Aberdeen Glacier

I found a line that went right of the bergshrund and allowed me to protect a potential fall in the bergshrund via three exposed ice patches. The line constantly angles back left out of harms way until you reach rock that can be easily scrambled up. This line eats up about 6 ice screws, two per ice patch and involves some traversing on snow/ice. The traditional line to the left crosses the bergshrund at much broader gap and puts you directly below rock fall. We witnessed fresh rock fall in July, 2007. Ascent of the Aberdeen Glacier, Banff National Park, Canadian Rockies, July, 2007