mhengst - Nov 5, 2012 1:42 am Date Climbed: Nov 3, 2012
Exploring
Climbed S Dove (Peak 2), Dove BM, and NCB with Jeff Atijera and Anne Kircher. Fun area.
The little 5th class bit on Dove BM wasn't hard but the rock is disturbingly loose and it requires you commit to it just high enough where it's really going to hurt if you fall. I went out on the face to the left instead of into the crack like cp. We put a #2 BD cam into the crack at the bottom and I used a #1 to backup the anchor up top as I didn't like the look of the previous slung rock.
The route on NCB was a bit more straight forward than described. We came over from the west side of Dove BM, went straight up the obvious gully, and climbed an obvious spot I thought and either high 3rd or low 4th. It's vertical but there's enough handholds everyone made it up and down though its certainly easier coming down if there's someone to point out the footholds. There was a possible longer route to the right that had a sling placed as a possible rap anchor. From there almost directly above that there was an easy 3rd class wall and you're up top.
There is indeed an obnoxious bush on the "class 4" section of NCB, which makes the downclimb a bit blind. Fortunately, one can loop a sling over a very shallow projection at the top of the chute, then yank the sling off once down.
Dave Daly - Feb 17, 2009 2:36 am Date Climbed: Jan 17, 2009
Tick: Dove BM......#1 Scary Fin Is Next!
All plans (or "plans" we thought we plans) aside......Deb and I sought out this desert objective and found the crux to be reading someone elses directions. Well....for what its worth, we managed to make it to the summit. Short lived 5th class "gully". Got my eye on that cruddy fin!
First climbed Dove BM with 'day hiker' around about 2005. Went back 2-10-07 with 'MoapaPk' and bagged it again, then went over and bagged North Castle Butte.
MoapaPk - Feb 8, 2009 6:33 pm Date Climbed: Feb 10, 2007
been there
Climbed both Dove and NCB. Thanks to cp0915 for leading, when we were both sick as dogs.
Repeated Nov/09/2012 to scout for a club trip-- MH, thanks for the new sling. Free-climbed, used a handline on descent. Also climbed peak #2-- more interesting than I expected. Snow in the morning, so I was a bit worried about the rock. We popped a few loose cobbles out of Dove, just above and NW of the sling.
Jan 12/ 2013 went again to Dove and NCB. One guy popped out a cobble on the Dove crux-- be careful out there folks. There is a "wobbler" on the E side, near top, of the NCB crux; could not pry it loose.
The Dove register could use replacing +/or grease-- the can is rusting shut.
gimpilator - May 6, 2018 9:18 am Date Climbed: Jan 13, 2018
Dove, Castle, Harttrip report
tdoughty - Jan 26, 2015 8:59 pm
Terriblei'm so bad at logging my ascents! in the snow.
mhengst - Nov 5, 2012 1:42 am Date Climbed: Nov 3, 2012
ExploringClimbed S Dove (Peak 2), Dove BM, and NCB with Jeff Atijera and Anne Kircher. Fun area.
The little 5th class bit on Dove BM wasn't hard but the rock is disturbingly loose and it requires you commit to it just high enough where it's really going to hurt if you fall. I went out on the face to the left instead of into the crack like cp. We put a #2 BD cam into the crack at the bottom and I used a #1 to backup the anchor up top as I didn't like the look of the previous slung rock.
The route on NCB was a bit more straight forward than described. We came over from the west side of Dove BM, went straight up the obvious gully, and climbed an obvious spot I thought and either high 3rd or low 4th. It's vertical but there's enough handholds everyone made it up and down though its certainly easier coming down if there's someone to point out the footholds. There was a possible longer route to the right that had a sling placed as a possible rap anchor. From there almost directly above that there was an easy 3rd class wall and you're up top.
http://firstchurchofthemasochist.blogspot.com/2012/11/castle-peaks-in-mojave.html
MoapaPk - Nov 6, 2012 8:21 pm
Re: Exploring"The route on NCB was a bit more straight forward than described."
In what way? "{NCB is the} highest peak in the range, with a 15’ section of easy class 4 or class 3+."
ridgeard3230 - May 1, 2012 12:40 am Date Climbed: Apr 28, 2012
2nd timeClimbed Dove with Brandon back in 2007 but forgot to log it.
There is a solid anchor to protect the down climb.
Bob Burd - Dec 9, 2009 9:04 pm Date Climbed: Nov 22, 2009
Dove and NCBWith Matthew, did Hart Peak and Linder Peak in the morning, Castle Peaks in the afternoon. Trip Report
MoapaPk - May 18, 2010 11:13 am
Re: Dove and NCBThere is indeed an obnoxious bush on the "class 4" section of NCB, which makes the downclimb a bit blind. Fortunately, one can loop a sling over a very shallow projection at the top of the chute, then yank the sling off once down.
Dave Daly - Feb 17, 2009 2:36 am Date Climbed: Jan 17, 2009
Tick: Dove BM......#1 Scary Fin Is Next!All plans (or "plans" we thought we plans) aside......Deb and I sought out this desert objective and found the crux to be reading someone elses directions. Well....for what its worth, we managed to make it to the summit. Short lived 5th class "gully". Got my eye on that cruddy fin!
cp0915 - Feb 9, 2009 10:30 am
Couple TimesFirst climbed Dove BM with 'day hiker' around about 2005. Went back 2-10-07 with 'MoapaPk' and bagged it again, then went over and bagged North Castle Butte.
MoapaPk - Feb 8, 2009 6:33 pm Date Climbed: Feb 10, 2007
been thereClimbed both Dove and NCB. Thanks to cp0915 for leading, when we were both sick as dogs.
Repeated Nov/09/2012 to scout for a club trip-- MH, thanks for the new sling. Free-climbed, used a handline on descent. Also climbed peak #2-- more interesting than I expected. Snow in the morning, so I was a bit worried about the rock. We popped a few loose cobbles out of Dove, just above and NW of the sling.
Jan 12/ 2013 went again to Dove and NCB. One guy popped out a cobble on the Dove crux-- be careful out there folks. There is a "wobbler" on the E side, near top, of the NCB crux; could not pry it loose.
The Dove register could use replacing +/or grease-- the can is rusting shut.