Bucksnort Slab, 5.7-5.12b

Overview/Approach

If you are looking for moderate trad cragging in South Platte, Bucksnort Slab is one of the more interesting and enjoyable options.  You will be hard pressed to see another climber during weekdays and the river below offers a pristine environment.  Bucksnort Slab is located in a cool historical district accessed via a city street in the tiny historical town of Pine.  The center of history for this area is the infamous Bucksnort Saloon.  A rail use to run from Denver down to the Salida and ran along the Platte River below the slab.  The rail no longer exists, but old cabins perched on boulders along the river still do.  The saloon was still open as late as early 2022, but has been closed due to a septic inspection failure (June, 2022).  The saloon is just upstream from the slab.  Parking is minimal but there is a single vehicle parking spot just east of a modern (2022) home that straddles the river.

Most bouldrites who would travel down here are just after the classic 5.7**** trad route aptly named Classic Dihedral.  However, there are a handful of 5.8-5.10 trad routes that are just as clean and interesting as the dihedral.  Buck Fever, 5.9***, offers a mix of a solid trad corner to runout bolted slab.  Bushes of Beelzebub, 5.8+***, offers a 200’+ pure trad pitch that is fun and sustained at the grade.  Motor Mouth, 5.9+**, offers a dicey and sustained traversing trad climb for the grade.  As with most 5.9+'s, it would be best if you were a competent 5.10 trad leader to lead it.  Most of the fully bolted routes are old style with ample runout.  

Turn east onto 4^th street in downtown Pine.  Follow the paved road as it takes a right and starts to follow the Platte River upstream.  The slab will come into view in short order.  As before mentioned, the best parking is past the slab and a modern home on your right.  Park at a pullout just on the other side of a bridge.  Most all other parking opportunities are private.

Routes Listed Left to Right as you Face this South Facing Wall

Overlooked- 5.9+*/

The Buck Stops Here- 5.12a*/

Left Out- 5.10a**/

Saque Los Pantalones- 65’-5.10b**/ Worth doing if you are already this far left to climb Buck Fever.  Circumvent the large boulder to the left of Buck Fever and hike back up to the first bolt line on that side of the arete.  Clip 5 spacious bolts over 65’.  The crux is between the 2^nd and third bolt down low via steep slab with minimal edges for fingers.  The upper half of the route is cruiser (for the grade) to the shared fixed rap with Buck Fever.  Dow

Buck Fever- 160’-5.9***/ Located at the far-left end of the wall next to a huge boulder.  This is an excellent moderate with some variation.  Climb the fairly easy and obvious right facing dihedral for the grade.   At the top of the dihedral you clip a fixed rap and continue through 3 spacious bolts.  This top section is sustained slab (2^nd pitch in the local guide) that only offers three bolts through 70’.  This bolted section is a heady lead for the budding 5.9 leader.  Two single rope raps to the ground.  This route is longer than the Fixed Pin guide suggests.  Single to #3.  Dow

Bouxsnort- 5.10cR***/

Shake n Bake- 5.10d**/

Grand Slam- 5.11b*/

Hurricane Gloria- 5.12b*/

The Good, The Bad and the Ugly- 5.12b**/

Classic Dihedral- 150’-5.7****/ The Fixed Pin guide has this route at 125’, but it is considerably longer.  If climbing with a 70m, on rappel you make a ledge and then have to downclimb an easy 5^th class shallow chimney.  Start way right and climb the first crack you come to.  Traverse left to the main finger dihedral.  Place gear at will.  Great fingers and feet the whole way.  Single to #3 plus wires or offsets.  Dow

Dead After Dark- 5.11a**/

Slippery When Wet- 5.11b***/

Slippery When Dry- 5.11d***/

Nuclear Burn- 5.11d**/

Bushes of Beelzebub- 205’-5.8+***/ I led this as one pitch via a 70m rope.  Really good route, fun and sustained at 5.8.  Climb the splitter to a traverse right to a wider crack.  Stay right at a junction of hand cracks.  Climb this crack until it bears down to fingers and jaunts right.  Pass a slung rap and fixed rap (Motor Mouth) out right.  Fixed rap on top.  Two single rope raps utilizing the slung rap.  Single to #4 plus wires.  Dow

Core Dump- 5.11c**/

Crazy Face- 5.11a*/

Motor Mouth- 115’-5.9+**/ As with many 5.9+ routes, this lead might as well be a 5.10b. A sustained pitch.  Easily climb the left facing corner to get your feet up to a horizontal crack out left.  Awkwardly place a piece at your feet.  Mantle up the refrigerator sized detached block.  Make crux moves up through the singular bolt enroute.  Another crux above on tricky gear.  Gain the hand traverse left, through a fixed pin, to the three-bolt rap.  Double to #.75 plus a #3.  Offsets or wires highly recommended.  Leader can lower to the ground and belay the 2^nd from the ground with a 70m.  Dow

Bats in the Belfry- 5.10aR*/

Gumby Groove- 5.10b***/

Pokey Minds the Baby- 5.11a**/

Boys are Back- 5.11b/

Prickle’s Problem- 5.10d***/

Over and Out- 5.8-*/

Easy Out- 5.8-/