren't much help. Unforunatly my phone passed away and most of the photos were lost in a terrible phone passing away accident. I am open to any suggestions and edits.

Getting There

Olgii

First you need to gert to Olgii

By Air

You can fly into Khovd (HVD) or Olgii (ULG) from Ulaanbaatar airport (ULN) these flights should be bought at least a few weeks out and cost about $50-200 USD. If flying into Khovd you will need to arrange a bus transfer to Olgii, there is a "bus" aka van terminal near the town center and market that any taxi can take you to. The drivers will tell you it's a pleasant 4-5hrs but expect 10hrs roads are BAD in Mongolia but the scenery is beautiful. I paid about $2-5 USD. There was a highway under construction but not sure when it is expected to be complete.

By Bus

I would avoid bus travel in Mongolia for trips over 6 hours as the roads aren't great and a lot of breakdowns happen. There are coach busses but they are rare and stick to the paved routes. Most busses are actually overpacked vans with very narrow seats. Nevertheless if your heart is set on a bus this option is possible but will require a transfer or two and takes a few days from Ulaanbaatar, bring a lot of water and food as you never really know what will happen.

By Train

No train.

From Russia/ Kazakhstan

Across the Russia border point (App Tashanta), Mongolian (Ulaanbaishint Check Point) in a shared van or car $25-30 USD will get you from any major Kazak/ Russian city within 30hrs drive of Olgii (Barnaul, Russian/ Semey, Kazakhstan). The border is unpredictable at best it can be closed at random by either side, expect delays, on the way from Mongolia I spent eight hours of my Friday at the border only to be told sorry we are closing now wait until Monday.  Which I did and camped for a few days.

From China

I would not cross into Mongolia through China due to the ongoing Uyghur genocide in Ürümqi province China. If you have info on the boarder crossing feel free to add.

From Olgii to Tsambagarav Uul National Park

Once in Olgii you will need to arrange a driver or rent a dirtbike which is what I chose and allows for greater flexibility.  Once you have your veichle of choice take (1- Refer to map) AH-4 to Tolbo and from there continue on (2) AH-4 (after  fuel/ food stop, last town before mountain)  towards Tsambaragav.  I would dowload a map and bring a solar phone charger as well as a paper map.  Once closest to (3) Tsambaragav national park take one of the (4) dirtroads and follow it towards Tsambaragav.  Again, I am sorry for the poor directions but there are no roads the way most people think of roads in Mongolia, there are dirt paths and you don't relly know where it goes until you take it.  Anyway just go towards Tsambaragav on the map using the paths.  You can expect upwards of 10 river/stream crossings and they can be 1.5m+ in some areas.  If you're lucky you will reach the (5) large flat plain directly south of the the moutain.  Leave your bike or veichle with a ger, perhaps offer to pay some money/gifts.  They are very honest friendly people.  (6) Park there and head north to the moutain, you will see some horse tracks, follow these in the direction of the moutain, this will lead you to the (7) first flat spot for camping.  Continue to the summit (8)  Go back the same way, and even drive back to Olgii the SAME WAY, I did not and it took 8 hours and was nearly impassibe. 

Red Tape

I heard rumors of a park ranger who collects a small fee but I never saw anyone.  That is the only red coloured tape. Unlike Khueten Mongolia's highest peak there are pretty much no regulations since it does not lie close enough to Russia/ Kazakh/China boarders to warrant the boarder permit.  Climbing Khueten is much more popular but also very expensive as you must hire a guide ($400-600).

When to Climb

Summer, I can't imaine even being able to get there in winter. Try to pick some summy days with little wind.

Camping

You can camp pretty much anywhere but if camping near a ger be respectful and ask permission from the resident.  The Mountain is steep rocky and windy there aren't many places to pitch a tent except for a few spots where the horses have created a smooth flat patch about 2m by 2m.  Best to camp at the base and get an early morning start.

How to Climb

Please refer to the photos but basically get to the valley, cross the stream, climb the ridge continue to the snowfield. Get out the crampons/ ice axe and proceed the final 200m to the summit.

External Links

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