Page Type: | Route |
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Route Type: | Mountaineering |
Time Required: | Half a day |
Difficulty: | F2 **** |
Number of Pitches: | 4 |
FA: Gavin Raubenheimer, Gavin Peckham. 1 May 2007. Located on Beacon Buttress, on the escarpment face overlooking the path, which leads to the chain-ladders, this route follows a pleasant gully system for four pitches and is on good rock with good protection.
From Sentinel Car Park, follow the Chain-Ladder trail past Sentinel Peak to the base of Beacon Buttress Gully. Scramble up the gully for about 100 metres, until a major grass band appears on the right. Go right along this ledge and past a tricky step-over on rock. Scramble down a few metres, which brings one to the bottom of a huge gully and chimney system.
Start: On the left wall of the chimney system. 1. 30m (E3): Pull up awkwardly into the gully and follow the gully to the right and up a groove system past a piton, till under a steep chimney. 2. 30m (F2): Climb the chimney on good rock with good protection up to a ledge, then climb the short narrow chimney above and exit via a tricky move into a wider area of the main gully. Move up a few metres to belay at a piton on the right. 3. 45m (D): Follow the gully on easy rock and grass. 4. 50m (C): Scramble to the top. Descent (20 min). Scramble down Beacon Buttress Gully to the main path.