Buckspeck

Approach

Take the NorthEast Buttress Approach. The route is inbetween Calculus Affair and Marriage Was My Worst Mistake. It is easily identified by the bolts on the column face......which lead to a stunning right facing dihedral above.

Route Description

This route was first done by Dennis Horning and Hollis Marriott (that is Dingus McGee and the Last Pioneer Woman), in 1991. It is one of the few pure face climbs on the Tower. Once you clip the first bolt, no harm will come to you. The bolts are big and all are in the right places. A 3-Star Route.

Pitch 1. (170 ft., 5.10c) Follow the dozen and a half or so Bolts to a Big Bolt Belay on the column's sloping top. The best line between bolts is not always a straight one !!

Finish. Either rap out or continue up on Steppen' Out Of Flatland (5.11b) or straight up that lovely corner above, Team Ropin' (5.12a) with 13 Bolts for protection. Both are Very Good climbs.

For other face climbs see bigwally's face climb guide on the Devils Tower Main Page under the MISC. Section.

Essential Gear

Quickdraws !! Take about 18 of various lengths.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.