Dyon - Jun 4, 2024 10:05 am Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2024
(Casaval) - Shasta did us dirty
Climbing partner and I attempted Shasta summit via Casaval Ridge on Sun June 2nd. Made good time up the ridge, later start than desired 4AM start out of Horse Camp. On the ridge proper at the gendarmes at 6 AM but DAMN if the traverse along the bottom of the gendarmes (to the base of the couloir leading to the hourglass) wasn't grueling due to soft snow conditions. Knee deep postholing. Even thought my buddy led the way, I would end up postholing thru his bootpack (started calling him twinkletoes). Unclear to me (from online beta) if anyone drops down into the gully here (losing elevation) and then ascends up towards the hourglass couloir along the softer fall line. If (big if) the snow conditions were firmer down there it would be the way to go. It seemed to me like the wind wasn't reaching the immediate west side of the gendarmes to create a decent snow crust AND the boot pack was non-existent. Anyway, thru the Traverse and then up the hourglass couloir right where it gets steep the wind picked up hard and we were in a whiteout but still pushing on. Through the top of the hourglass and onto part of the route that kisses the West Face where the winds were whipping (50 to 60 mph) but worst of all the clouds went from white to wet and it didn't so much rain on us as it was just being in wet cloud that was moving around us at fast speeds. In matter of minutes we were drenched (didn't have our rain pants on but eventually got them on) and at this point it was time to abandon the mission and even though I felt the fastest route back was traverse over to the west face and ascend the last 600' to the Summit Plateau and back down via Avy Gulch ... we opted for kill switch option of bombing down the West Face and getting out of the whipping wet clouds. Bad decision making dropped us 600' below horsecamp but we kinda saw that coming.
KTanner - Jan 3, 2024 10:07 am Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2017
Backlog
Summited in a day w/ dad. Started Avalanche Gulch, moved over to Casaval Ridge at Helen Lake bc I hate crowds.
DMac - May 20, 2023 1:37 am Date Climbed: May 18, 2023
Climbed via impromptu bivy
Departed TH 0630. Efficient ascent via Giddy Giddy Gully til around 11-12K’ when unacclimated and tougher travel conditions commenced. A couple brief 50ish pitch snowclimbs and careful, self anchoring (via axe pic) finagling of quicky melting shelf of catwalk crux delivered me to 13.3ish top around 1800. Affer recon to summit block and with solid weather forecast for the night, bivied at just under 14K’ summit block base. Summited next morn followed by phenom ski descent including west face gully. Epic if tiring adventure. Highly recommend the route for single day push more efficient a/o acclimated climbers.
tmbalboni - Feb 21, 2022 6:20 pm Date Climbed: Feb 19, 2022
Great Conditions
Great climb. Route was in good shape. Car to car trip with a descent down Avi Gulch.
AndrewDLB - May 5, 2020 2:41 pm Date Climbed: Mar 22, 2020
1 day with ski decsent in March
I decided to climb this route in 1 day. It was harder then I expected but through sheer will and mental determination I pulled it off! 14hrs from TH to summit. 2.75 hrs to ski down (mostly in white out) A beautiful route! but very hard as a 1 day climb (this was my first 14er) Watch the video for the full experience!
https://youtu.be/j1eVx3zDi_M
Harvest - Aug 2, 2017 3:13 pm Date Climbed: May 26, 2017
Fun climb
The Catwalk was out due to a landslide. Great conditions on the rest of the route.
adventurestreet - Mar 1, 2016 12:21 pm Date Climbed: Mar 16, 2012
long day
brutal 22 hour day of climbing. great accomplishment
MattDaddy56 - Sep 10, 2015 11:35 am Date Climbed: Apr 23, 2014
Unsuccessful
Plenty of snow and the route was good. Unfortunately I was injured prior to the climb so I only made it up to our high camp. My kids went a little further to check out the gendarme's and the catwalk and then returned to camp. Temps just above 0 deg and winds pretty high on first day. Beautiful route that I returned to do in 2015, but a recent heavy snow on top of a hardened crust left lots of unconsolidated snow conditions. Climbing rangers advised against an ascent so we climbed in Yosemite.
Good snow coverage, but thin...not sure how long it will hold up. Catwalk already partially/fully melted out in a couple spots. Skis would have been ideal for descent as the snow hasn't fully consolidated and as such descent on foot/snowshoes really sucked. Surprised by how few climbers we saw given the conditions, lots of skiers getting turns though. Season will definitely be moved up a bit this year, my guess would be a month ahead of normal.
WayneFry - Apr 9, 2014 1:35 am Date Climbed: Apr 7, 2014
Casaval classic
Climbed with a team of eight from SMC. Weather shut us down on the first day but not on the second. Perfect weather and great snow conditions. The finish at the top of the ridge is a true classic.
Casaval Ridge was melted at the hourglass and catwalk so we took the ridge as far as we could then cut over to the west face. The weather was perfect almost no wind except a little on the summit plateau.
It's looks like Green Butte and Casaval are done for the season. Avalanch Gulch still had plenty of snow. Misery Hill was almost completed melted and the switchbacks were exposed.
We also had a full moon! That gave us some awesome night views. Climbed with a party of 8 with Sierra Mountaineering Group.
FlaaenP - Apr 3, 2013 2:46 pm Date Climbed: May 8, 2012
Casaval in may
Really fun climb with some of my best friends. Pretty icy, difficult route finding, the catwalk was sketchy, and sulfur vents at the summit plateau nearly made me vomit. Almost didn't make the summit. But it was way fun. Great glissading down the gulch.
mrchad9 - Mar 31, 2013 11:04 pm Date Climbed: Mar 29, 2013
2x
Solo dayhike the first morning up, a bit thougher breaking trail the whole route without acclimating but it was well worth it. Just a bit of snow remaining on the catwalk still. By weather the following day proved the dayhike to be a good decision.
First climbed on May 1, 2011 as an overnight, lots of snow on the route that year and clear blue skies, just a little wind. The views were fantastic.
My brother and I climbed the Casaval Ridge as our first climb of Shasta. Great Route, great time, great weather. We spent the first night at 9800 and summited the next day and came back to spend the night again at high camp.
santanoni - May 29, 2012 5:50 pm Date Climbed: May 28, 2012
Good time
Good conditions all around, found the snow slopes a little easier than expected and catwalk just as sketchy as expected.
Possibly for the first time this winter, Casaval is now in fantastic shape. Party of 10 with Sierra Mountaineering Group left camp at 9600 and summited in firm snow with little wind at 9:45, descending Avy Gulch and traverse back to camp. Scenic and fun.
Dyon - Jun 4, 2024 10:05 am Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2024
(Casaval) - Shasta did us dirtyClimbing partner and I attempted Shasta summit via Casaval Ridge on Sun June 2nd. Made good time up the ridge, later start than desired 4AM start out of Horse Camp. On the ridge proper at the gendarmes at 6 AM but DAMN if the traverse along the bottom of the gendarmes (to the base of the couloir leading to the hourglass) wasn't grueling due to soft snow conditions. Knee deep postholing. Even thought my buddy led the way, I would end up postholing thru his bootpack (started calling him twinkletoes). Unclear to me (from online beta) if anyone drops down into the gully here (losing elevation) and then ascends up towards the hourglass couloir along the softer fall line. If (big if) the snow conditions were firmer down there it would be the way to go. It seemed to me like the wind wasn't reaching the immediate west side of the gendarmes to create a decent snow crust AND the boot pack was non-existent. Anyway, thru the Traverse and then up the hourglass couloir right where it gets steep the wind picked up hard and we were in a whiteout but still pushing on. Through the top of the hourglass and onto part of the route that kisses the West Face where the winds were whipping (50 to 60 mph) but worst of all the clouds went from white to wet and it didn't so much rain on us as it was just being in wet cloud that was moving around us at fast speeds. In matter of minutes we were drenched (didn't have our rain pants on but eventually got them on) and at this point it was time to abandon the mission and even though I felt the fastest route back was traverse over to the west face and ascend the last 600' to the Summit Plateau and back down via Avy Gulch ... we opted for kill switch option of bombing down the West Face and getting out of the whipping wet clouds. Bad decision making dropped us 600' below horsecamp but we kinda saw that coming.
KTanner - Jan 3, 2024 10:07 am Date Climbed: Jul 2, 2017
BacklogSummited in a day w/ dad. Started Avalanche Gulch, moved over to Casaval Ridge at Helen Lake bc I hate crowds.
DMac - May 20, 2023 1:37 am Date Climbed: May 18, 2023
Climbed via impromptu bivyDeparted TH 0630. Efficient ascent via Giddy Giddy Gully til around 11-12K’ when unacclimated and tougher travel conditions commenced. A couple brief 50ish pitch snowclimbs and careful, self anchoring (via axe pic) finagling of quicky melting shelf of catwalk crux delivered me to 13.3ish top around 1800. Affer recon to summit block and with solid weather forecast for the night, bivied at just under 14K’ summit block base. Summited next morn followed by phenom ski descent including west face gully. Epic if tiring adventure. Highly recommend the route for single day push more efficient a/o acclimated climbers.
tmbalboni - Feb 21, 2022 6:20 pm Date Climbed: Feb 19, 2022
Great ConditionsGreat climb. Route was in good shape. Car to car trip with a descent down Avi Gulch.
AndrewDLB - May 5, 2020 2:41 pm Date Climbed: Mar 22, 2020
1 day with ski decsent in MarchI decided to climb this route in 1 day. It was harder then I expected but through sheer will and mental determination I pulled it off! 14hrs from TH to summit. 2.75 hrs to ski down (mostly in white out) A beautiful route! but very hard as a 1 day climb (this was my first 14er) Watch the video for the full experience!
https://youtu.be/j1eVx3zDi_M
Harvest - Aug 2, 2017 3:13 pm Date Climbed: May 26, 2017
Fun climbThe Catwalk was out due to a landslide. Great conditions on the rest of the route.
adventurestreet - Mar 1, 2016 12:21 pm Date Climbed: Mar 16, 2012
long daybrutal 22 hour day of climbing. great accomplishment
MattDaddy56 - Sep 10, 2015 11:35 am Date Climbed: Apr 23, 2014
UnsuccessfulPlenty of snow and the route was good. Unfortunately I was injured prior to the climb so I only made it up to our high camp. My kids went a little further to check out the gendarme's and the catwalk and then returned to camp. Temps just above 0 deg and winds pretty high on first day. Beautiful route that I returned to do in 2015, but a recent heavy snow on top of a hardened crust left lots of unconsolidated snow conditions. Climbing rangers advised against an ascent so we climbed in Yosemite.
96avs01 - Apr 14, 2014 4:22 pm Date Climbed: Apr 12, 2014
Great RouteGood snow coverage, but thin...not sure how long it will hold up. Catwalk already partially/fully melted out in a couple spots. Skis would have been ideal for descent as the snow hasn't fully consolidated and as such descent on foot/snowshoes really sucked. Surprised by how few climbers we saw given the conditions, lots of skiers getting turns though. Season will definitely be moved up a bit this year, my guess would be a month ahead of normal.
WayneFry - Apr 9, 2014 1:35 am Date Climbed: Apr 7, 2014
Casaval classicClimbed with a team of eight from SMC. Weather shut us down on the first day but not on the second. Perfect weather and great snow conditions. The finish at the top of the ridge is a true classic.
sangus - Apr 29, 2013 2:51 pm Date Climbed: Apr 27, 2013
Perfect DayCasaval Ridge was melted at the hourglass and catwalk so we took the ridge as far as we could then cut over to the west face. The weather was perfect almost no wind except a little on the summit plateau.
It's looks like Green Butte and Casaval are done for the season. Avalanch Gulch still had plenty of snow. Misery Hill was almost completed melted and the switchbacks were exposed.
We also had a full moon! That gave us some awesome night views. Climbed with a party of 8 with Sierra Mountaineering Group.
FlaaenP - Apr 3, 2013 2:46 pm Date Climbed: May 8, 2012
Casaval in mayReally fun climb with some of my best friends. Pretty icy, difficult route finding, the catwalk was sketchy, and sulfur vents at the summit plateau nearly made me vomit. Almost didn't make the summit. But it was way fun. Great glissading down the gulch.
mrchad9 - Mar 31, 2013 11:04 pm Date Climbed: Mar 29, 2013
2xSolo dayhike the first morning up, a bit thougher breaking trail the whole route without acclimating but it was well worth it. Just a bit of snow remaining on the catwalk still. By weather the following day proved the dayhike to be a good decision.
First climbed on May 1, 2011 as an overnight, lots of snow on the route that year and clear blue skies, just a little wind. The views were fantastic.
jtree - Jun 24, 2012 12:23 am
First time!My brother and I climbed the Casaval Ridge as our first climb of Shasta. Great Route, great time, great weather. We spent the first night at 9800 and summited the next day and came back to spend the night again at high camp.
santanoni - May 29, 2012 5:50 pm Date Climbed: May 28, 2012
Good timeGood conditions all around, found the snow slopes a little easier than expected and catwalk just as sketchy as expected.
Vinny - May 25, 2012 2:18 pm
denied : (Ski attempt with Matt and Robin-2004 but we got weathered off.
fun ski out though.
Bill562 - Apr 29, 2012 9:15 pm Date Climbed: Apr 27, 2012
CasavalPart of team of six
dkangas - Apr 28, 2012 11:13 am Date Climbed: Apr 21, 2012
First TimeGreat Mountain!
Darren9 - Apr 22, 2012 8:28 pm Date Climbed: Apr 21, 2012
AwesomePossibly for the first time this winter, Casaval is now in fantastic shape. Party of 10 with Sierra Mountaineering Group left camp at 9600 and summited in firm snow with little wind at 9:45, descending Avy Gulch and traverse back to camp. Scenic and fun.
Vitaliy M. - Jul 1, 2011 3:19 pm
x2Once in 2010 as a Dayhike, once in 2011 as overnight.