Ursprung Icefall WI4+

Overview

The Ursprung Icefall is located in the Ahrntal Valley, South Tirol, Italy.
Its on the route to the Hochgall, and is covered by rocks, so the sun is not able to melt the ice during the day.

Getting There

The village you start is Rein in Taufers, you follow the street in the valley and leave the car at the last park range, 10 minutes behind Rein.
From there you are able to see the Ursprung Icefall at the end of the valley, looking down a straight line, from the middle of the Hochgall.
Follow the way number 8c, mostly the way is used by snowshoe walkers, so its usefull to take your snowshoes with you.

You follow the way, and then in a straight line towards the icefall. There might be a lot of snow and its not sure that the whole way is tracked, so it might be a hard piece of work on the last kilometer. In good conditions you will need about 2 + hours for the approach.

Route Description

The Ursprung Icefall offers three lengths, over a wide of 50 meters,
the ice is very cold and blue, the left side of the wall is the more difficult one, up to WI4+, the right side offers the routes between WI2 up to WI3+.

You have to build your stands in the ice, and for the way down you have to rappel down the three rope lengths, walking down beside the fall is not possible.
The icefall is completely in the shadow during the day, and on the top is a big snowfield, that might be a big danger of avalanches, you will get the actual avalanche conditions in the local huts and taverns.

Essential Gear

Full ice climbing equipment
ice tools,
crampons,
harness,
two 55 meter half ropes
helmet and of course some ice screws.
Snowshoes for the approach are needful.
In this case avalanche gear is commendable, because of the snowfield on the top of the icefall.

Images

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