I had heard that Ellingwood could be accessed from the South Zapata Creek Trail but it didn't sound like it was easy. Your excellent trip report confirmed that. A friend and I hiked up the South Zapata Creek Trail on July 4, 2005. We made it to within a mile of South Zapata Lake before turning around. I remember it being very hot that day. It was amazing to me that there was no one on the trail above the Zapata Falls on a holiday weekend. Good to hear that you didn't suffer any permanent damage and thanks for the report. I really enjoyed it.
You've got me wanting to climb Ellingwood's north ridge now, though I don't believe I'll try it from Zapata after reading your report!
Some people think I'm a flake for advising that one should wear long pants and gaiters when bushwhacking in the Sierra Blanca. Your report definitely lends credence to my recommendation ;)
Both my Dad and I unfortunately wore shorts while bushwhacking. My father's legs were disgusting after the trip: bruises, scrapes, and many bloody cuts!
Almost everywhere I've been in the west, the contour maps are quite deceiving. Perhaps it's the 40' interval, when a measly 20' cliff band can ruin your whole day! The newer "provisional" maps are often worse than the maps made by semi-manual photogrammetry in the 50s, 60s and 70s.
Great trip report! I've been intrigued by Ellingwood and Blanca for a while now. I'm definently going to have to get down there next summer. Glad you and your dad made it ok. Nice job!
Really enjoyed your report! I soloed this route last year, and ascended the couloir you describe. There was some snow at the top, but mostly loose talus. I was also pleasantly surprised by finding only class 3 on the upper NW Ridge to Ellingwood, exactly as you describe. Directly below the intersection of what you call the 'crossfire ridge', and the NW Ridge, it looks like it might go as lower 5th class.
I've got a bunch of pictures and a trip report posted on 14erworld. No one on that site seemed at all interested in an alternative route that avoids the crowds! This is a sporty alternative approach to Ellingwood/Blanca/Littlebear.
Roach's route description for the N Ridge on Ellingwood is not correct. Wonder if he even climbed it? The 5th class section is low on the ridge, below the intersection with the 'Crossfire Ridge' on your map. The ridge above this point is class 3.
work of making this ridge go! I have to say, this is definately an interesting approach to Ellingwood. Two friends and myself are seriously contemplating this route, or at least part of it in the next couple weeks or so.
How was the North Ridge to down climb? We'll be starting out climbing Little Bear and heading north all the way to California Peak or possibly the other direction.
Did you get a look at the ridge from the saddle on Ellingwood's North Ridge to Pt. 13,660 by chance? That's the only area that we have no beta on.
Good report, man!!!
It's been quite some time since I climbed this route, so I cannot remember anything about the ridge between Ellingwood and 13,660. Regarding the downclimb of Ellingwood's 'North Ridge,' I believe the section we climbed was only third class. I once climbed Little Bear, Blanca, and Ellingwood in a day and I thought that was a big day... Good luck extending that trek all the way to California Peak!!
Aaron Johnson - Aug 27, 2006 8:02 pm - Hasn't voted
Well doneWell written, great informative photos and handy info for those that may follow. Congrats on getting out of this one unscathed.
mico - Aug 29, 2006 2:48 pm - Voted 10/10
Great report.I had heard that Ellingwood could be accessed from the South Zapata Creek Trail but it didn't sound like it was easy. Your excellent trip report confirmed that. A friend and I hiked up the South Zapata Creek Trail on July 4, 2005. We made it to within a mile of South Zapata Lake before turning around. I remember it being very hot that day. It was amazing to me that there was no one on the trail above the Zapata Falls on a holiday weekend. Good to hear that you didn't suffer any permanent damage and thanks for the report. I really enjoyed it.
RyanS - Aug 29, 2006 4:13 pm - Voted 10/10
Very interesting reportYou've got me wanting to climb Ellingwood's north ridge now, though I don't believe I'll try it from Zapata after reading your report!
Some people think I'm a flake for advising that one should wear long pants and gaiters when bushwhacking in the Sierra Blanca. Your report definitely lends credence to my recommendation ;)
Mike Mc - Aug 30, 2006 3:35 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Very interesting reportBoth my Dad and I unfortunately wore shorts while bushwhacking. My father's legs were disgusting after the trip: bruises, scrapes, and many bloody cuts!
mpbro - Aug 29, 2006 4:20 pm - Hasn't voted
Great read!Very nicely written. What a trial! Hopefully you'll look back fondly...
MoapaPk - Aug 30, 2006 12:32 am - Voted 10/10
contour maps + cliffs = nadaAlmost everywhere I've been in the west, the contour maps are quite deceiving. Perhaps it's the 40' interval, when a measly 20' cliff band can ruin your whole day! The newer "provisional" maps are often worse than the maps made by semi-manual photogrammetry in the 50s, 60s and 70s.
Commando - Aug 30, 2006 12:51 am - Hasn't voted
WowGreat trip report! I've been intrigued by Ellingwood and Blanca for a while now. I'm definently going to have to get down there next summer. Glad you and your dad made it ok. Nice job!
rdb - Aug 30, 2006 6:36 pm - Voted 10/10
Also been there!Really enjoyed your report! I soloed this route last year, and ascended the couloir you describe. There was some snow at the top, but mostly loose talus. I was also pleasantly surprised by finding only class 3 on the upper NW Ridge to Ellingwood, exactly as you describe. Directly below the intersection of what you call the 'crossfire ridge', and the NW Ridge, it looks like it might go as lower 5th class.
I've got a bunch of pictures and a trip report posted on 14erworld. No one on that site seemed at all interested in an alternative route that avoids the crowds! This is a sporty alternative approach to Ellingwood/Blanca/Littlebear.
Roger Bloomfield
Mike Mc - Aug 31, 2006 2:47 pm - Hasn't voted
Re: Also been there!It's great to know others have tried this trek. I checked out your trip report on 14erworld, and it looked really good.
Jerry L - Aug 31, 2006 12:11 am - Hasn't voted
Good DadI love those father - son climbing trips. You all will have memories for years to come. It's a good read.
Andinistaloco - Aug 31, 2006 2:49 am - Voted 10/10
Right on!Nice tale! I've often felt that some of my best stories were epics that could've been prevented... and that way you learn something too. Good work.
doumall - Aug 25, 2008 3:21 pm - Hasn't voted
Ellingwook N RidgeRoach's route description for the N Ridge on Ellingwood is not correct. Wonder if he even climbed it? The 5th class section is low on the ridge, below the intersection with the 'Crossfire Ridge' on your map. The ridge above this point is class 3.
Kiefer - Sep 11, 2009 4:40 pm - Voted 10/10
Good...work of making this ridge go! I have to say, this is definately an interesting approach to Ellingwood. Two friends and myself are seriously contemplating this route, or at least part of it in the next couple weeks or so.
How was the North Ridge to down climb? We'll be starting out climbing Little Bear and heading north all the way to California Peak or possibly the other direction.
Did you get a look at the ridge from the saddle on Ellingwood's North Ridge to Pt. 13,660 by chance? That's the only area that we have no beta on.
Good report, man!!!
Mike Mc - Sep 16, 2009 11:26 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Good...It's been quite some time since I climbed this route, so I cannot remember anything about the ridge between Ellingwood and 13,660. Regarding the downclimb of Ellingwood's 'North Ridge,' I believe the section we climbed was only third class. I once climbed Little Bear, Blanca, and Ellingwood in a day and I thought that was a big day... Good luck extending that trek all the way to California Peak!!