SEF - Jul 18, 2011 11:15 am Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2011
Fast Snow Conditions
Solo trip. Patchy snow from Bunny Flat becoming nearly continuous at Horse Camp. Hard crispy snow above Helen Lake turning mush by late morning. Lots of parties on the route. Left Bunny Flat 5:30 AM. Summited 10:00 AM. Back to the parking lot at 12:15 PM.
WayneFry - Jun 29, 2011 2:10 am Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2011
I'll be back
Base camped at Helen Lake with a group of 10 (SMG) climbers. Began our climb at 4 am the next morning. Beautiful sight. Clear weather, lots of stars, moon just above ridgeline, and a string of headlamps heading up the gulch. Reached the 13,500 ft mark but didn't summit on this trip. Team member not feeling well.
nikit - Jun 26, 2011 7:50 pm Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2011
Simple but strenuous
Bunny flat to the Summit in one day.
Started at Bunny Flat at 00:05 on Saturday morning. There was 6-8 feet of snow right from the trailhead. Reached horse camp in an hour. It is a very simple walk. The slope gradually increases after horse camp. The last 500-700 ft climb towards Helen Lake is pretty nasty. Reached Helen Lake at 04:00. Had our breakfast.
Geared up with crampons, started from there at 04:30 ish. Hike from Helen Lake to Red Banks is the killer - especially the last part. It is a 2500' straight climb. After the Red Banks, there is another upslope to Misery Hill. Misery hill is relatively simple. Reached the summit at 10:30. There was a ranger on the summit checking permits - so make sure you carry them with you even though you dumped backpacks on the way.
Climbing down was great fun. Gliassaded down ~4500 ft- from Red Banks all the way down to horse camp. The last ditch from horse camp to bunny flat seemed to take forever! Car-to-Car, it took us about 15 hours. It was strenuous - but worth it. The views from the hike up and especially from the summit are uncomparable!
Had taken 130 Oz (4 lit) of Gatorade and a few cliff bars - which was sufficient. I would highly recommend doing it in one day instead of camping at Helen lake or at 50/50. Also, if you want to camp in between, start early - the snow gets ridiculously slushy after late morning - which essentially doubles your effort of climbing. Peace!
Bascuela - May 5, 2011 8:39 pm Date Climbed: May 4, 2011
Great route for 1st time up.
Overnighted @ Helen Lake with moderate winds which died around 2:00am. Out of camp by 5:00, solid climb up the gully and to the right of the heart. Breezy but not too bad on top. On descent, the gulch was too icy to glisade but lower got a 500' glisade to camp. Then it was too warm an slushy for anything else. Good Route!
went for a two day trip making camp at Helen Lake. high winds all day on day 1 to get to camp but forecast called for a clear window the next morning, forecast was wrong! had to bail! will be back and beautiful mountain
LadyWawa - Jan 27, 2011 11:31 am Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2010
Weeeee Avi-Gulch
Went up from Helen Lake where I camped in September. I was intimidated by the Red Banks before going but it wasn't difficult at all. Maybe it was a little sketchy on the way down because of some ice but it was fine. Looking at the photos on this site, it looks like normally there is wayyyy more snow on Shasta than when I climbed it. I'd like to try again for an even more killer glissade! weeeeeeeeeeeeee!
From Horse Camp. My first time up the cattle trail :) Great views and awesome glissade !
Have also descended or glissaded this route several times after climbing other routes.
Mike Lewis - Nov 16, 2010 2:50 am Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2010
Avalanches in the gulch
Encountered water ice at Redbanks that I was certain (and wrong) would thaw later in the day. Ended up making the trip several hours longer. Beautiful Summit. I must revisit this place.
myjudge - Oct 27, 2010 2:45 pm Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2004
first time on a 14er
Climbed with a few guys for my bachelor party 4 days before my wedding. Fiancé wasn't too excited about the cool sunglasses tan and sunburned nose for our pictures. Great learning experience for me. Now I climb Shasta every year trying out different routes.
Paul86 - Sep 14, 2010 1:15 am Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2010
Amazing Climb!
First attempt on the mountain so I soloed the Ave Gulch. Loved the entire route. Glad to have gotten on this gentle giant.
JHH60 - Aug 17, 2010 8:30 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2010
Late Season
After 14 years in NoCal I finally got around to climbing this route. This was a heavy snow year so despite doing the route in mid August we were on snow from Lake Helen through the Red Banks. Climbed through the leftmost chimney on the Red Banks.
DougBenton - Jul 9, 2010 4:29 am Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2010
Solo climb!
Left Bunny Flat at 445am, summit around 210pm. That stretch from Helen Lake to the start of Misery Hill above the Redbanks took much longer than I expected and wore me out. Back to the parking lot a little after 530pm. One day, fantastic weather, excellent conditions. The glissade was awesome! Had the summit to myself the entire time.
JustinW - Jun 20, 2010 12:49 am Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2009
First 14er
Back in the States for under a week and nickL "talked" me into climbing. Didnt take much, after looking up at 18'000' peaks for 6 months I was ready to go as soon as I got home.
nickL - Jun 12, 2010 4:05 pm Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2009
Summer AG
Fantastic weather both days of the trip. Camped at Lake Helen on day 1, left for the top at 3:00 am day 2. We were able to follow a tiny stripe of snow that hadnt melted yet to the right of the heart and all the way to the top of the Red Banks. Stoked on my first 14 er!
Shredder and I did an extremely dry hike up the face, very loose, bivied right at the Red Banks on a ledge I made us. Lots of rockfall, we had to take cover above Helen lake a few times.
SKI - Dec 26, 2009 12:27 pm Date Climbed: Nov 27, 2007
RIP
Watched a gal buy it from Cassaval the day before thanksgiving. RIP.
SFMountaineer - Aug 4, 2009 12:49 pm Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2009
4 times
Been here 4 times, only successful once. Two failures due to weather, one due to a late start and extra cold conditions.
Seriously, the weather could not have been better for this trip. Perfectly clear skies, low winds and good snow made for a safe and beautiful ascent. We left Lake Helen around 4:45 and summited at 9:15. A low-wind, high-sun summit made for a nice rest before glissading down to Helen. The forest service rangers had a constant presence, always making sure climbers were safe and having fun (as well as checking for summit passes of course). My husband spoke with one of the rangers at length about an intense winter rescue some years ago. We were blessed to have such excellent weather yesterday.
zplustwo - Jun 16, 2009 10:17 am Date Climbed: Jun 14, 2009
AG
Rocked it with Summit for Someone, awesome route, awesome group. If you're looking for a guide, SMG is excellent.
Blackmouth - May 25, 2009 2:33 pm Date Climbed: May 20, 2009
Awesome Glissade
I summited with Forjan via Casaval ridge and we used Avy Gulch for our descent. The glissade down was awesome. The snow was a little mushy past Lake Helen.
SEF - Jul 18, 2011 11:15 am Date Climbed: Jul 16, 2011
Fast Snow ConditionsSolo trip. Patchy snow from Bunny Flat becoming nearly continuous at Horse Camp. Hard crispy snow above Helen Lake turning mush by late morning. Lots of parties on the route. Left Bunny Flat 5:30 AM. Summited 10:00 AM. Back to the parking lot at 12:15 PM.
WayneFry - Jun 29, 2011 2:10 am Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2011
I'll be backBase camped at Helen Lake with a group of 10 (SMG) climbers. Began our climb at 4 am the next morning. Beautiful sight. Clear weather, lots of stars, moon just above ridgeline, and a string of headlamps heading up the gulch. Reached the 13,500 ft mark but didn't summit on this trip. Team member not feeling well.
nikit - Jun 26, 2011 7:50 pm Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2011
Simple but strenuousBunny flat to the Summit in one day.
Started at Bunny Flat at 00:05 on Saturday morning. There was 6-8 feet of snow right from the trailhead. Reached horse camp in an hour. It is a very simple walk. The slope gradually increases after horse camp. The last 500-700 ft climb towards Helen Lake is pretty nasty. Reached Helen Lake at 04:00. Had our breakfast.
Geared up with crampons, started from there at 04:30 ish. Hike from Helen Lake to Red Banks is the killer - especially the last part. It is a 2500' straight climb. After the Red Banks, there is another upslope to Misery Hill. Misery hill is relatively simple. Reached the summit at 10:30. There was a ranger on the summit checking permits - so make sure you carry them with you even though you dumped backpacks on the way.
Climbing down was great fun. Gliassaded down ~4500 ft- from Red Banks all the way down to horse camp. The last ditch from horse camp to bunny flat seemed to take forever! Car-to-Car, it took us about 15 hours. It was strenuous - but worth it. The views from the hike up and especially from the summit are uncomparable!
Had taken 130 Oz (4 lit) of Gatorade and a few cliff bars - which was sufficient. I would highly recommend doing it in one day instead of camping at Helen lake or at 50/50. Also, if you want to camp in between, start early - the snow gets ridiculously slushy after late morning - which essentially doubles your effort of climbing. Peace!
Bascuela - May 5, 2011 8:39 pm Date Climbed: May 4, 2011
Great route for 1st time up.Overnighted @ Helen Lake with moderate winds which died around 2:00am. Out of camp by 5:00, solid climb up the gully and to the right of the heart. Breezy but not too bad on top. On descent, the gulch was too icy to glisade but lower got a 500' glisade to camp. Then it was too warm an slushy for anything else. Good Route!
jonmeek16 - Apr 10, 2011 12:32 pm Date Climbed: Apr 8, 2011
stuffed from high windswent for a two day trip making camp at Helen Lake. high winds all day on day 1 to get to camp but forecast called for a clear window the next morning, forecast was wrong! had to bail! will be back and beautiful mountain
LadyWawa - Jan 27, 2011 11:31 am Date Climbed: Sep 10, 2010
Weeeee Avi-GulchWent up from Helen Lake where I camped in September. I was intimidated by the Red Banks before going but it wasn't difficult at all. Maybe it was a little sketchy on the way down because of some ice but it was fine. Looking at the photos on this site, it looks like normally there is wayyyy more snow on Shasta than when I climbed it. I'd like to try again for an even more killer glissade! weeeeeeeeeeeeee!
rhyang - Dec 20, 2010 11:27 am
June 2004From Horse Camp. My first time up the cattle trail :) Great views and awesome glissade !
Have also descended or glissaded this route several times after climbing other routes.
Mike Lewis - Nov 16, 2010 2:50 am Date Climbed: Jun 7, 2010
Avalanches in the gulchEncountered water ice at Redbanks that I was certain (and wrong) would thaw later in the day. Ended up making the trip several hours longer. Beautiful Summit. I must revisit this place.
myjudge - Oct 27, 2010 2:45 pm Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2004
first time on a 14erClimbed with a few guys for my bachelor party 4 days before my wedding. Fiancé wasn't too excited about the cool sunglasses tan and sunburned nose for our pictures. Great learning experience for me. Now I climb Shasta every year trying out different routes.
Paul86 - Sep 14, 2010 1:15 am Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2010
Amazing Climb!First attempt on the mountain so I soloed the Ave Gulch. Loved the entire route. Glad to have gotten on this gentle giant.
JHH60 - Aug 17, 2010 8:30 pm Date Climbed: Aug 16, 2010
Late SeasonAfter 14 years in NoCal I finally got around to climbing this route. This was a heavy snow year so despite doing the route in mid August we were on snow from Lake Helen through the Red Banks. Climbed through the leftmost chimney on the Red Banks.
DougBenton - Jul 9, 2010 4:29 am Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2010
Solo climb!Left Bunny Flat at 445am, summit around 210pm. That stretch from Helen Lake to the start of Misery Hill above the Redbanks took much longer than I expected and wore me out. Back to the parking lot a little after 530pm. One day, fantastic weather, excellent conditions. The glissade was awesome! Had the summit to myself the entire time.
JustinW - Jun 20, 2010 12:49 am Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2009
First 14erBack in the States for under a week and nickL "talked" me into climbing. Didnt take much, after looking up at 18'000' peaks for 6 months I was ready to go as soon as I got home.
nickL - Jun 12, 2010 4:05 pm Date Climbed: Aug 10, 2009
Summer AGFantastic weather both days of the trip. Camped at Lake Helen on day 1, left for the top at 3:00 am day 2. We were able to follow a tiny stripe of snow that hadnt melted yet to the right of the heart and all the way to the top of the Red Banks. Stoked on my first 14 er!
theAxeman - Jan 3, 2010 11:11 am
Dry slogShredder and I did an extremely dry hike up the face, very loose, bivied right at the Red Banks on a ledge I made us. Lots of rockfall, we had to take cover above Helen lake a few times.
SKI - Dec 26, 2009 12:27 pm Date Climbed: Nov 27, 2007
RIPWatched a gal buy it from Cassaval the day before thanksgiving. RIP.
SFMountaineer - Aug 4, 2009 12:49 pm Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2009
4 timesBeen here 4 times, only successful once. Two failures due to weather, one due to a late start and extra cold conditions.
iditarod81 - Jul 27, 2009 3:21 pm Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2009
Fabulous weather.Seriously, the weather could not have been better for this trip. Perfectly clear skies, low winds and good snow made for a safe and beautiful ascent. We left Lake Helen around 4:45 and summited at 9:15. A low-wind, high-sun summit made for a nice rest before glissading down to Helen. The forest service rangers had a constant presence, always making sure climbers were safe and having fun (as well as checking for summit passes of course). My husband spoke with one of the rangers at length about an intense winter rescue some years ago. We were blessed to have such excellent weather yesterday.
zplustwo - Jun 16, 2009 10:17 am Date Climbed: Jun 14, 2009
AGRocked it with Summit for Someone, awesome route, awesome group. If you're looking for a guide, SMG is excellent.
Blackmouth - May 25, 2009 2:33 pm Date Climbed: May 20, 2009
Awesome GlissadeI summited with Forjan via Casaval ridge and we used Avy Gulch for our descent. The glissade down was awesome. The snow was a little mushy past Lake Helen.