It's great to see this on SP. I actually became interested in this climb a year and a half ago after seeing it in the "Famous Faces" section of Rock and Ice. Since then I have been researching it but there is a shortage of info out there. Your photos and pitch by pitch accounts are very helpful. If you don't mind me asking, how much did this trip cost you? Also, any helpful hints on planning this one?
This trip was done about 9 years ago, so I'm not sure what it would cost now, but in all honesty, at that time, with 4 guys, it wasn't that expensive. We paid $450 each for the float plane which included at least one night at Warren's ritzy lodge on the way out. Other than that, it was just the expense of driving up there, and all the new gear I just "had to have".
Helpful hints:
Book a flight right away - I think Warren still does it (seach his name of Google).
Helicopter in if you can afford it - the hike truly sucks.
Make sure you put aside at least 3 weeks in the Cirque - we were there for 3 weeks (last week of July, first 2 weeks of August) and had 1 day when it didn't rain, snow, or was extremely cold and windy (which was our last day there).
Climb the LFT in a day if you can - it's logistically simpler; and it means you need only one good day of weather instead of two.
Bring some good reading material
Feel free to ask me anymore questions - I'll help you where I can.
pictures! Very amazing and very inspiring. I have never been over 6 pitches and I can only imagine how taxing on energy and how amazing the feeling of being that high is. Thanks for sharing!
Man I really enjoyed this! Loved the gear bombing and parachute idea! Mirek reminds me of a good friend of mine- always coming up with quirky ideas and being 100% serious about them (it helps when they have a quirky foriegn accent too).
Great job on the climb and an excellent trip report! Thanks for sharing!
-Rick
Thank You soooo much for taking the time to write this all up,...and for finding the Right Words to do it !!! I was Blessed to get on LFT in 1971!! At that time in my Life I found every aspect of the trip (the AlCan Highway was still all gravel, etc) right at the edge of what I could physically deal with, mentally assimilate and emotionally endure !! Surely One of the Greatest Adventures of my Life !!!...and YES !! the hike up Truly Sucks, but let us Give THANKS for the Safety and Wonders that await any one persistant enough to make it up the hill and into the Cirque !!! THANK YOU.
Thanks for the compliment - definitely one of the great adventures of my life as well.
Wow that's awesome -1971 ( I was 9). Did you primarily do it as an aid route, or did you free lots of it? I bet there were no crowds in 1971, and the bivy ledege probably still had grass on it.
Looked at you page - Devil's Tower is definitely somewhere I want to get to. What's the best time of the year to go (weather wise)?.
Thanks - I looked at your page, and you've inspired me to put some pictures of my (5 year old) daughter there. I liked your words about family and climbing.
your part about: "The climbing on pitches 12 to 15 is unbelievable – moderate climbing with perfect protection anywhere you need it and nice protruding holds to stand on to place the gear."
really makes me wanna go there someday.....BUUUUT the part about the shit weather for weeks at a time kind of cools my jets. Great write up Sir!
Thanks for the compliment - I enjoyed writing it. The weather can be crappy, but I guess that's the price you pay to climb such as incredible route. When we got to the 10th pitch and were looking up the headwall, we knew that no matter what we were going to climb it - it's such an incredible piece of rock that you can see why people come from all over the world to climb it. Who knows - global warming; maybe in a few years you do it in shorts and a T-shirt.
oh that was about maybe 5years ago looked like what you explained
ever since ive seen it im also interested in climbing LFT its another dream climb maybe some day looks like a very cool climb
Thanks for the comment. Sorry about the late reply; I've got a shoulder injury and so have been unable to climb and am unmotivated to check my site. The LFT is an amazing climb and in my opinion one of the classic moderate alpine lines in the world. It's well worth making the effort.
Dan Leonhard - Nov 8, 2007 11:11 am - Voted 10/10
Great to see!It's great to see this on SP. I actually became interested in this climb a year and a half ago after seeing it in the "Famous Faces" section of Rock and Ice. Since then I have been researching it but there is a shortage of info out there. Your photos and pitch by pitch accounts are very helpful. If you don't mind me asking, how much did this trip cost you? Also, any helpful hints on planning this one?
AJones - Nov 8, 2007 11:55 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Great to see!This trip was done about 9 years ago, so I'm not sure what it would cost now, but in all honesty, at that time, with 4 guys, it wasn't that expensive. We paid $450 each for the float plane which included at least one night at Warren's ritzy lodge on the way out. Other than that, it was just the expense of driving up there, and all the new gear I just "had to have".
Helpful hints:
Book a flight right away - I think Warren still does it (seach his name of Google).
Helicopter in if you can afford it - the hike truly sucks.
Make sure you put aside at least 3 weeks in the Cirque - we were there for 3 weeks (last week of July, first 2 weeks of August) and had 1 day when it didn't rain, snow, or was extremely cold and windy (which was our last day there).
Climb the LFT in a day if you can - it's logistically simpler; and it means you need only one good day of weather instead of two.
Bring some good reading material
Feel free to ask me anymore questions - I'll help you where I can.
Dan Dalton - Nov 12, 2007 10:13 am - Voted 10/10
I love the old skool...pictures! Very amazing and very inspiring. I have never been over 6 pitches and I can only imagine how taxing on energy and how amazing the feeling of being that high is. Thanks for sharing!
Dan
AJones - Nov 12, 2007 10:28 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: I love the old skool...Thanks; yep, getting up high is a high. I love everything about being on big walls, except incoming weather (scares the piss out of me)
pvalchev - Nov 12, 2007 6:41 pm - Voted 10/10
Great trip reportthanks for sharing - it's well written and inspiring! I still don't know anyone who climbed there in good weather :)
AJones - Nov 12, 2007 10:23 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Great trip reportThanks! The weather is one of the biggest cruxes - you just need to allow for enough time, and hope for the best
rickford - Nov 13, 2007 9:33 am - Voted 10/10
So cool!Man I really enjoyed this! Loved the gear bombing and parachute idea! Mirek reminds me of a good friend of mine- always coming up with quirky ideas and being 100% serious about them (it helps when they have a quirky foriegn accent too).
Great job on the climb and an excellent trip report! Thanks for sharing!
-Rick
AJones - Nov 13, 2007 10:34 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: So cool!Yep, sounds like Mirek - czech accent. Some of his sayings are hillarious - "piece of pancake", "up shit creek with a paddle"
bigwally - Nov 13, 2007 6:12 pm - Voted 10/10
THANK YOU !!!!!Thank You soooo much for taking the time to write this all up,...and for finding the Right Words to do it !!! I was Blessed to get on LFT in 1971!! At that time in my Life I found every aspect of the trip (the AlCan Highway was still all gravel, etc) right at the edge of what I could physically deal with, mentally assimilate and emotionally endure !! Surely One of the Greatest Adventures of my Life !!!...and YES !! the hike up Truly Sucks, but let us Give THANKS for the Safety and Wonders that await any one persistant enough to make it up the hill and into the Cirque !!! THANK YOU.
AJones - Nov 14, 2007 12:01 am - Hasn't voted
Re: THANK YOU !!!!!Thanks for the compliment - definitely one of the great adventures of my life as well.
Wow that's awesome -1971 ( I was 9). Did you primarily do it as an aid route, or did you free lots of it? I bet there were no crowds in 1971, and the bivy ledege probably still had grass on it.
Looked at you page - Devil's Tower is definitely somewhere I want to get to. What's the best time of the year to go (weather wise)?.
AJones - Nov 15, 2007 9:28 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: InspiringThanks - I looked at your page, and you've inspired me to put some pictures of my (5 year old) daughter there. I liked your words about family and climbing.
rpc - Nov 16, 2007 12:04 pm - Voted 10/10
what a great read!your part about: "The climbing on pitches 12 to 15 is unbelievable – moderate climbing with perfect protection anywhere you need it and nice protruding holds to stand on to place the gear."
really makes me wanna go there someday.....BUUUUT the part about the shit weather for weeks at a time kind of cools my jets. Great write up Sir!
AJones - Nov 16, 2007 9:09 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: what a great read!Thanks for the compliment - I enjoyed writing it. The weather can be crappy, but I guess that's the price you pay to climb such as incredible route. When we got to the 10th pitch and were looking up the headwall, we knew that no matter what we were going to climb it - it's such an incredible piece of rock that you can see why people come from all over the world to climb it. Who knows - global warming; maybe in a few years you do it in shorts and a T-shirt.
Brett B - Nov 18, 2007 1:57 am - Voted 10/10
Amazing...Report dude, I need to get there some day!
AJones - Nov 19, 2007 10:04 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Amazing...Thanks. If you go, you'll be glad you did; it's an amazing place.
bigwallt - Nov 18, 2007 1:51 pm - Hasn't voted
Bravo!!Very nice trip report. Warren is a class act don't you think?
AJones - Nov 19, 2007 10:03 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Bravo!!Yes, Warren is a cool guy. I think if you're going to fly into the cirque, he's your best option.
Bluecube22 - Jun 8, 2008 1:13 am - Voted 10/10
i too seen an article in a magoh that was about maybe 5years ago looked like what you explained
ever since ive seen it im also interested in climbing LFT its another dream climb maybe some day looks like a very cool climb
AJones - Jul 4, 2008 10:20 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: i too seen an article in a magThanks for the comment. Sorry about the late reply; I've got a shoulder injury and so have been unable to climb and am unmotivated to check my site. The LFT is an amazing climb and in my opinion one of the classic moderate alpine lines in the world. It's well worth making the effort.
atavist - Mar 11, 2009 4:29 am - Voted 10/10
ThanksInspiring route and great report. It will stay in the back of my mind until I am able to climb it myself.