Marmarole

Overview

Torre dei Sabbioni

“The wildest group of the Dolomiti”. You can often hear this about the Marmarole when you are in the Dolomiti Orientali, and it's probably true.

Somebody could ask how a mountain group like this, composed by wonderful peaks and towers of almost 3000 meters, situated very near popular touristic towns and famous mountains, can be still so wild. There are three main reasons: the first is that all the main summits are difficult to climb and require alpinistic experience. Some of them can be climbed without climbing equipment but you have to be familiar with rock climbing and with the wild and isolated places. The second is that the valleys around this dolomitic peaks are deep and almost all the roads are not very good, so the approaches are often long, difficult and strenuous. The third reason is that there aren’t much information about these wild summits and whoever comes in this area prefers the more safe and advertised ( but also overcrowded ) routes of the nearby mountains around Cortina and Misurina, like the Tre Cime di Lavaredo or the Tofane group. But if you think that the Marmarole are not worth a visit just take a look at them at sunset from the Lago di Centro Cadore or from San Vito and admire the spectacular colours of these fantastic cathedrals of dolomia.

Of course if a broad part of this area is off-limits for tourists and casual hikers it’s not difficult to understand that the Marmarole are a fantastic paradise for “old fashioned” alpinists and real mountain lovers, that can breathe the atmosphere of the first pioneers of the Dolomiti. In this group you can find wonderful classic normal routes, not technically difficult ( usually around the II UIAA degree ) but very challenging because very long, hard and often not marked. There are also great climbing routes opened by famous rock climbers, like the Livanos routes on the Torre dei Sabbioni and the Corno del Doge.
 

Bel Pra group in Winter

The views that you can enjoy from the summits of these peaks are breathtaking, among the best of the whole Dolomiti. The mountains that you can see from there are countless, but within a range of 30 km you have Antelao, Pelmo , Civetta, Tofane, Croda Rossa d’Ampezzo, Sorapiss, Pomagagnon, Cristallo, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Cadini di Misurina, Croda dei Toni, Monte Popera, Cima Bagni, Croda Da Campo, Peralba, I Brentoni, Cridola, Spalti di Toro-Monfalconi, Cima dei Preti and Duranno.

These ones are the mountains of Tiziano, one of the greatest italian painters of the Renaissance, that was born in Pieve di Cadore, just at the feet of them. He loved so much this group that he painted it in one of his most famous masterpieces, “La presentazione della Vergine nel tempio”, a huge painting that can be admired in the museum “Gallerie dell’Accademia” in Venezia. A nice summit, a bivouac and a famous “Alta via” (a trekking route through the Dolomiti ) are named after him.

The Marmarole are usually put inside a broader group with Antelao and Sorapiss, but I think that it’s better to keep the three separate, because each one of them has its own identity and alpinistic history. And it’s really not fair to consider the imposing summits of this group just “minor” peaks near the two famous dolomitic giants.
 

Dante e Virgilio

Like many other ranges in the Dolomiti this one also is a fairy tale place, but here you won’t find elves or trolls but other strange inhabitants called Crodares, the sons of the rocks. Ruled by Tanna, a beautiful Queen that lives in a castle of ice, the Crodares are just like men but without feelings, because their heart is made of the same rock of the Marmarole. There are also stories about mythological animals, like the half black and half white chamoix.

The name Marmarole has probably the same root ( celtic ) of the Marmolada and should mean “splendour”.

Geography

From Monte Vedòrcia

This dolomitic group is situated in the North-east of Italy, inside the Dolomiti Orientali, in the area known as Centro Cadore ( Regione Veneto, province of Belluno ). It’s a 13 km ridge ( direction east to west ) that is divided in three subgroups: Marmarole Occidentali ( Gruppo del Bel Pra ), Marmarole Centrali and Marmarole Orientali ( Gruppo del Ciastelin ).

The borders are : Val d’Ansiei, Val del Piave, Val d’Oten and Val di San Vito.

The average elevation of this summits is around 2500/2800 m, with three mountains (Cima Bel Pra, Cima Bastioni and Cimòn del Froppa ) that nearly touch 3000 meters.

The highest summit is the Cimòn del Froppa ( 2932 m ).

Gruppo del Bel Pra

Marmarole Centrali

Gruppo del Ciastelin

Geology

If you observe well this mountains from every side you can easily understand the complexity of their geological structure. The group originated between 180 and 240 million years ago and is basically a huge syncline situated between two big faults called Linea del Pian di Sera ( N ) and Linea dell’Antelao ( S ).

The central part of the group is composed by Dolomia Principale ( Norian period of the Triassic age ) but all around it you can find stratifications of different kinds of dolomitic rock and limestone of the Triassic and Permian Age.

Once this group would have more glaciers than any other of the Dolomiti ( Ghiacciaio delle Selle, Ghiacciaio del Froppa di Fuori, Ghiacciaio del Froppa di Dentro, Ghiacciaio Meduce di Fuori and Ghiacciaio Meduce di Dentro ) but today are all completely disappeared, like almost all the glaciers of the dolomitic range.

Alpinistic Hystory

The first ascent in the Marmarole was disputed for a while but today is accepted that the alpine guide from Calalzo di Cadore Giovan Battista Toffoli ( known as Tita Petòz ) and the Captain G. Somano climbed in 1867 the highest summit of the group, the Cimòn del Froppa.

Ten years later another guide from the Cadore, L. Cesaletti , climbed solo and unroped one of the most beautiful towers of the group, the Torre dei Sabbioni, overcoming very high difficulties for those years and opening a new era of the dolomitic alpinism.
In the following years famous alpinists like Darmstadter and Zsigismondy and local alpine guides like Orsolina, Siorpaes and the Dimai brothers started to explore the area and climbed the most accessible summits of the group.
Then in the years before the first world war the Fanton brothers ( Umberto, Arturo, Augusto, Paolo, Teresa and Luisa ), the famous pioneers of the dolomitic alpinism, explored these mountains in a systematic way and opened the famous Albergo Marmarole in Calalzo di Cadore, which became a meeting point for the alpinists of those years. Among the brothers Umberto was the strongest and can be considered the real pioneer of this group ( for many is the first italian alpinist ). He was also a pilot of the Italian air force and died very young fighting in the skies above his beloved Dolomiti during the WWI.
In more recent times famous mountaineers like Severino Casara, Ettore Castiglioni and Georges Livanos opened interesting routes in the group but after the sixties this mountains slowly have been forgotten by the modern alpinists.

Cadore

Centro Cadore

One of the most loved places of the Italian Eastern Alps, the Cadore is basically all the area around the high riverbed of the river Piave. This river, that springs at the foothills of Monte Peralba, runs between the Dolomiti and the Carnic Alps and is sacred to all the Italians due to the tragic events happened in the last year of the First World War.

After the rout of Caporetto ( 10/24/1917 ), where the Italian army lost more than 10.000 soldiers (and almost 300.000 had made prisoners), all northern Italy seemed gone. But with great sacrifice the Italian army managed to set a defense line on the river and, after a year of fierce battles, the november of 1918 won the war in the famous battle of Vittorio Veneto.

This area is well known for its rich history. The first inhabitants of Cadore were probably the Celts (but there are also rests of the prehistoric men), that settled in the area probably since the VI century B.C. . Then many populations lived in the Cadore: the Romans, the Erulians, the Ostrogoths, the Bizanthins, the Longobards, the Francs, the Carinthians.

After the dark middle age the area became part of the Republic of Venezia and for centuries its population could live in peace. In the last years of the XVII century the French came and it started a long period of wars. The Cadore became soon part of the Austro-Ungarian empire and for more than a century was a contented area, until it finally became part of the kingdom of Italy (1866).
During the WWI fierce battles had been fought in the Cadore, especially in the mountains, where there are still many rests of those sad years.

The people of Cadore are famous for their hospitality and laboriousness. The economy of the area, that once was based on the agriculture and on the exploitation of the natural resources of the mountains, today is much helped by the tourism and by the factories of glasses.

Panoramic views

 

Marmarole Centrali

 

Marmarole Orientali

 

Gruppo del Bel Pra

Marmarole Occidentali ( Gruppo del Bel Pra )

Corno del Doge

mountain	elevation	normal route	first ascent	Latitude/Longitude	image
Torre dei Sabbioni	2531 m	From SW – difficulty around UIAA IV	L. Cesaletti, 8/24/1877	46.490/12.232
Cima Bel Pra	2917 m	From NW – difficulty around UIAA II	L. Pitacco-C. Brandolini-L. Cesaletti, 9/04/1880	46.485/12.240
Costa Bel Pra	2862 m	From the SW crest – difficulty around UIAA II/III	Von Roncador-O. Oppel, 8/18/1912	46.492/12.242
Corno del Doge	2615 m	From SE – difficulty around UIAA II	A. Armandi Avogli-L. Borziini-G. Croveris, 8/28/1888	46.501/12.249
Punta Dina	2526 m	From NW ( Forcella San Lorenzo )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	E. De Perini-G. Giavi, 8/17/1942	46.480/12.248
Punta Augel	2686 m	From NW ( Forcella San Lorenzo )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	E. De Perini-G. Giavi, 8/18/1941	46.480/12.253
Cima Scotter	2800 m	From NW ( Forcella Cadin )– difficulty around UIAA II	E. and O. Lecher-C. Reissig- P. Dimai-S. Siorpaes-A. Dibona, 8/25/1900	46.482/12.262
Cima Nosoio	2768 m	From the SE face – difficulty around UIAA V	A. Bianchini-B. Sandi, 8/17/1942	46.483/12.265
Cima Bastioni	2926 m	From the NW face – difficulty around UIAA II	L. Darmstadter-P. Orsolina-L. Bernard-J.Stabeler, 7/06/1890	46.489/12.268
Croda de Marchi	2796 m	From NE ( Forcella Vanedel )– difficulty around UIAA I/II	U. Fanton-G. Errera, 8/1914	46.497/12.264
Cima Sòra Casera	2398 m	From the N face – difficulty around UIAA II/III	L.,P., and A. Fanton, 7/10/1910	46.485/12.276

Marmarole Centrali

Cimòn and Croda Bianca

mountain	elevation	normal route	first ascent	Latitude/Longitude	image
Torre Frescura	unknown	From N ( Forcella Croda Rotta )– difficulty around UIAA IV/V	L. Cornaviera-U. de Polo, 5/19/1944	46.504/12.272
Croda Rotta	2632 m	From S ( Meduce di Dentro)– difficulty around UIAA II	M. Padoa-P. Orsolina, 8/31/1902	46.507/12.271
Cresta Vanedel	2725 m	From N ( From Pian della Gravina )– difficulty around UIAA III	L.,U., and A. Fanton, 8/12/1911	46.503/12.280
Cima Vanedel	2797 m	From S ( Val Vanedel)– difficulty around UIAA II/III	L. Darmstadter-L. Bernard-J. Stabeler, 7/04/1890	46.501/12.290
El Mèscol	2413 m	From E ( Conca del Meduce di Fuori )– difficulty around UIAA I	K. Domènigg-K. G. von Saar, 8/2/1903	46.513/12.485
Cima Pelosana	unknown	From N ( Forcella Croda Rotta )– difficulty around UIAA IV/V	L. -U. Fanton, 10/11/1911	46.500/12.292
Campanile San Marco	2777 m	From the W face – difficulty around UIAA IV	M. de Jankovics-A. Dimai-S. Siorpaes, 8/26/1902	46.504/12.288
Cime Orsolina	2803 m	From NW ( Meduce di Fuori )– difficulty around UIAA II	M. Padoa-G. Orsolina, 8/18/1902	46.502/12.288
Pala di Meduce	2864 m	From NE ( From Forcella Schiavina )– difficulty around UIAA I/II	L. Darmstadter-A. Helversen-L. Bernard-P. Orsolina-J. Niederweiser, 7/09/1890	46.503/12.297
Monte Meduce	2402 m	From W ( Bivacco Musatti )– difficulty around UIAA I/II	unknown	46.516/12.297
Cima Schiavina	2782 m	From NE ( Bivacco Tiziano )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	L. Darmstadter-P. Orsolina-J. Stabeler, 6/13/1891	46.506/12.300
Cima Tiziano	2802 m	From W ( Forcella Tiziano )– difficulty around UIAA II	E. and O. Lecher-A. Siorpaes-A. Dibona-G. Barbaria, 8/12/1900	46.501/12.299
Monte Oten	2244 m	From S ( Pian della Gravina )– difficulty around UIAA I	unknown	46.494/12.299
Cima Federa	2513 m	From S ( Pian della Gravina )– difficulty around UIAA III	L. and P. Fanton, 1911	46.498/12.299
Cime di Vallonga	2742 m	From W ( Forcella di Vallonga Ovest )– difficulty around UIAA II	L. Darmstadter-J. Stabeler-P. Orsolina, 6/13/1891	46.502/12.309
Monticello	2803 m	From E ( Forcella Monticello )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	E. Zsigismondy-L. Purtscheller, 7/26/1882	46.504/12.316
Cime di Valtana	2722 m	From NE ( Bivacco Tiziano )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	L. Darmstadter-P. Orsolina-J. Stabeler-l. Bernard, 6/14/1891	46.505/12.324
Punta Anita	2765 m	From N ( ghiacciaio di dentro di froppa )– difficulty around UIAA I/II	L. and U. Fanton, 9/04/1913	46.504/12.337
Monte Froppa	2840 m	From N ( Forcella Froppa )– difficulty around UIAA I/II	unknown	46.505/12.339
Cima Salina	2354 m	From S ( Rifugio Chiggiato )– difficulty around UIAA I/II	L. and P. Fanton, 1914	46.501/12.338
Punta della 68° compagnia alpina	2595 m	From S ( Rifugio Chiggiato )– difficulty around UIAA I/II	68° compagnia alpina-G. B. Petoz, 1900	46.507/12.340
Cimòn del Froppa	2932 m	From SW ( Forcella Froppa )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	G. B. Toffoli-G. Somano, 10/19/1867	46.508/12.339
Cima Arduini	2769 m	From N ( Bivacco Tiziano )– difficulty around UIAA I/II	L. and U. Fanton-G. Chiggiato-R. Levi, 10/14/1913	46.511/12.334
Cima del Rifugio	unknown	From N ( Bivacco Tiziano )– difficulty around UIAA I/II	L. and U. Fanton-G. Chiggiato-R. Levi, 10/14/1913	46.513/12.330
Cima Petoz	2877m	From S - difficulty around UIAA I/II	G.B. Petoz, 1900	46.509/12.339
Punta Teresa	2868 m	From W ( Ghiacciaio di Froppa di Fuori )– difficulty around UIAA I/II	L., A. and U. Fanton, 9/04/1913	46.511/12.343
Le Selle	2851 m	From N ( Lastoni delle Marmarole )– difficulty around UIAA I/II	L. Orsolina, date unknown	46.514/12.344
Torre Augusto	2718 m	From NW ( Lastoni delle Marmarole )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	L., A. and U. Fanton, 9/03/1913	46.515/12.345
Croda dell’Arbel	2729 m	From NW ( Forcella Cadin )– difficulty around UIAA I/II	K. Berger-J. Hechenbleikner, 7/22/1903	46.517/12.344
Croda and Spalla dell’Arbel	2729 m	From NW ( Lastoni delle Marmarole )– difficulty around UIAA I/II	unknown hunters	46.518/12.346
Cima dei Camosci	2673 m	From N ( Croda Alta di Somprade )– difficulty around UIAA II	L. and U. Fanton-R. Chiggiato-R. Levi, 8/2/1903	46.523/12.343
Cresta degli Invalidi	2783 m	From S – difficulty around UIAA I	unknown	46.505/12.543
Croda da Rin	2407 m	From the E face– difficulty around UIAA III	L. and P. Fanton-A. Berti, 9/07/1926	46.525/12.347
Croda Alta di Somprade	2646 m	From SE ( ghiacciaio delle Selle)– difficulty around UIAA II	unknown	46.527/12.337
Croda Bianca	2841 m	From the south east edge – difficulty around UIAA III	L. Darmstadter-H. Helversen-L. Bernard-V. Innerkofler-J. Stabeler, 6/29/1890	46.505/12.350
Campanile Calalzo	unknown	From the south face – difficulty around UIAA IV	M. Giacomelli-G. Bertagnin-M. Girardi	46.508/12.352
Torrione Libertà	unknown	From SE – difficulty around UIAA IV	E. Toffoli-M. A. Rossi, 8/15/1943	46.508/12.352
Monte Peronat	2409 m	From the W face– difficulty around UIAA III/IV	E. Castiglioni-S. Tutino, 7/10/1941	46.505/12.364

Marmarole Orientali ( Gruppo del Ciastelin )

Ciastelin

mountain	elevation	normal route	first ascent	Latitude/Longitude	image
Monte Ciastelin	2570 m	From S ( From Val Baion )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	U. and P. Fanton, 9/6/1906	46.510/12.375
Campanile Ciastelin	2602 m	From NW ( From Val Baion )– difficulty around UIAA II/III	F. Darmstadter-J. Stabeler-L. Bernard, 6/28/1890	46.512/12.377
Cima del Carro Armato	2525 m	From S ( Alta Val Baion )– difficulty around UIAA III/IV	S. Casara-W. Cavallini, 7/16/1942	46.513/12.377
Torre walter	2463 m	From S ( Alta Val Baion )– difficulty around UIAA V	S. Casara-W. Cavallini, 7/16/1942	46.513/12.375
Punta Granzotto	2443 m	From S ( Alta Val Baion )– difficulty around UIAA V	S. Casara-W. Cavallini, 7/16/1942	46.514/12.377
Dente nord di Pomadonna	2463 m	From S ( Alta Val Baion )– difficulty around UIAA V	F. Steirl-S. Schneider, 7/23/1952	46.515/12.373
Dente Sud di Pomadonna	2443 m	From S ( Alta Val Baion )– difficulty around UIAA IV	S. Casara-W. Cavallini, 8/29/1944	46.515/12.373
Il Pupo	2350 m	From NE ( Forcella di San Pietro )– difficulty around UIAA IV	O. Olivo-P. Fanton, 8/29/1925	46.513/12.381
Monte Ciarido - Cima Sud Ovest	2504 m	From S ( Alta Val Baion )– difficulty around UIAA I/II	Fanton brothers	46.514/12.386
Monte Ciarido – Cima Nord Est	2453 m	From E ( Forcella San Lorenzo )– difficulty around UIAA I/II	Unknown, 9/20/1902	46.516/12.389
Torre Laura	unknown	South face– difficulty around UIAA IV	G. Segni-M. Segni-U. Bagnaresi, 8/1960	46.514/12.383
Torre Artù	unknown	From S ( Alta Val Baion )– difficulty around UIAA V	F. Steirl-S. Schneider, 7/23/1952	46.518/12.391
Torre Pian dei Buoi	2350 m	From NE ( Forcella di San Pietro )– difficulty around UIAA IV	O. Olivo-P. Fanton, 8/29/1925	46.519/12.391
Torre San Lorenzo	2504 m	From S ( Alta Val Baion )– difficulty around UIAA I/II	Fanton brothers	46.521/12.392
Campanile di Val di Poorse	2443 m	From S ( Alta Val Baion )– difficulty around UIAA IV	S. Casara-W. Cavallini, 8/29/1944	46.519/12.389

Getting there

You can approach the group from the valley of the river Piave ( South ), the valley of the river Bòite ( East ) and the valley of the river Ansiei ( North ). If you choose the southern and eastern approach you can start from the villages of Lozzo, Pieve , Calalzo, Domegge or San Vito di Cadore.
If you come from the north you can start from Auronzo di Cadore and its surroundings. There are some mountain roads that go up to Pian dei Buoi, Val d’Oten, Val di Poorse and Val di San Vito but they can be in very bad conditions, so is better to ask info in the villages around before to start.

From West: From the Brennero motorway exit Bressanone/Brixen and then San Candido, Cortina d’Ampezzo, Auronzo di Cadore.
Or
Cortina, San Vito, Pieve, Domegge, Lozzo di Cadore.

From East: From the Udine-Tarvisio motorway exit Carnia and then Tolmezzo, Villa Santina, Forni di Sopra, Sappada, Santo Stefano di Cadore and Auronzo di Cadore.
Or
Santo Stefano di Cadore, Lozzo, Domegge,Pieve, San Vito di Cadore.
Or
Villa Santina, Forni di Sopra,Lorenzago, Lozzo, Domegge,Pieve, San Vito di Cadore
Or
Villa Santina, Forni di Sopra,Lorenzago,Auronzo di Cadore

From South: From Venezia to Belluno, Pieve, Domegge, Lozzo, Auronzo di Cadore
Or
Pieve to San Vito di Cadore

When to climb

The best season for hiking and climbing in the Marmarole group is the summer and the early autumn ( from June to October ). Winter ascents are only for very skilled alpinists. Some of the huts can be reached snowshoeing in the winter season.

Veneto weather forecast

Hiking in the group

There are wonderful hiking routes in this group that can offer some of the best views of the whole dolomitic range. But it must be said that almost all this routes are very long and challenging, recommended only to expert and well prepared people, that know well all the possible dangers of the mountain. Another important thing to say is that the weather conditions in this area can change very fast and in case of storms and heavy rains the paths can become very dangerous, so avoid to plan excursions when the weather is not good. Rescues can be very difficult ( if not impossible ) in some areas of this group.
 

Sentiero degli Alpini

Alta Via "Tiziano Vecellio"

This famous trekking goes through some of the wildest places of the Dolomiti, in the groups of the Dolomiti di Sesto and the Marmarole. It’s a 100km trek that goes from Sesto to Pieve di Cadore and can be done in 6 or more days ( several variations can be done ). The part inside the Marmarole is the more demanding, although some sections have been secured with iron ropes. In particular the path called Strada Sanmarchi that goes from Bivacco Musatti to Bivacco Voltolina shouldn’t be underestimated ( several serious accidents have already happened ) and is recommended only to alpinists or very experts hikers.
The views are breathtaking since the beginning, with this trek you have the chance to admire almost all the famous summits of the Dolomiti Orientali ( but also many of the Carnic Alps and Prealps ) from an unusual point of view, in one of the wildest environment you can imagine in the Alps.

Cadini and Tre Cime

Climbing routes

There are interesting climbing routes in the Marmarole, but very few have been often repeated. Here’s a short list of the most known:
 

Via Bianchi-Urban

Huts and Bivouacs

There are some nice alpine huts on the southern and eastern slopes of the group, but in the very heart of the group there are only four bivouacs.

Rifugio Baion

</no format>

Bivacco Voltolina

</no format>

Accomodation

This is a wild group but very near popular touristic towns like Auronzo di Cadore, Cortina d’Ampezzo and San Vito di Cadore, so you won’t have problems to find lodging in this area ( just remember that in the summer months and during the Christmas holydays it’s better to book in advance ).

Maps and Books

Tabacco maps 1:25000
016 Dolomiti di Centro Cadore

A. and C. Berti - Dolomiti Orientali vol. II - C.A.I. - T.C.I.
G.Buscaini – Le Dolomiti Orientali - Zanichelli
J.Gilbert – G.C. Churchill - Montagne Dolomitiche – Nuovi sentieri editore
Antelao, Sorapiss e Marmarole – Luca Visentini - Athesia
G. Buscaini, S. Metzeltin - Dolomiti. Il grande libro delle vie normali – Zanichelli Editore
H. Kammerer, R. Goedeke – I 3000 delle Dolomiti – Tappeiner