Balanced Rock (Helper, Utah)

Balanced Rock (Helper, Utah)

Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 39.69884°N / 110.85884°W
Additional Information County: Carbon County
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

Every person driving from Salt Lake through highway 6 and beyond has seen this funny looking tower driving through the town of Helper. The town even has a restaurant named after the tower (https://m.facebook.com/Balance-Rock-Eatery-Pub-132662266800860/). Most people hike to the cliff before the tower, but several people have climbed the tower itself. There is only one route to the top. The climb involves trad gear and several ropes and I have rated it as 5.7 R/X. The first section is very sketchy, but once past is great and well protected climbing. This has been one of the strangest climbs I have ever done. Definitely a great adventure, even if only going to see the tower from the top. Message me if you'd like to add any information.

Getting There

Route

After following the route to get there, rappel twice from two notches. Each rappel is about 40-60 feet. The first rappel will require a sling off a tree, whereas the second rappel is off of obvious bolts. If returning the way you came, leave ropes to re-ascend. Once down from the second rap, hike along the ridge to the south side of the tower. You will see bolts at the base of balanced rock. From here begins the climb:
 
It can be broken up in one medium length pitch, or two small pitches.
Pitch 1 (5.6 R/X): Climb up to a ledge for about 15-20 feet on VERY chossy rock. There is no protection. At the base of the tower is two bolts for the belayer to anchor to. At the ledge you can use a several sized cams (0.5-3) in a giant and obvious crack.
 
Pitch 2 (5.7+): From here is very fun and well protected climbing for about 30 feet. Pockets and nice holds. Take a rack of cams (0.5-3) and you'll feel very safe. At the top are two bolts to belay & rappel from.
 
Descent: Either ascend up the ropes you left and return the way you came, or rap down the cliff for a quick descent. This path is a bit tricky, but you'll be down in no time. Looking back towards the notches you rappelled from, go right along the cliff. Find a large boulder to tie webbing or a sling around and rap down the cliff from here (150-200ft rap). From here, walk along the cliff and take the path of least resistance down. Several options, nothing too crazy.
 

Red Tape

None.

When to Climb

Feb - Nov

External Links

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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vanman798

vanman798 - Oct 6, 2024 11:24 am - Hasn't voted

Rappels, route, and time estimate

It is not necessary to rappel off the tiny tree located at the first rappel. If you look below this tree, on its north side, you will see a ledge (3 feet wide). Follow this ledge to the west over to a large boulder, stepping over a gap on the way. Six feet up on said-boulder you will see a set of chains. Rappel off the chains.

The first rappel is, indeed, only 40-50 feet, but the second one is closer to 70 feet.

If you follow the GPS track named "GPS Tracklog and Waypoints (Google Earth .KML format)" linked to in this write-up http://udink.org/2009/11/15/balanced-rock-helper-utah/ plan on 3 to 3.5 hours of hiking time just to reach the first rappel. By the time you do both rappels, climb the Balanced Rock, jug back up the two rappels you will be close to 7 hours into the outing, with another 3 hours left to make the backtrack descent.

Approach Route to Balanced Rock (based on the GPS route mentioned above) - see this map, and follow A to B to C to to D to E.
On the map A = corner of Stack and E Streets in helper (starting point)
B = old railroad grade, from Point B go northeast into Helper Canyon
C = location of 20 rung ladder
D = point where to turn west, gain the ridges plateau and follow it west to the two rappels
E = location Balanced Rock. The two rappels are only yards prior to this (essentially next to it to the east).

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