Route Climbed: North Ridge / Rotgrat Date Climbed: july 2009 / august 2024
2009: After 2 failed attempts in 2007 on the normal route (twice we didn't leave our bivouac during bad weather) we opted for the North Ridge from the Mischabeljoch Bivouac the day after we climbed the Täschhorn. Short and enjoying route. Good conditions on the Eisnase during descent.
2024: After a failed attempt on the Rotgrat in 2023 (sick during the approach early morning) we are back in 2024. This time all goes well until we reach the top of the Wissgrat. The successive rock steps become more and more distinct due to reduced snowpack on the ridge, with a challenging dihedral to climb on the second step.
Also the slabs at the base of the bastion are different compared to what I read in all topo's. The reduced height of the final snow ridge makes the slabs at least 5 to 10m higher and 2 more spits are in place (and very welcome). It's hard to find / reach the first belay in 1 rope length. We did it in 2 and you really have to follow the spits / ledge all the way to the right until you can follow the ridge to the first belay (spit with maillon). After the first belay we stayed on the edge of the ridge for 4 more rope lengths until we started simul climbing to gain speed. Upon topping out the 2 final slabby rope lengths at the top of the Rotgrat ,we immediately backed down over the normal route to the Alphubeljoch in order to stay ahead of the bad weather coming in.
Having climbed a lot of classic ridges graded AD over the years, I found the Rotgrat considerably harder and definitely worth AD+ to me (as indicated in some guidebooks as well). In retrospect I would prefer an ascent earlier in the season after a sunny spell (rocks dry but still sufficient snow pack between the lower snow steps).
Joerg Marretsch - Jul 9, 2015 5:35 am Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2015
Normalroute
With a good friend from Taeschhuette in a warm sunny day and good snow condictions.
JuhoK - Jun 22, 2014 10:10 am Date Climbed: Jun 22, 2014
SE-ridge Solo
Climbed Alphubel en route to Mischabeljoch bivouac.
mulidivarese - May 20, 2012 4:05 am Date Climbed: May 12, 2012
from taschhutte
From taschhutte in a nice sunny day and good snow condiction
WouterB - May 16, 2012 2:20 pm Date Climbed: May 13, 2012
From Tasch
Nice climb with SP'er mulidivarese.
Silvia Mazzani - Jan 9, 2012 3:57 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2005
Normal Route from Langflue
A superb peak and a very crevassed glacier...
Huberschwiller - Aug 21, 2011 2:41 am Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2011
SE ridge
I started from Metro Alpin, using the early sunset ascent. Beautiful weather and very good conditions. Dry rocks on the Feekopf ridge and no ice on the Alphubel's nose. Way down on the normal route to Langflüe.
markhallam - Dec 29, 2010 2:15 am Date Climbed: Sep 27, 1991
Nice route
Climbed route in end of season conditions (cold & v icey). Previously had traversed to mountain in 1986, en route to do the Tasch-Dom traverse.
Chandra - Sep 25, 2010 3:26 am Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2010
Via Täschhütte and south ridge
Together with my friend Johannes on a gorgeous day.
jdrean - Sep 6, 2022 9:27 am Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2022
alphubel 22aug22climb from taschutte via ridge and climb down from the normal route - large crevasses but smooth
mklootwijk - Aug 31, 2020 2:42 am Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2020
Normalweg from Taschhutte to LangflueClimbed the normalroute from Taschhutte, going down to Langflue lift.
icypeak - Jun 15, 2019 12:12 pm Date Climbed: Sep 16, 2018
Beautiful mountainTook the first lift up on a beautiful and warm day. Then the clouds came, then the rain and finally the hail. But, loved it anyway!
Alberto Rampini - Sep 15, 2018 10:18 am Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2005
Normal Route from LangflueA crevassed glacier...
boriskrielen - Feb 5, 2018 5:26 am Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2011
SE-ridge solo from the valleyClimbed it solo in 1 day up & down from Täsch Alp in the valley by the SE-ridge. Did the main and all 4 sub summits. #nonstopsolo
il.rocciatore - Mar 12, 2016 3:50 am
Route Climbed: North Ridge / Rotgrat Date Climbed: july 2009 / august 20242009: After 2 failed attempts in 2007 on the normal route (twice we didn't leave our bivouac during bad weather) we opted for the North Ridge from the Mischabeljoch Bivouac the day after we climbed the Täschhorn. Short and enjoying route. Good conditions on the Eisnase during descent.
2024: After a failed attempt on the Rotgrat in 2023 (sick during the approach early morning) we are back in 2024. This time all goes well until we reach the top of the Wissgrat. The successive rock steps become more and more distinct due to reduced snowpack on the ridge, with a challenging dihedral to climb on the second step.
Also the slabs at the base of the bastion are different compared to what I read in all topo's. The reduced height of the final snow ridge makes the slabs at least 5 to 10m higher and 2 more spits are in place (and very welcome). It's hard to find / reach the first belay in 1 rope length. We did it in 2 and you really have to follow the spits / ledge all the way to the right until you can follow the ridge to the first belay (spit with maillon). After the first belay we stayed on the edge of the ridge for 4 more rope lengths until we started simul climbing to gain speed. Upon topping out the 2 final slabby rope lengths at the top of the Rotgrat ,we immediately backed down over the normal route to the Alphubeljoch in order to stay ahead of the bad weather coming in.
Having climbed a lot of classic ridges graded AD over the years, I found the Rotgrat considerably harder and definitely worth AD+ to me (as indicated in some guidebooks as well). In retrospect I would prefer an ascent earlier in the season after a sunny spell (rocks dry but still sufficient snow pack between the lower snow steps).
Joerg Marretsch - Jul 9, 2015 5:35 am Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2015
NormalrouteWith a good friend from Taeschhuette in a warm sunny day and good snow condictions.
JuhoK - Jun 22, 2014 10:10 am Date Climbed: Jun 22, 2014
SE-ridge SoloClimbed Alphubel en route to Mischabeljoch bivouac.
Valtho - Sep 9, 2012 9:48 am
From Taschhuttegreat route on a great day!
mulidivarese - May 20, 2012 4:05 am Date Climbed: May 12, 2012
from taschhutteFrom taschhutte in a nice sunny day and good snow condiction
WouterB - May 16, 2012 2:20 pm Date Climbed: May 13, 2012
From TaschNice climb with SP'er mulidivarese.
Silvia Mazzani - Jan 9, 2012 3:57 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2005
Normal Route from LangflueA superb peak and a very crevassed glacier...
Huberschwiller - Aug 21, 2011 2:41 am Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2011
SE ridgeI started from Metro Alpin, using the early sunset ascent. Beautiful weather and very good conditions. Dry rocks on the Feekopf ridge and no ice on the Alphubel's nose. Way down on the normal route to Langflüe.
markhallam - Dec 29, 2010 2:15 am Date Climbed: Sep 27, 1991
Nice routeClimbed route in end of season conditions (cold & v icey). Previously had traversed to mountain in 1986, en route to do the Tasch-Dom traverse.
Chandra - Sep 25, 2010 3:26 am Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2010
Via Täschhütte and south ridgeTogether with my friend Johannes on a gorgeous day.
Ivona - Sep 17, 2010 12:29 pm Date Climbed: Sep 5, 2010
from bivy near Täschhüttegreat views and weather.We decided to go down to normal route because of icy snow on SE ridge.
Climbed with Ania.
gert - Sep 6, 2010 4:53 am Date Climbed: Aug 31, 2010
Eisnase via FeechopfWas fun with snow on the rocks to the Feechopf! Descended Fee Glacier to längfluh. Perfect weather!
mooliczek - Jun 15, 2010 3:25 pm Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2009
SE RidgeVery nice route, great idea for acclimatisation. Offers beautiful views on Mischabel and Monte Rosa Group.
Climbed with Igi.
selinunte01 - Jan 4, 2010 8:16 am Date Climbed: Aug 17, 2002
Route from Täschhütteand back with a nice loop and a traverse of the summit; great day.
skileraar - Sep 7, 2008 7:37 am Date Climbed: Aug 2, 2006
Normal Routeonly two groups on the summit that day; pretty foggy and hard route-finding from the Taschhutte.