ClimberMan420 - Jun 14, 2007 10:15 am - Hasn't voted
Chopicalqui
Chopicalqui is 6354m tall. It is probably the highest peak in the cordillera Blanca that offers a route that isn't very technical nor very exposed to objective hazards. Although avalanches could definetly be a hazard on the west ridge.
Access
Most people going to Chopicalqui will be coming from Huaraz. Everymorning from Huaraz a bus leaves from Los Andes transportes in the center at 6:30Am (15 soles)and goes directly up from Yungay past the LLanganulco lakes, Trekkers must buy a 30 day permit as the bus passes the gate of Huascaran National Park for 65 soles (20 dollars). If already in Yungay catch a rare collectivo minibus or hire a taxi for 15 soles a person. Any taxi driver or bus should know the turn to let you off on, its about 5 km past the Pisco trailhead at 4100-4200m.
note. I highly recomend climbing Pisco as a warm up as it is a very enjoyable climb and right across from Chopi. being well acclimatized is highly recomended for Chopi becauuse otherwise deep snow will be much harder to manage at 6000m
The base camp is located just a half hour walk from the trailhead with water that should be treated. Morraine camp is at about 5000m 3-5 hours and is a nice place to acclimatize although an effort is made to get water that usually flows off teh glacier 150m from camp. It is a possibility that there might not be water here. Leave early to make high camp at 5600m. I definetly recomend roping up. Sort of follow bottom of rock cliffs that turn up ridge expect 4 hhours but glacier hear gets very hot and soft at 10am. Glacier camp is a small flat area 50 m below teh ridge crest that seems relatively shetered.
The West Ridge.
The ridge starts off broad not to steep. The route will be changing but in generla try to stay near its crest as this is the most direct and seems to be teh most reliable line. WE Were first up for the 07 season and all crevasses were filled in and route finding was no problem. Half way up the ridge gets very sharp and steap to over 55 degrees. It is quite exposed and setting some snow stakes or climbing solo would be a good idea. From the summit shoulder you are just below the peak but here is the crux of teh climb. On teh west ridge the summit pyramid drops in a traversing 2-3 meter cliff with a crevasse running under it. This is a new feature on the mountain and is not easy to negotiate in any way. When we were there the crevasse was mostly filled in but the ice cliff was caked in snow and rotten ice. The best way would be to work at it and spend some time hacking through it although this is tiring at 6320m. Somw parties have rappeled down 25m to the south side and then climbed a direct line free of cliffs up on to the summit.
It was so bad when we were there that we didnt make any serious attempts and gave up regretably. The fact is that all way were seriously commiting and there was no way to set ice screws or good stakes.
Descend the same route. If you like the look of teh route on the way up then I would walk down solo. If you hurry you can easily make it back to Huaraz that night. a bus passes by the trailhead at 3:30 PM and other traffic later.
To my knowledge, the most often quoted altitude is 6354m, not 6345, and I have changed the page to reflect that. If you have any source for your figure, I would be very interested in it.
As for the info from the previous poster, the "problem" is that it mostly addresses the main route on the mountain, which already has its own page (which I do not own), and I want to avoid duplication of information.
To my knowledge, the most often quoted altitude is 6354m, not 6345, and I have changed the page to reflect that. If you have any source for your figure, I would be very interested in it.
The reason why erroneous statements lives on as facts is because they're repeated.
Source: http://www.andes.org.uk/andes-information-files/6000m-peaks.asp
This is the most accurate list you can find. I have difficulties to see there are any major errors in that list at all. John Biggar, who's behind the list works together with the true experts in the field. Amongst those are persons who deliver raw data to for example Google Earth.
Great. Thanks. I have raised the vote a little bit and will up it more when additions are made. In my opinion, the page is still a bit thin.
You may consider adding Huaraz, Peru as a child to the page. There's a lot of really good info to be found on that page.
http://www.summitpost.org/logistical-center/559932/huaraz-peru.html
ClimberMan420 - Jun 14, 2007 10:15 am - Hasn't voted
ChopicalquiChopicalqui is 6354m tall. It is probably the highest peak in the cordillera Blanca that offers a route that isn't very technical nor very exposed to objective hazards. Although avalanches could definetly be a hazard on the west ridge.
Access
Most people going to Chopicalqui will be coming from Huaraz. Everymorning from Huaraz a bus leaves from Los Andes transportes in the center at 6:30Am (15 soles)and goes directly up from Yungay past the LLanganulco lakes, Trekkers must buy a 30 day permit as the bus passes the gate of Huascaran National Park for 65 soles (20 dollars). If already in Yungay catch a rare collectivo minibus or hire a taxi for 15 soles a person. Any taxi driver or bus should know the turn to let you off on, its about 5 km past the Pisco trailhead at 4100-4200m.
note. I highly recomend climbing Pisco as a warm up as it is a very enjoyable climb and right across from Chopi. being well acclimatized is highly recomended for Chopi becauuse otherwise deep snow will be much harder to manage at 6000m
The base camp is located just a half hour walk from the trailhead with water that should be treated. Morraine camp is at about 5000m 3-5 hours and is a nice place to acclimatize although an effort is made to get water that usually flows off teh glacier 150m from camp. It is a possibility that there might not be water here. Leave early to make high camp at 5600m. I definetly recomend roping up. Sort of follow bottom of rock cliffs that turn up ridge expect 4 hhours but glacier hear gets very hot and soft at 10am. Glacier camp is a small flat area 50 m below teh ridge crest that seems relatively shetered.
The West Ridge.
The ridge starts off broad not to steep. The route will be changing but in generla try to stay near its crest as this is the most direct and seems to be teh most reliable line. WE Were first up for the 07 season and all crevasses were filled in and route finding was no problem. Half way up the ridge gets very sharp and steap to over 55 degrees. It is quite exposed and setting some snow stakes or climbing solo would be a good idea. From the summit shoulder you are just below the peak but here is the crux of teh climb. On teh west ridge the summit pyramid drops in a traversing 2-3 meter cliff with a crevasse running under it. This is a new feature on the mountain and is not easy to negotiate in any way. When we were there the crevasse was mostly filled in but the ice cliff was caked in snow and rotten ice. The best way would be to work at it and spend some time hacking through it although this is tiring at 6320m. Somw parties have rappeled down 25m to the south side and then climbed a direct line free of cliffs up on to the summit.
It was so bad when we were there that we didnt make any serious attempts and gave up regretably. The fact is that all way were seriously commiting and there was no way to set ice screws or good stakes.
Descend the same route. If you like the look of teh route on the way up then I would walk down solo. If you hurry you can easily make it back to Huaraz that night. a bus passes by the trailhead at 3:30 PM and other traffic later.
Corax - Oct 6, 2009 8:56 pm - Voted 6/10
Correct pleaseCorrect the altitude to 6345m. See also post above. You can improve the page a lot with that info.
nattfodd - Oct 14, 2009 2:38 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Correct pleaseTo my knowledge, the most often quoted altitude is 6354m, not 6345, and I have changed the page to reflect that. If you have any source for your figure, I would be very interested in it.
As for the info from the previous poster, the "problem" is that it mostly addresses the main route on the mountain, which already has its own page (which I do not own), and I want to avoid duplication of information.
Corax - Oct 14, 2009 5:52 am - Voted 6/10
Re: Correct pleaseTo my knowledge, the most often quoted altitude is 6354m, not 6345, and I have changed the page to reflect that. If you have any source for your figure, I would be very interested in it.
The reason why erroneous statements lives on as facts is because they're repeated.
Source: http://www.andes.org.uk/andes-information-files/6000m-peaks.asp
This is the most accurate list you can find. I have difficulties to see there are any major errors in that list at all. John Biggar, who's behind the list works together with the true experts in the field. Amongst those are persons who deliver raw data to for example Google Earth.
nattfodd - Oct 14, 2009 8:13 am - Hasn't voted
Re: Correct pleaseThanks for the information, all I was looking for was a reliable source. I have edited the page again with your figure.
Corax - Oct 14, 2009 6:04 pm - Voted 6/10
Re: Correct pleaseGreat. Thanks. I have raised the vote a little bit and will up it more when additions are made. In my opinion, the page is still a bit thin.
You may consider adding Huaraz, Peru as a child to the page. There's a lot of really good info to be found on that page.
http://www.summitpost.org/logistical-center/559932/huaraz-peru.html
perudave - Jul 13, 2010 11:26 am - Hasn't voted
water purification tabletsAlthough I haven't seen iodine based purification tablets about, blister packs of micropur tablets are available at various pharmacys in Huaraz.