Free solo ascent of the Blitzen ridge, and perhaps one of the most spectacular ridges in rocky mountains, or Colorado. To those who are thinking of a solo attempt on the ridge, as others have stated, if you plan on doing it in a day, or two, get an EARLY start. The ridge is very committing, and with one mistake meaning certain death you must be in good alpine/climbing shape. If you are committed and ready for hours of exposure, do not let the first site of the ridge turn you off. Most of the route looks impossible to solo until you are on it. What took me and my partner the longest was route finding, as we did not want to get cliffed out or worse... Where the rock is good, it is GOOD, however, test EVERY hold, as there are some incredible-looking jugs that are loose as can be, and you will only find this out when you pull on it. The first ace was exposed, but simple climbing following grass ledges and crack systems. same with the second ace. The third ace has a few options, we opted for the prominent dihedral as we had the most beta on it, however going further right may lead to less exposed climbing. I feel that this section is the most technical and sketchy, but relatively short. The downclimb was intimidating, but had phenomenal holds and relatively simple route finding, do what looks the best to you in the moment, but shoot for the prominent edges on the side going to the saddle. The fourth ace had the most sustained technical climbing, from the top of the third ace you can spot the large flake that you want to get on top of, and from there you can begin wrapping around the climber's right side of the peak, into the saddle by the headwall. The headwall was not as complex as I expected, and if you stay left you will find a featured crack system with a few 5.4/5.3 moves, which will top you out on the ridge. Stay relatively left and you will be in the homestretch of ENDLESS 4th class scrambling to the summit. This was one of the most wonderful free solo experiences I have had, and the area is beautiful. If you have the opportunity, like we did, make it an overnight and enjoy the lakes and the shorter approach from Chipmunk. As stated, this is not a date climb, and you must be prepared for lots of low 5th and 4th-class climbing and must be EXTREMELY comfortable with exposure.
This was a great scrambling and "easy climbing" route in a beautiful part of the park. We didn't see anyone else out throughout the entire 16-hour day. We soloed the first three towers, did one roped traversing pitch on the fourth tower, and then remained on 4th class terrain (at the highest) the rest of the way up the Blitzen ridge to the summit. On the descent we got suckered into a gully off Donner Ridge that ended up cliffing out, hence the long day.
Soloed the first three aces. roped up for the 4rth and headwall. Great day out. solid rock. and did I say this is an amazing climb?
SarahThompson - Aug 31, 2008 9:38 pm Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2008
Epic!
The climbing was fun and easy but the up and down nature of the aces and the low angle terrain caused rope management hell for us relative newbies to alpine climbing. My favorite part was the 1000+ ft of 3rd to low 5th class scrambling on the ridge crest above the headwall, although I wished I didn't have on a huge pack full of climbing gear. The only scary part was the building clouds but the weather miraculously held all day. Started at 2:20am, summitted at 4:20pm, and finished at 9pm. One heck of a day! Great learning experience.
ripper333 - Jun 30, 2008 11:56 am Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2008
hell yeah
wow this is a killa climb.... left lawn lake trail head a little after 4... base of the ridge
8:30.....we soloed so able to move quickly.... the downclimb off 2nd ace got the heart goin a bit.. reached the summit at 12:20... i loved this ridge ...quality rock...incredible views... transversed all the way around the top of the corniced stuff at the top...
i dont think i would want to glissade this even if i had my axe...lots and lots of
rocks...seems your ass would see a rough show.. decended ridge on the other side
back to lake... ran full speed the 5 miles back to the trailhead.. big day...climbed with JC... johnny v hiked with us to lake..
Dan Dalton - Aug 14, 2007 10:48 am Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2007
Oh Yeah
Went with a partner and another rope team. Fun and long, not to hard though. I think it would be wise to solo the first three aces, tackle the 4th and headwall roped up, and then put it away again. Long day, but great views.
Dan
Mountain Jim - Sep 8, 2006 4:05 am Date Climbed: May 28, 1966
Variation
We climbed the lower portion of the Y, then traversed out to the Blitzen Ridge on an easy, but exposed ledge system. This variation avoids the "Four Aces."
We think this was a first ascent of this variation.
that_dude_named_jude - Aug 9, 2024 2:36 pm Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2024
The path to the kingdom of heavenFree solo ascent of the Blitzen ridge, and perhaps one of the most spectacular ridges in rocky mountains, or Colorado. To those who are thinking of a solo attempt on the ridge, as others have stated, if you plan on doing it in a day, or two, get an EARLY start. The ridge is very committing, and with one mistake meaning certain death you must be in good alpine/climbing shape. If you are committed and ready for hours of exposure, do not let the first site of the ridge turn you off. Most of the route looks impossible to solo until you are on it. What took me and my partner the longest was route finding, as we did not want to get cliffed out or worse... Where the rock is good, it is GOOD, however, test EVERY hold, as there are some incredible-looking jugs that are loose as can be, and you will only find this out when you pull on it. The first ace was exposed, but simple climbing following grass ledges and crack systems. same with the second ace. The third ace has a few options, we opted for the prominent dihedral as we had the most beta on it, however going further right may lead to less exposed climbing. I feel that this section is the most technical and sketchy, but relatively short. The downclimb was intimidating, but had phenomenal holds and relatively simple route finding, do what looks the best to you in the moment, but shoot for the prominent edges on the side going to the saddle. The fourth ace had the most sustained technical climbing, from the top of the third ace you can spot the large flake that you want to get on top of, and from there you can begin wrapping around the climber's right side of the peak, into the saddle by the headwall. The headwall was not as complex as I expected, and if you stay left you will find a featured crack system with a few 5.4/5.3 moves, which will top you out on the ridge. Stay relatively left and you will be in the homestretch of ENDLESS 4th class scrambling to the summit. This was one of the most wonderful free solo experiences I have had, and the area is beautiful. If you have the opportunity, like we did, make it an overnight and enjoy the lakes and the shorter approach from Chipmunk. As stated, this is not a date climb, and you must be prepared for lots of low 5th and 4th-class climbing and must be EXTREMELY comfortable with exposure.
BLong - Sep 30, 2016 9:11 pm Date Climbed: Sep 29, 2016
Great RidgeThis was a great scrambling and "easy climbing" route in a beautiful part of the park. We didn't see anyone else out throughout the entire 16-hour day. We soloed the first three towers, did one roped traversing pitch on the fourth tower, and then remained on 4th class terrain (at the highest) the rest of the way up the Blitzen ridge to the summit. On the descent we got suckered into a gully off Donner Ridge that ended up cliffing out, hence the long day.
noahs213 - Jul 18, 2010 4:02 pm Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2010
AwesomeSoloed the first three aces. roped up for the 4rth and headwall. Great day out. solid rock. and did I say this is an amazing climb?
SarahThompson - Aug 31, 2008 9:38 pm Date Climbed: Aug 30, 2008
Epic!The climbing was fun and easy but the up and down nature of the aces and the low angle terrain caused rope management hell for us relative newbies to alpine climbing. My favorite part was the 1000+ ft of 3rd to low 5th class scrambling on the ridge crest above the headwall, although I wished I didn't have on a huge pack full of climbing gear. The only scary part was the building clouds but the weather miraculously held all day. Started at 2:20am, summitted at 4:20pm, and finished at 9pm. One heck of a day! Great learning experience.
ripper333 - Jun 30, 2008 11:56 am Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2008
hell yeahwow this is a killa climb.... left lawn lake trail head a little after 4... base of the ridge
8:30.....we soloed so able to move quickly.... the downclimb off 2nd ace got the heart goin a bit.. reached the summit at 12:20... i loved this ridge ...quality rock...incredible views... transversed all the way around the top of the corniced stuff at the top...
i dont think i would want to glissade this even if i had my axe...lots and lots of
rocks...seems your ass would see a rough show.. decended ridge on the other side
back to lake... ran full speed the 5 miles back to the trailhead.. big day...climbed with JC... johnny v hiked with us to lake..
Dan Dalton - Aug 14, 2007 10:48 am Date Climbed: Aug 12, 2007
Oh YeahWent with a partner and another rope team. Fun and long, not to hard though. I think it would be wise to solo the first three aces, tackle the 4th and headwall roped up, and then put it away again. Long day, but great views.
Dan
Mountain Jim - Sep 8, 2006 4:05 am Date Climbed: May 28, 1966
VariationWe climbed the lower portion of the Y, then traversed out to the Blitzen Ridge on an easy, but exposed ledge system. This variation avoids the "Four Aces."
We think this was a first ascent of this variation.