Construction page

Summit	Elevation in Metersa.s.l.	Photo	A few words about
Vânturariţa Mare	1885		The highest summit with a sheer drop on its W face. It stands 2 km NE from the Buila pass, on the main ridge. It is reached by a red dot trail.
Vioreanu	1866		The 2nd highest summit, about half a kilometer NE from Vânturariţa Mare. It can be climbed via an unmarked path, difficult access.
Buila	1849		It has a craggy NW face. In the central part of the main ridge, about 1 km NE from the Buila pass. A red dot traverse.
Stevioara	1847		Like pretty much of the main ridge, the summit has a precipitous, cliffy NW face, which contrasts sharply with the gentle, grassy SE slope.It stands in the central part of the main ridge, about 1 km SW from Vânturariţa Mare. A red dot traverse.
Albu	1659		Isolated cliffs dotted with spruce trees.In the central part of the main ridge, just half a kilometre NE from the Buila pass. Red dots.
Piatra	1643		In the southwest stretch of the main ridge, opposite Albu across the Buila pass.Red dots.
Claia Ţucla	1581		This crag stands off the main ridge, about half a kilometer to the SSE from the Buila pass. It is reached by a blue cross trail.
Claia Strâmba	1379		A vertical limestone wall towering almost 400 meters above the bottom of the Cheia gorge.In the NE part of the main ridge. An unmarked path to the top.
Stogşoare	1270		A wild, forested jumble of crags opposite Claia Strâmba, on the NE side of the Cheia gorge. A yellow cross traverse.

One of the most impressive karst features is the rock arch named Casa de Piatra (The House of Rock), located half a kilometre NW of Pătrunsa hermitage. The Cheia Gorge (also known as the Recea Gorge) is about one kilometre long, 300 m deep and – at its narrowest place – just two meters wide. Most of the time, the river is merely a brook, which cascades over limestone boulders, until at some point (Sorbul Mare) it disappears into a swallow hole to resurge several hundred meters away.

Claia Strâmba

Cheia Gorge from Fotoreporter Ridge

<br=clear all="">

Rock Climbing

    Rock climbing is concentrated on the walls of the canyons carved by the Olăneşti, Cheia, Costeşti and Bistriţa rivers. There are 76 climbing routes in 10 different areas. Details can be found on the national park's website.

UNESCO WHS

2007 UNESCO WHS

Location	Photo	Core zone (ha)	A few words	Status
Uholka-Shyrokyi Luh (UA)		11 860	The largest virgin beech woodland in Europe with the tallest beech specimens in the world. 65 different forest communities across a range of environmental conditions, with beech trees up to 55 m in height and 130 cm in diameter and with a number of endemic and relict species, form this so called phytocoenotic core of the Carpathian Biosphere Reserve	Biosphere Reserve
Svydovets (UA)		3 030	Diverse beech forest communities and the richest flora in the Ukrainian Carpathians	Biosphere Reserve
Stužica-Bukovské vrchy (SK)		2 950	Perhaps the most beautiful pristine beech-fir woodland in the Carpathians (400 old fir trees with 1,8 m diameter and more than 50 m tall). A continuous complex of primeval beech forests comprising four forest preserves and parts of the core zone of Poloniny National Park, extending along the Slovakian, Ukrainian and Polish borders, and connecting directly to Stuzhytsia-Uzhok	National Nature Reserve
Vihorlat (SK)		2 578	National Nature Reserve contains primeval beech forests on volcanic bedrock in military zone.	Protected Landscape Area
Stuzhytsia-Uzhok (UA)		2 532	The first forest preserve was established in 1908. A part of the Uzhanskyi National Park containing mature beech forests, extending along the Ukrainian, Slovakian and Polish borders, and connecting directly to Stužica-Bukovské Vrchy.	National Nature Reserve
Chornohora (UA)		2 476	Diverse beech-fir-spruce forest communities and representative of what natural beech forests originally looked like in much of Central Europe	Biosphere Reserve
Maramarosh (UA)		2 244	Mostly mixed beech-spruce and beech-fir forests in strictly protected forbidden zone. Since 1912 one of the oldest preserves in Transcarpathia has been established in this territory.	Biosphere Reserve
Kuziy-Trybushany (UA)		1 370	Oak-beech-fir forests remarkable because of their diverse forest communities and 35 Red Data Book species	Biosphere Reserve
Havešová (SK)		171	Nearly homogenous, largely mono-dominant mature beech forests and the tallest and largest European beech specimens in the world.	National Nature Reserve
Rožok (SK)		67	Nearly homogenous, largely monodominant mature beech forests.	National Nature Reserve

2017 UNESCO WHS

Location	Photo	Core zone (ha)	A few words	Status
Domogled-Coronini-Bedina (RO)		5 110	High degree of naturalness occuring in a landscape covered with about 72% of forest predominantly formed of beech trees. In 1932 Mt.Domogled reserve was established as one of the first of its kind in Romania.	Nature Reserve
Izvoarele Nerei (RO)		4 677	One of the largest remnant virgin forests of temperate Europe. Maximum age of the most impressive tree is estimated to be 477 years.	Nature Reserve
Stužica-Bukovské vrchy (SK)		2 950	Perhaps the most beautiful pristine beech-fir woodland in the Carpathians (400 old fir trees with 1,8 m diameter and more than 50 m tall). A continuous complex of primeval beech forests comprising four forest preserves and parts of the core zone of Poloniny National Park, extending along the Slovakian, Ukrainian and Polish borders, and connecting directly to Stuzhytsia-Uzhok	National Nature Reserve
Vihorlat (SK)		2 578	National Nature Reserve contains primeval beech forests on volcanic bedrock in military zone.	Protected Landscape Area
Stuzhytsia-Uzhok (UA)		2 532	The first forest preserve was established in 1908. A part of the Uzhanskyi National Park containing mature beech forests, extending along the Ukrainian, Slovakian and Polish borders, and connecting directly to Stužica-Bukovské Vrchy.	National Nature Reserve
Chornohora (UA)		2 476	Diverse beech-fir-spruce forest communities and representative of what natural beech forests originally looked like in much of Central Europe	Biosphere Reserve
Maramarosh (UA)		2 244	Mostly mixed beech-spruce and beech-fir forests in strictly protected forbidden zone. Since 1912 one of the oldest preserves in Transcarpathia has been established in this territory.	Biosphere Reserve
Kuziy-Trybushany (UA)		1 370	Oak-beech-fir forests remarkable because of their diverse forest communities and 35 Red Data Book species	Biosphere Reserve
Havešová (SK)		171	Nearly homogenous, largely mono-dominant mature beech forests and the tallest and largest European beech specimens in the world.	National Nature Reserve
Rožok (SK)		67	Nearly homogenous, largely monodominant mature beech forests.	National Nature Reserve

Red Tape & Camping

    Although the territory of Velká Fatra was declared National Park, bivouacing (one night) is possible in a circle of 50 meters outside the existing huts, hostels, refuges, log cabins and chalets. Moreover, NP authorities permitted making use of these designated campsites:

• Memorial of Slovak National Uprising by Kráľova studňa (1380m)
• Pod Suchým vrchom (1380m)
• Chyžky saddle (1310m)
• Smrekovica-Močidlo (1305m)
• Šiprúň (1277m) - former chalet
• Rakytovy Grúň (1226m) near Kľak

Weather & Rescue Service

    Mountain rescue teams are present at Donovaly and Malinô Brdo.Ski resorts:

• Jasenská dolina
• Park Snow Donovaly
• Ski Turecká
• Ski park Malino Brdo

Căpăţânii Mountains

NB Both writers of this page have had tense encounters with sheepdogs in the Romanian Carpathians, but only once has each of us been bitten by a sheepdog – both incidents took place in the Căpățânii Mountains.

The Căpățânii Mountains are an east-west trending range that is part of the Parâng group and spans about 40 km between the Făgăraş and the Cozia mountains in the east, beyond the Olt River, and the Parâng Mountains in the west. The north boundary of the Căpățânii is formed by the Latorița and Lotru rivers, which separate the Căpățânii from the Latorița range (usually regarded as part of the Parâng Mountains) and the Lotru mountains. In the west, the main ridge of the Căpățânii is divided from the main ridge of the Parâng by the pass named Curmătura Oltețului at 1615 m. The southern frontier of the Căpățânii is the subcarpathian zone and the Polovragi-Horezu depression.

The main ridge of the Căpățânii, formed of metamorphic rocks, mainly crystalline schists, is rather gentle and grassy like the other ranges in the Parâng group except the Parâng Mountains. The rolling summits, long lateral ridges which trend south, timberline at 1800 m or less (as it has often been lowered by man) are conducive to intensive pastoral activity.

Despite this and the fact that the Căpățânii is one of the lowest ranges in the Parâng group, it is the second most interesting range in the group (after the Parâng Mountains), owing to large areas formed of limestone and dolomite, whose most spectacular sections are the Buila-Vânturariţa massif at 1885 m in the southeast and a smaller ridge of Târnovu (1880 m) in the northwest. Calcareous rocks breeding karst landforms also occur in the southwest corner of the Căpăţânii, between Olteţ and Horezu creeks (Olteţ canyon, Polovragi cave, Taraia and Cerna ravines). The northeast corner of the Căpățânii is an inhospitable maze of relatively low, but complicated in terms of geology (gneiss, conglomerate, limestone, marl) and morphology, heavily forested mountains - similar to the Cozia Mountains across the Olt River, but wilder and less visited - whose highpoint is Narăţu at 1509m. Since 2017, its most valuable cluster of pristine woodland encompassing Lotrişor creek is on UNESCO's World Natural Heritage List as part of Ancient and Primeval Beech Forests of the Carpathians and Other Regions of Europe. The main ridge of the Căpăţânii Mountains rises in the east, just below where the Lotru River empties into the Olt, to the summit of Foarfeca (824 m), then Sturii lui Pavel (1380m) and Narăţu (1509 m). Then the ridge turns southwest to Sturii Olaneştilor (1415 m) to soon curve back north. From Vf.lui Stan (1450 m) the main ridge runs west via the following summits: Folea (1647 m), Gera (1886 m), Vf.Preota (1954 m), Ionaşcu (1979 m), Zmeuret (1938 m), Văleanu (1847 m), Cocora (1895 m), Ursu (2124 m), Coşana (2041 m), Căpăţâna (2097 m), Funicelu (1948 m) and Beleoaia (2036 m). There the main ridge veers north towards its highpoint, i.e. Nedeia (2130 m), from which it runs northwest, skirting the summits of Negovanu (2064 m), Turcinu (1963 m) and Boul (1913 m) to finally end after approximately 75 km at Curmătura Olteţului in the west. Slight traces of Pleistocene glacial activity can be found in the highest segment, especially around the summit of Ursu. A south-north transect of the Căpăţânii would reveal an asymmetric structure – the lateral ridges (called plaiuri by the locals) branching off the main ridge to run north are steeper and shorter (max. 9 km) than the southern branches (max. 15 km). For the hiker, the most important is the ridge which runs southeast from Govora (1958m, south of the town of Malaia) via Lespezi and Scânteia summits, thus linking the main ridge of the Căpăţânii Mountains with the Buila-Vânturariţa massif.

North of the main ridge, about an hour's walk-up southwest from the village of Malaia, sits one of the tallest waterfalls in all of the Carpathians, Cascada Scoruşu/lui Ciucă, whose height is estimated to be between 80 and 100 meters.

Getting There

    The easiest access to the Căpățânii Mountains is from the east, where a major railway line and road E81 run along the gorge of the Olt River which splits the Southern Carpathians meridionally. However, the easternmost part of the Căpățânii is a heavily forested maze of medium-height ridges, usually omitted by hikers. The most convenient entry into the heart of the mountains is from the north, from road 7A running west from the town of Brezoi at the northeast corner of the Căpățânii up the valley of the Lotru River. To hike the main ridge one may prefer the pass of Curmătura Olteţului as a start point. The pass, which forms the east end of the Căpățânii, is crossed by the Transalpina (road 67C) and – as elsewhere in the mountains of Romania – you are quite likely to hitch a ride there. At the south foot of the mountains runs road 67, but that is about twenty air kilometers from the main ridge.

Camping and Red Tape

  You can pitch your tent virtually anywhere except the Buila-Vânturariţa National Park, where several campgrounds have been designated. There are some unmanned refuges and a couple of mountain huts in these mountains as well.

Refuge	Elevation (meters)	Photo	Distance from nearest source of water	Capacity (persons)	Location/Access
Cabana Cheia	900			25	In the upper part of a namesake canyon, blue triangles or yellow stripes from Cheia village, red triangles from Zmeuret massif.
Ursu	1800		50 m to the south	16	In the central segment of the mountains, about 3 km from the summit of Ursu, stove and firewood, red triangles from Vaideeni or Curmatura Piatra Roşie.
Căşăria	1800		10 m	16	In the western part, about 2 km S of Funicel massif, stove and firewood, yellow cross from Funicelu saddle (about an hour's walk from the main ridge), blue stripes from Vaideeni, red dots from Balota lake.
Gerea/Geruţa	1600		100 m	14	In the eastern section, about 1 km E from Gera summit, red stripes from Valea lui Stan or Zmeuret massif.
Buila	1560		150 m to the south	12	In the central part of the Buila-Vânturariţa massif, on the main ridge trail (red dots), yellow dots from Patrunsa, blue crosses from Barbatesti, reconstructed in 2009.
Piscul cu brazi	1600		200 m	12	In the northern sector of the Buila-Vânturariţa massif, about 2 km NW of its highpoint, red triangles from Pietreni village or Cheia canyon, reconstructed in 2011.

Maps & Guidebooks

  A perfect online map can be studied HEREA 2012 guidebook by Gheorghe Ploaie can be purchased HEREAccording to Gheorghe Ploaie´s BLOG, both printed documents can be obtained for FREE at the Office of Vaideeni Commune.The owner of this page happened to be given a map of the mountains at the foot of Funicelu summit. Thanks!

Weather & Rescue Service

Weather forecast for the highpointMountain Rescueversion 1.0Being natural extension of the Parâng massif, the Căpăţânii Mountains with an area of almost 1 000 sq km belong in the Southern Carpathians. The Olt river divides the Căpăţânii Mountains from the Cozia massif (E) and the Făgăraş Mountains (NE). Their northern boundary is formed by the Lotru river, separating them from namesake mountains, while the Latoriței Mountains create NW limit. The southern boundary is the subcarpathian zone and Polovragi-Horezu depression.

The principal ridge of the Căpăţânii Mountains lifts just behind great meander (hook) of the Olt river named Cârligul Mare in the easternmost segment. After about 75 km it ends at Curmătura Olteţului far in the west, including these summits: Foarfeca (824 m) - Sturii lui Pavel (1380m) - Narăţu (1509 m). Then continue towards SW to Sturii Olaneştilor (1415 m) and takes sharp turn to NW, reaching Vf.lui Stan (1450 m). From here the main crest runs to the west via Vf.Folea (1647 m) - Vf.Gera (1886 m) - Vf.Preota (1954 m) - Vf.Ionaşcu (1979 m) - Vf.Zmeuret (1938 m) - Vf.Văleanu (1847 m) - Vf.Cocora (1895 m) - Vf.Ursu (2124 m) - Vf.Coşana (2041 m) - Vf.Căpăţâna (2097 m) - Vf.Funicelu (1948 m) - Vf.Beleoaia (2036 m). Then the main ridge trail goes on towards the north culminating in Vf.NEDEIA (2130 m) - the highpoint of the Căpăţânii Mountains. After that it winds to NW skirting the massifs of Negovanu (2064 m) - Turcinu (1963 m) and Boul (1913 m). Rounded summits and rolling hills with prolonged S-oriented secondary ridges and mountain glades provide suitable conditions for intensive pastoral activity (timberline at 1800 m). On the contrary, the most remarkable feature is the presence of two parallel limestone massifs oriented NE-SW: higher Buila-Vânturariţa (SE) and lower Târnovu (NW) with distinctive relief full of karst landforms. East of the principal crest there is vast inhospitable country Narăţ massif made of gneisses and conglomerates which result in rather complicated relief.

Massif	Photo	Location/Delimitation	Relief/Geology	Highpoint/Connecting ridge
Buila-Vânturariţa		SE/Olanesti river	14 km long ridge made of limestones and dolomites, jagged skyline, rugged vertical cliffs, plethora of karst features, cliffy NW face, gentle E slope, four gorges, more than 100 cavities, NP since 2004 (the smallest in Romania).	Vânturariţa Mare 1885/Govora-Lespezi-Scânteia (blue stripes)
Târnovu		NW/Latoriţa-Repedea rivers	Representative calcareous intrusion into the mountain massif of the Căpăţânii of metamorphic origin. About 10 km long distinctive ridge oriented SW-NE, W segment dominated by fragmented sharp crest with cliffy walls, impressive abrupts, couloirs and chimneys - Piatra Târnovului preserve - in stark contrast with the alpine glades of Târnovu summits, moderate SE slope and steep NW face, in recent years the timberline moved forward stabilizing the rocky terrain, which has been enriched by new flora species. SCI with 10 types of habitats (1366 ha), including Pădurea Latoriţa (larch woodland) with admixture of Arolla pine, reaching remarkable altitude (1800 m) - especially picturesque scenery in autumn. Red dot main ridge trail, blue striped traverse of SE face	Piatra Târnovului (1880m)/Negovanu saddle-Gropiţa pass (blue dot/stripe)
Narăţ		NE/Lotru-Olt	Distinctive "Stone Forest" full of anthropo and zoomorphic cliffs, pinnacles, needles made of gneisses, conglomerates and limestones, chutes with precipices dotted with patches of glades, hardly accessible ravines and gullies with exposed passages luring advanced scramblers and adventurers, lush vegetation cover and increased presence of vipers and scorpions, lack of fresh water sources. Wildest and least visited segment of the Căpăţânii. NP Cozia	Narăţu (1509m)/Vf.lui Stan - Mocirle saddle - Clăia cu brazi.

From the treker´s perspective, the morphology of the main crest is relatively compact in the alpine segment from the Oltet pass to Muntisoru saddle (about 50 km), reaching higher altitudes in the western part. Due to the fact, that main ridge trail skirts S faces of the mountains (gravel road often utilized by SUV´s), this result in virtually none problems with orientation (except misty weather conditions:). Medium width of the principal ridge is about 20 km, but owing to its asymetric axis the northern slopes are shorter (max.9 km) and steeply inclined, while the southern ones are prolonged (max.15 km) and gentle. There are countless spurs (called plaiuri by the locals). The most significant secondary ridge towards the north extends from Negovanu saddle (parallel with the Latorita valley), connecting grassy alpine region with craggy Tarnovu massif. Although Nedeii and Frasanet belong in the longest southern spurs (about 25 km), the most important (from a hiker´s point of view) is the ridge stretching from Govora massif via Lespezi and Scanteia summits, linking the B-V range with the main crest of the Căpăţânii Mountains (bearing its name due to skull-shaped Căpăţâna-Balota massif:).From geologic point of view, the Căpăţânii Mountains can be divided into three different zones: In the west (between Oltet and Horezu creeks) granits, gneisses and calcareous rocks predominate. The central part (from Horezu to lui Stan creek) is dominated by crystalline schists, while in the eastern sector marls, conglomerates and jurassic limestones appear. Remarkable karst zones are to be found especially in the SE (Bistrita, Costesti, Cheia, Olanesti gorges, the caves of Stogsoare and Stogu massifs), SW (Oltet canyon plus Polovragi cave accessible to a public, Taraia and Cerna ravines) and NW (cavities and abysses of Piatra Tarnovu).Traces of recent glacial activity are worth mentioning especially in the highest segment around summits of Negovanu, Nedeia, Căpăţâna and Ursu.Vast area of the Căpăţânii Mountains boasts the highest concentration of sacred sites in Romania featuring monasteries and hermitages of exceptional cultural and historical value.The main natural landmark represents Cascada Scorosu/lui Ciuca. Its height is estimated to be about 100 meters, thus belongs in the grandest waterfalls of the Carpathians. The biggest hydroenergetic internal river system in Romania - Lotru-Ciunget including Malaia and Bradisor reservoirs is to be found north of the Căpăţânii Mountains.

Video by LukZem

The table below lists the highest and some other important summits outside the Buila-Vânturariţa massif.</br=clear>

Summit	Elevation in meters	Photo	A few words about
Nedeia	2130		A pyramid-shaped highpoint guarding the valley of Repedea, formed of crystalline schists. In the western part of the main ridge. Horizontal tracks traverse its sides and there is a red dot trail to its top.
Ursu	2124		The second highest peak. A cliffy north face and and a small cirque on the east side of the mountain. Perhaps the best vantage point in the range. In the central part of the main ridge. Red stripe traverse.
Căpăţâna	2097		This mountain, to some resembling a skull, gave the name to the entire range. A partly wooded north side, grassy south slopes, crooked woodland on the west side. In the central section. Red stripe traverse.
Negovanu	2064		A dome decorated with a necklet of tiny chutes. From the namesake saddle extends a ridge that connects the main ridge with the Târnovu massif. In the western part, about 2 km northwest of Nedeia. Red stripe traverse of S side, blue stripe traverse of W side.
Ionaşcu	1979		The highest summit of Zmeuret massif, south of the village of Malaia. In the eastern segment. Red stripe traverse.
Preota	1954		A rounded summit around 2 km northeast of Ionaşcu. Red stripe traverse.
Funicelu	1948		Rounded massif with Coasta Lacurilor lateral ridge stretching towards the south. In the western section. Red/blue stripe, yellow cross traverse.
Zmeuret	1938		The first summit of a namesake massif when seen from the west. In the eastern part. Red and blue stripe traverse.
Piatra Târnovului	1880		An impressive limestone crag with cliffs, couloirs, chimneys and caverns. A great viewpoint and a nature reserve. In the southwestern tip of the Târnovu massif, opposite the highest summit of the Căpăţânii. Red dot trail to its top, blue striped traverse of its south side.

The table below lists the most attractive natural and cultural sites of the Căpăţânii Mountains that sit away from its summits.

Name	Photo	Status	Short description
Abruptul Prahovean Bucegi		Nature Reserve	The most extensive protected territory with an area of almost 3500 ha. Varied relief with 1200 elevation gain boasts rocky outcrops, cliffy walls, couloirs, corries, sheer drops, needles, lapies, dolines, mountain glades and pristine woodland.
Sfinxul		Monument of Nature	This 8 m tall and 12 m wide megalith has its clearest outline on November 21st resembling that of Egypt´s Great Sphinx of Giza. The first photo of this hotbed of folklore and conspiracy theories was probably taken 1900.
Lacul Țigănești			Created by mechanical action of snow, this tiny tarn sits at 2050 m elevation.
Cheile Tatarului		Nature Reserve	A kilometre long canyon with the most spectacular segment called Tatarul Mare. This protected territory with an area of 145 ha preserves ravines, dolines, lapies, cavities, blockfields, alpine glades and fossil deposits in the limestone layers. Legend has it, that ethnic group from Mongolia - Tatars - were charmed by the beauty of the Bucegi Mountains. Suddenly, they started to change their minds and forgot to loot. They rushed in order to share their experience with loved ones. When passing through this place, they haven´t registered losing all their treasures stolen in the other empires.
Peștera Ialomiței			In C18 the monks from Sinaia Monastery established small hermitage at the entrance. The first historical record was made by I.Kleinlauf in 1793. The first description of the cave was completed in 1897 and the first research was conducted in 1953. Since 1967, the Ialomita cave has been electrified. Carved in limestone at 1560 m elevation, the Ialomita cave is more than one kilometre long, from which 400 m is accessible to the public without a guide. It is made up of active and fossil galleries arranged over two floors. The temperature varies between 5 to 6 °C and humidity ranges 85-100%.
Mănăstirea Caraiman			Founded in 1998, it has in its center unique fir tree with six branches. It is situated at the foot of namesake peak adorned with a cross.
Cascada Urlatoarea			A 15 m tall waterfall.
Turbaria Laptici		Botanical Reserve	Covers an area of 15 ha with 1 m thick layers of turf. A relic from the glacial period called Salix myrtiloides grows here at the southernmost habitat in all of Europe.
Babele		Monument of Nature	Mushroom shaped rock formations are the result of erosion and varying hardness of rock layers made of conglomerates. The legend has it, that Traian tried to entice a shepherd´s girl with wealth. When a shepherd expressed his will to stay here forever, they turned into the rock...
Portița Caraimanului			Natural rocky window accessible via an unmarked path named Brâul Portiței..
Mănăstirea Ialomiței			Consecrated in 1996.
Cheile Zanoagei		Nature Reserve	Carved in Jurrasic limestones on a length of about 2 km boasting more than 200 m tall cliffy walls encompassed by pristine woodland .
Lacul Bolboci			Nicknamed as the Sea of the Bucegi it was constructed in 1928..
Arcada din Valea Gaura			An interesting rock arch can be found near red striped hiking trail.
Pietrele Stroieştilor			An interesting formation of vertical lapies located by a yellow cross/blue stripe trail, a stone's throw from Căşăria refuge.
Cascada Lotrişor			A man-made 30 meters tall cascade located in its namesake gorge. Accessible via red dots.
Peştera Polovragi		Nature Reserve	Fossil meander of the Olteţ located about 25 meters above its riverbed at 670 meters altitude. It is the secondary cave shaped in jurassic limestone and consists of 11 km long galleries of which a guided tour measures about 700 meters. Polovragi cave has optimal conditions with constatnt temperature of 9 degrees Celsius and 90 % humidity. As for the specific formations, columns, curtains, parietals and coraloids are worth mentioning as well as non calcareous forms e.g.Leopard´s skin. Each representative formation has got its name corresponding with its characteristic pattern. Former site of hermits is marked by symbol of the death from the 19th century. The legend has it, that Zamolxis lived in this cave after the defeat of the Dacians by the Romans. Owing to the fact, that Polovragi cave is home to approximately 300 bats, it is closed to a public during hibernation period (December-March). Situated 300 meters north of the mouth of the Olteţ canyon. Accessible via blue triangle trail
Cheile Cernei			Calcareous pinnacles on a length of about 2 km. A cross carved into the cliffy wall called Piatra Crucii. Rock formation named Piatra Cernei with Sfinxul Cernei outcrop. Waterfall Moara Dracilor and side cascade named Cheişoara. A needle called Piatra Colţului resembling a tusk. In the southwestern corner, about 6 km north of Cerna village. Blue cross trail
Poiana Scărişoara			One out of eight designated campsites in the Buila – Vânturariţa. There is also a shelter with spring of water. In the southeastern sector, about 4 km north of Pietreni village. Red triangle trail or yellow dots from Bărbăteşti.
Schitul Pahomie			Founded in 1520, the monk's name of the voivod of Oltenia. The legend has it, that he and his companions among them Sava the Outlaw was the most prominent, found salvation here when getting away from Mihnea the Bad. Pahomie’s monastery represents a unique historical place in Romania as it played an extraordinary role in bringing together the Christian faith and the anti-communist armed resistance for almost a decade in the mountains of Oltenia. The exceptional prestige this place is known for among the people who live in the northern part of the Vâlcea County is due, however, to Iosafat – a monk who lived 45 years of solitary life at Pahomie until his tragic end in 1987. In the southeastern sector, about a dozen km NW of Cheia village. Red cross trail.
Radiţa-Mânzu		Nature Reserve	Also known as Bacea, its area is 10 ha and altitudinal gradient varies between 650-950m. It protects peculiar landforms made of conglomerate with rare species of flora. In the Olăneştilor massif, about a dozen km NW of Băile Olăneşti resort. Yellow stripes plus unmarked path.
Lacul Marginea			Sits at the edge of a spur trending south of the Ursu massif. Red triangles from Vaideeni or blue crosses from Tănăseşti.
Peştera Urşilor			The impressive portal is 35 m tall and 20 m wide and this cave is about 400 m long made of main gallery and other small ones. There were found fossils of the cave bear and human traces from the Neolitic period. Located about 50 m above the bottom of the Bistriţa Gorges in the SW part of the Buila – Vânturariţa. Blue triangles from Bistriţa plus an unmarked path (railing-assisted scramble).
Cheile Bistriţei			This wonderful canyon about 1,5 km long belongs in the narrowest ravines carved in limestone in Romania, - at its narrowest place only 4 meters wide. In the SW part of the Buila – Vânturariţa. Blue triangles from Bistriţa village.
Poiana Târnovu Mic			A convenient site to pitch a tent. In the SW part of the Târnovu massif. Blue stripes/dots from Ciunget.
Mânăstirea Alina-Maria			Sitting in the highest altitude (1700 m) of all sacred sites, consecrated in autumn 2014, 32 photovoltaic panels with a capacity of 8 kW. In the center (brand new mountain resort) of lateral ridge trending south of Ursu massif, about 2 km S of Vf.lui Roman. Red triangles from Vaideeni.
Pietrele Goale			Formed of conglomerate. In the center of the Narăţ massif, at the edge of Poiana Târsa. Red dots/blue crosses from Brezoi.
Cascada Moara Dracilor			About 5 meters tall cascade. In the Cerna ravine, about 6 km N of namesake village. Blue crosses from Cerna.
Peştera Arnăuţilor		Nature Reserve	150 m wide with huge entrance (24/15 m, free access), easily seen from the bottom of the valley. In the northermost tip of the Buila-Vânturariţa, at the right slope of the Olăneşti Gorge. Yellow stripes/tringles from Băile Olăneşti resort.
Cheile Mânzului			Also known as Cheile Olăneşti, Cheile Folea, Valea Rea, Cheile Râului Sec it boasts spectacular limestone formations with vertical walls, cascade and caves on a length of almost 2 km. In the northermost tip of the Buila-Vânturariţa. Yellow stripes/tringles from Băile Olăneşti resort.
Poiana lui Pavel			Superb vantage point, which affords fine views of the Cozia massif with clusters of primeval beech forests (2017 extension of transnational World Natural Heritage). In the center of the Narăţ massif. Red dots from the Olt defile.
Mănăstirea Polovragi			A convent for nuns founded in 1505. The temple is built in the byzantine style and its mural paintings were executed by renowned masters of the Brancoveanu school from Horezu. In the SW part, in the mouth of the Oltet canyon, about 1 km N of namesake village.
Muntele Basarab			Formed of limestone and conglomerate dotted with gneiss and sandstone, abrupt hillsides towering above the Olt defile (Turnu reservoir). In the E part (Olaneştilor massif).
Padurea Polovragi		Nature Reserve	Protects mighty chestnut trees on an area of 10 ha. In the SW part in the mouth of the Olteţ canyon. Red dots from Polovragi village.
Cheile Lotrişor			Captivating ravine carved in gneiss and conglomerate on a length of about 5 km. In the E part, separating the Narăţ and the Olaneştilor massifs. Red dots from the Olt defile.
Mănăstirea Bistriţa			Dates back to 1490 and the present church is neo-gothic with generous dimensions similar to the cathedral including a big tower. In the SW tip of the Buila – Vânturariţa massif. Blue triangles from namesake village.

Old version
Being one of the most extensive and diverse mountain ranges in Slovakia, the Velká Fatra belong in the Northwestern Carpathians. On the west, the Velká Fatra rises from the basin of Turiec river, while in the south it faces the Kremnica hills and Starohorské (Old mountain) hills (SE). The eastern limit form the range of the Low Tatras, while the Choč hills make for transition behind the summits of Čebrať - Kečka - Šíp, being part of the Velká Fatra. Váh river divides these mountains from the opposite Little Fatra in the north. NB: Since 1978 the limits of the Velká Fatra changed dramatically - divide among neighbouring mountain ranges usually follows the line separating limestones from volcanic rocks. The southern boundary was transfered from Harmanec valley towards S face of Kotolnica massif making entire Harmanes karst part of the Velká Fatra. On the eastern side the summits of Zvolen group were affiliated, but the most remarkable change happened in the northern border - nowadays including former western segment of the Choč hills.

Velká Fatra is relatively compact 40x20 km massif with Y shaped principal ridge. Its distinctive main crest splits into two branches in Ploská summit, separated by 25 km long Lubochnianska valley.

Ridge/Name	Prominent summits	Length (km)	Orientation	Remarks
Main/Holná Fatra	Krížna (1574) - Ostredok (1595 - the highpoint) - Ploská (1532)	10	S-N	the highest segment with mountain glades
Eastern/Liptovsky	Čierny Kameň (1479) - Rakytov (1567) - Skalná Alpa (1463) - Malá Smrekovica (1485) - Šiprúň (1461)	15	SW-NE	middle (higher than the western ridge), patches of woodland alternating with grassy summits
Western/Turčiansky	Borišov (1510) - Kľak (1394)	15	S-N	lower than the eastern ridge, completelly wooded

Veľká Fatra is divided into seven areas:

Subgroup	Photo	Location/Massifs/Karst	Relief	Geology
Holná (Bald) Fatra		S segmentMalá Krížna, Krížna, Frčkov, Ostredok, Chyžky, Ploská, Rakytov, Smrekovica	Smoothly shaped, rounded and vast ridges with gentle slopes, avalanche prone troughs and nival depressions. Remarkable fragments of original levelled surface (e,g,Kráľova studna). Deforested between 15.-17.century, more than 2000 ha of alpine meadows, glades and pastures	The rocks of Krížna nappe and less resistant rocks - marls, marl-limestones, conglomerates and slates
Bralná (Cliffy) Fatra		W partTlstá, Ostrá, Chládkové úplazy, Drieňok, Smrekov, Králova skalaBlatnicky, Harmanecky	Ragged relief with complicated structure due to erosion activity. Cliffy walls (e.g.Čierny kameň), rocky hillsides (e.g.Ostrá), craggy tiers (e.g.Tlstá), towers (e.g.Králova skala), cracks, windows and gates (e.g.Čertova brána), canyons and ravines (e.g.Gader and Blatnica valleys), caves (more than 50 - e.g.Harmanecka being the only one accessible to a public), overhanging cavities and abysses, galleries and ledges.	Massive complexes and huge blocks of hard (resistant) rocks in the Choč nappe - limestones and dolomites
Šípska Fatra		N sectorZadný Šíp, Šíp, Kečky, Radičiná, Čebrať, SidorovoKraľoviansky	Dominant massif with bizzare cliffs, nicknamed as the guard of Orava and Liptov regions. Váh river divides it into two parts - the northern dominated by three peaked Šíp summit and the southern with Kopa summit.	Classic example of Choč nappe structure, limestones in the lower and dolomites in the upper parts.
Zvolen		E partMotyčská hoľa, Zvolen, Malý Zvolen, Končitá	Rounded summit with gentle slopes, superb vantage point.	Limestones
Lysec		NW segmentMalý Lysec, Lysec, Jarabina, Kľak, MaguraBeliansky, Sklabinsky	Developed bald relief in the upper parts.	Krížna nappe constitutes its prevalent part
Šiprúň		NE partČervený grúň, Magurka, Maďarovo, Šiprúň, Pulčíkovo	Namesake twin-peaked summit, wooded top parts.	Limestones and dolomites
Revúcke podolie		E sectionRevúcky	The line of deep faults, one of the most important sinter sedimentation in Slovakia, 3 km long range of travertine heaps (e.g.Jazierske travertines) and terrace tiers, cliffy formations with overhangs (e.g.Sokol).	Limestones and dolomites

The geodiversity of the Velká Fatra is very interesting. The crystalline core made of granites and slates in the center of the Velká Fatra protrudes to the surface in the northern part (e.g.Smrekovica). The structure of sedimentary rocks encompassing the core is rather complicated made of limestones and dolomites. In addition to prevailing calcareous rocks, marls. alums, conglomerates and sandstones do occur in particul series.

Velká fatra is typical example of the nappe structure consisting of basic tectonic units such as Krížna and Choč nappe being put on each other. Disintegration and erosion of the rocks of Choč nappe resulted in creation of the most spectacular karst formations in vast country named Cliffy Fatra with more than 200 caves (e.g.Harmanec cave) and chasms (the karsts of Gader, Blatnica, Necpaly or Harmanec valleys, the massifs of Kopa. Šíp or Čebrať). The rocks of Krížna nappe constitute mainly the highest segment named Bald Fatra and the prevalent section of Lysec. The adjacent Turiec basin and SW sector of the Velká Fatra bordering with Kremnica hills lie on volcanic rocks.

Video by LukZem

The table below lists the highest as well as some other conspicuous summits.

Summit	Elevation in meters	Photo	A few words about
Ostredok	1596		"Ostredok" is a complete misnomer since "ostry" translates as "sharp". Ostredok is composed of marls, therefore it is smoothly shaped and has avalanche prone slopes. It sits in the central part of the Hôľna Fatra and can be reached via trails marked with red or green stripes. The height of the mountain has recently been corrected.
Frčkov	1586		The second highest peak about one kilometer south of Ostredok. Red stripes.
Krížna	1574		At the south end of the main ridge, at its intersection with a massive ridge trending west to east. Alpine meadows with patches of dwarf pine on the NE side; nicknamed the "mother of avalanches" with huge nival niches. A radio mast, military objects and a memorial of a plane crash from 1961 on its top. The trails that run north (towards Ostredok), west (towards Kráľova skala and Drieňok) and east (towards the sedlo of Veľký Šturec and the massif of Zvolen beyond it) from Krížna are all waymarked with red stripes. A blue-striped trail approaches the summit from the south.
Rakytov	1567		The highest peak of the Liptov ridge, in its central part, shaped like a pyramid. A superb vantage point with a wooden cross on its top. It can be climbed via a green trail. There is an interesting formation named "Skalná brána" (Rocky gate) at its south base. The summit is bypassed by a yellow trail that contours its west side.
Suchý vrch	1550		A patch of limestone designed a nature reserve between Ostredok and Ploská, strongly contrasting with the smoothly shaped relief of its surroundings. In the central part of the main ridge, about 1 km NE of Ostredok. Red stripes.
Ploská	1532		This aptly named summit ("ploská" literally means "flat"), at which the main ridge splits into two, stands over 4 km northeast of Ostredok. Its west side is prone to avalanches. On the top is the grave of Ondrej Kisso which dates back to the times of the Slovak national uprising. Red/yellow stripes to the summit; a green striped traverse of its north side and a blue striped traverse of its west side.
Smrekovica	1530		An extensively wooded massif, formed of crystalline schists, halfway down the Liptov Ridge. The massif has been designated a nature reserve. The main summit, only accessible by unmarked paths, stands on a lateral ridge over 2 km east of the main ridge, where sits a namesake mountain resort.
Borišov	1509		A conical peak around 2 km west of Ploská, a nature reserve. The north side of the mountain is covered by spruce woodland, the south side is notorious for avalanches, just east of the peak sits a mountain hut known as Chata pod Borišovom, from where you can get to the summit via a yellow trail.
Čierny kameň	1479		One of the landmarks of the Veľká Fatra - an isolated, distinctive piece of the Choč nappe at the south end of the Liptov Ridge, formed of resistant limestone and dolomite. It is a spectacular formation with almost vertical walls trending southeast and a continuous dwarf pine cover. Its gentler, western side is protected as a nature reserve, across which runs a green trail, which keeps a few hundred meters away from the summit.
Skalná Alpa	1463		A sharp ridge with steep west and east sides, between Rakytov and Smrekovica, named by Austrian cartographers in the 19th century. Alternating layers of limestone and dolomite on a granite bedrock, a nature reserve. The east side of the peak is traversed by a green stripe trail.
Šiprúň	1461		A twin-peaked wooded summit formed of limestone and dolomite. At the north end of the Liptov Ridge. Red stripes.
Zvolen	1403		A rounded mountain with gentle slopes which makes for a superb vantage point. In the east part of the namesake ridge, 2 km north of the winter resort of Donovaly, very popular with skiers and tourists. Red/yellow stripes.
Kľak	1394		The highpoint of the Turiec Ridge, located in its central part, formed of limestone. A great vantage point and a significant junction of red/yellow/blue/green trails.
Lysec	1381		Situated between the Belianska and Hornojasenska valleys, about 3 km west of the Turiec Ridge, with a cliffy northeast face. Lysec is mostly formed of limestones of the Krížna nappe. It is a nature reserve accessible by blue and yellow stripes.
Kráľova skala	1377		A distinctive cliff over 2 km west of Krížna, formed of limestones and dolomites with calciphilous vegetation, towering a stone's throw from an important trail junction at a spring called Kráľova studňa, about 1 km north of the namesake mountain hut and 1 km east of an old-fashioned chalet used as a shelter. Yellow stripes.
Tlstá	1373		A huge limestone and dolomite massif in the heart of the Bralná Fatra, resembling a table mountain with a vast summit plateau and steep sides made up of vertical cliff bands and ledges that separate them, endowed with multiple caves. A nature reserve. Blue/green stripes.
Majerova skala	1283		This impressive limestone crag on the southern outskirts of the Hôľna Fatra, 2 km southeast of Krížna, gives a fine view of the Starohorské hills. The hill is a monument of nature, its cavities and hollows being favourable winter dens of the brown bear. Blue stripes.
Drieňok	1268		A wooded cone in the Bralná Fatra, rising above the Blatnica valley. Blue stripes.
Ostrá	1247		One of the most spectacular massifs in the Bralná Fatra, between the valleys of Blatnica and Konský dol: a twin-peaked summit, limestone towers, narrow rocky window, nature reserve. Yellow stripes.

The table below lists the most attractive natural and cultural sites of the Velká Fatra that sit away from its summits:

Name	Photo	Status	Short description
Vlkolínec		UNESCO World Cultural Heritage	The best preserved settlement with traditional log buildings in the Carpathian region, inscribed on the World Heritage List in 1993. The existence of the village was first recorded in 1376. Today it features 73 objects of folk architecture, including a bellfry dating back to 1770 and a wooden well from 1860. The village sits on the outskirts of the town of Ružomberok and is accessible via an interpretive trail.
Jánošíkova kolkáreň		National Nature Reserve	This reserve, established in 1964 and covering 243 ha, protects a swath of pristine spruce woodland with some 400 year old specimens. It is located under the summit of Malá Smrekovica, within the crystalline part of the Velká Fatra. A green stripe trail winds through the core zone of the reserve.
Krkavá skala		Monument of Nature	This legendary, 15 meter tall, dolomite crag belongs in the highest karst towers in Slovakia. It rises by a route named the Royal Road, about 2 km south of Ružomberok. Green stripes.
Harmanecká jaskyňa		National Monument of Nature	The most spectacular cave in the Velká Fatra, in the southern tip of the range which used to be regarded as part of the Kremnické vrchy, south of the Harmanecká Valley. The cave is nicknamed the White Cave owing to its ceiling formed of pure limestone, with plenty of moonmilk. It houses the Great Dome with two pagodas (12 m tall, 3 m in diameter). A huge number of bats winter there. Of the total length of more than 3 km, over 1 km is accessible to the public (guided tours only). To the entrance leads a zig zag interpretive trail (260 m net elevation gain).
Vodopád v Došnej			A 6 m tall waterfall with three tiers, on a tributary of Beliansky creek. Accessible via yellow strips from Havranovo guesthouse.
Čertova brána			A narrow passage between massive limestone blocks approaching each other at a distance of three meters. In the middle of the Gader valley, about half a kilometer from the intersection with Dedošová and Selenec ravines. Yellow stripes.
Vodný žľab Rakytovo		National Cultural Monument, Special Forestry Site	The last fully operational wooden water flume in Europe, built in C19, reconstructed in 2006, length 2450 m, altitudinal range 700-532 m, made of coniferous wood. The flume was originally used to transport wood - trunks and branches were chopped into one meter long logs that floated 2,450 m downstream. Accessible via an interpretive trail from Dolný/Horný Harmanec winding through the Harmanec karst area near two old railway tunnels.
Blatnický hrad		Historical Monument	The castle was built in mid-C13 to protect the trading route Magna Via to Nitra town. Deserted since 1790, these days volunteers help to conserve the ruins. On Plesovica hill above the Gader valley, about 2 km northeast of Blatnica village. An interpretive trail marked with yellow stripes.
Jazierské travertiny		Monument of Nature	Established in 1952, preserves a chain of travertine terraces, 250 m long, created by a karst spring. The process is still underway. Interesting circular depressions ("jazierce") and the curious-looking Jazierska cascade, rare species of orchids. In the Revúca valley, about 4 km south of Ružomberok, an unmarked path.
Harmanecká tísina		National Nature Reserve	Designated in 1949, 20 ha, protects a very special site boasting the highest density of natural yew tree (relic from the Tertiary Period) stands in Europe. The oldest specimens reach the age of 600 years. About 1 km northwest of Horný Harmanec, near the Čremošniansky tunnel, which was the longest in Czechoslovakia (4.7 km). A green striped trail crosses the reserve.
Ľubochnianska dolina (The valley of the Ľubochnianka)			The longest mountain valley in Slovakia, extending almost straight north for around 25 km. It divides the higher branch of the main ridge, still bearing the name of Holná Fatra which is also referred to as the Liptov Ridge from the lower, western branch of the main ridge, called the Turiec Ridge. Between 1904-1966 there used to be the first electrified narrow-gauge railroad in the central Europe. It is located on the northern flank of the Velká Fatra. Accessible via an asphalted road.

Rock climbing

As the Ceahlău Massif is formed mostly of conglomerates, it offers few rock climbing routes, most of which are to be found on more solid limestone. Some of those routes, for example on Panaghia, have pitons which were placed there several decades ago and are far from reliable. The most suitable for rock climbing are the cliffs of Ocolaşul Mic and Ocolaşul Mare, and also the following rocks/areas: Piatra Miresei (near the Dochia hut), Fundul Ghedeonului, Piatra Sură, Detunate, Piatra Ciobanului, Turnul lui Budu, Panaghia, Claia lui Miron and Turnul Sihastrului.   Due to its towering walls and needles, the Hăşmaş Mountains are perfect "climbers' paradise", offering the highest number of the most difficult rock-climbing routes in Romania. Below is the list of the most attractive ones:

• Bicaz gorges
• Solitary rock

With high sandstone and limestone cliffs providing hours of vertical entertainment, including multi pitch challenges, there is plenty to whet the appetite of any adventurer.

Maps & Books

Online map

• Hiking SK
• Freemap SK
• Mapy CZ
• Treking CZ

Paper map

• 1 : 40 000 by SHOCART
• 1 : 50 000 by TATRAPLAN
• 1 : 50 000 by VKU HARMANEC
• 1 : 50 000 by SHOCART

Books

• Guidebook by Otakar Brandos
• S batohem po Slovensku by Peter Podolák
• Skryté krásy by Jana Stehlíková a kol.

Uholsko-Širokolužanský prales (Ukrajinské Karpaty)

Nedozírné moře bučin, táhnoucí se tucet kilometrů, extrémně komplikovaný terén, jako někde na konci světa a ne uprostřed Evropy. Božský občerstvující vliv, znovuzrozenost a dokonalá očista po 12 dnech bez jakéhokoliv kontaktu s lidskými vlivy. Jen divocí tvorové – modranka karpatská, mloci, srny a laně, liška, kuna. Excelentní záběry lovícího puštíka uralského – vzácné to pralesní sovy. Párek bělohřbetých strakapoudů, jež jsou vázáni výlučně na pralesní prostředí. Žluna s typickým halekavým hlasem. Černý čáp na břehu Lužanky – jedné z nejdivočejších karpatských řek. Blyštivý třpyt blankytně modrého ledňáčka. Stopy kočkovité šelmy v hlubokém sněhu. Ani ve slovutném indickém Sunderbanu – největším mangrovovém pralese na světě, není tolik druhů savců, co se skrývají jako přízraky v bukových pralesích.

Karpatská liška

Puštík bělavý

Modranka karpatská

Ledové krápníky zkrášlující krasový most. Duchovní fotografie podobná kulovému blesku. Nejvyšší buky na celém světě přesahující padesátimetrovou výšku jsou hlavním magnetem přitahujícím milovníky divočiny do tohoto největšího bukového pralesa Evropy. Podzimní nádhera přírodního chrámu, teplé listopadové sluníčko, zvědavá veverka, uležená hřejivá vrstva čerstvě spadeného bukového listí. Zapadajícím sluncem nasvícený krasový most – unikátní dílo přírody, které obdivovali už i poslové Ivana Hrozného. Výhled z podivné skály zvané Čur. Sedmdesátimetrová velkolepá skalní stěna Velké Kopice (literálně stohu), ční vysoko nad pralesním baldachýnem. Na jejím vrcholku vzácná květena, ale přístup k ní je komplikovaný.

Krasový most

Aplikace fraktálních rovnic na listu kapradiny

Pralesní jeskyně Mléčný kámen

Letní bujnost všech porostů – středoevropská džungle. Hluboké rozjímání v pralesní jeskyni zvané Mléčný kámen. Silný vliv na duši i tělo, po němž i zuby přestaly bolet. Bivak mezi vyvrácenými mohykány narušený hromy a blesky. Jen málokdy člověk pociťuje tak obrovský respekt k síle přírodních fenoménů. Stačí být v nesprávném místě v nesprávný čas a je po všem. Ale v takových momentech člověk spíše o to víc myslí na ty druhé. Vždyť strom má mnohem těžší pozici a citliví pralesní tvorové musí vše vnímat daleko intenzivněji. Hlavou proběhnou vzpomínky na zprávu o nebohých Afričanech, jímž blesk uhodil přímo do stanu a ve vteřině je zprovodil z tohoto světa. Když se po takovém bouřlivém rámusu ozve holoubek doupňáček, člověk cítí obrovskou úlevu, očistu a radost z toho, že mu ještě bylo dopřáno pokračovat ve službě druhým. Jarní svěžest dekorovaná všemi barvami hrajícími koberci šafránů, bledulí, ladoněk, sasanek a žláznatých kyčelnic. Trsy devětsilů, blatouchů, dymnivek a jedovatých pablenů.

šafrán heuffelův

bledule jarní

pablen kranský

Zaplněná ramena rozvodněné Lužanky. Ztížený postup podél břehu. Naslouchání duchu pralesa – vždyť je jako my – dýchá, šumí, sténá. Občas jakoby člověk zaslechne tisíce různých hlasů. Jaká to urozená společnost miliónů živých bytostí. Spojit se s nimi, procítit je – toť největší úkol. Pohádkové pralesní pěšinky vystlané bukovým listím jako stvořené akorát pro jeden pár bot. Odpočinek v dřevěném altánku. Třísetleté buky jako sloupy gotických katedrál rostoucí v nejoptimálnějších ekologických podmínkách. Otvor do jeskyně Družba, která je nejdelší v Ukrajinských Karpatech. Vciťování se do lesního hlodavce – norníka rudého – který pak za odměnu v noci vyhlodal dirky do vnitřní vrstvy stanu. Vůbec jsem se na něj nezlobil, vždyť on je ke hlodání čehokoliv stvořen, zatímco já jsem jen host. Myšmi prohlodaná díra v batohu – tabulka bílé čokolády jim přišla vhod. Strmý hřebínek Uholské Pleše s karpatskými zvonky. Pralesní chýše se dvěma dřevěnými palandami a kamny přišla vhod. Cenný záběr vzácné zlatohlavé lilie zapsané v Červené knize. Úmorné plahočení jedním z nejdivočejších úseků, kdy se věci musely poponášet z jednoho povaleného kmene na druhý. Zoufalé hledání vody ve vyschlém korytu. I toť jasný doklad rychlosti klimatických změn – vždyť prales dokáže nejlépe hospodařit s vodou a ještě nikdy se nestalo, aby žíznivý poutník musel sestoupat tak hluboko kvůli životadárné tekutině. Do srdce vtisknutý obraz Uholského pralesa s pozadím Marmarošských hor a rumunské Rodny. Mlsání divoce rostoucích jahod.

lilie zlatohlávek

srna v pralese

nedozírné moře bučin

Sestup Širokolužanským masívem. Inspirující scenerie s polomy a vývraty obklopujícími pralesní bystřinu. Už jen rys chyběl ke kompletnosti této prvotřídní divočiny. Hrůzostrašné kotle plné popadaných stromů, obklopené třicetistupňovými svahy, lezitelnými pouze po čtyřech. Jakpak si s nimi dokáže poradit medvěd? Zoufalé pátrání po vzácném modro-černém alpském tesaříkovi vázeném na tlející kmeny buků. Nejsložitější postup v životě. Nejdříve slézání strmého svahu, sevřeného dvěma kotly. Průchod potokem zataraseným vývraty. Vynucený výstup spojený s traverzem sotva lezitelného terénu. Stačilo podklouznout či podvrtnout si kotník a bylo by… Opětný sestup a přebrodění říčky. Krátké vydechnutí při pokračování po druhém břehu. Nutnost zase přejít vlevo po mokrých valounech. Břehy obrostlé bujnými lopuchy. Další z nesčetných nabrání do bot. A pak už nepopsatelná radost z dopachtění se ke známému soutoku. Ještěže jakási intuitivní orientace ještě funguje, jinak by se v těchto končinách člověk mohl motat týdny a ne to zvládnout za dva dny. Spontánní rozhodnutí zabivakovat mezi dvěma řekami. Nečekaný příval zvedl hladiny natolik, že člověk na vlastní kůži pocítil, jaké to je mít obavy z každé další dešťové kapky. Spoléhání na schopnost pralesa zmírnit tuto událost. Hlubší pochopení toho, jak nesmírným prospěchem je v takových chvílích vertikální struktura pralesa, kde je využit každý čtvereční centimetr. Lidé dole by měli děkovat a konečně jednou pochopit genialitu tohoto nejsložitějšího pozemského ekosystému. Zaplať Bůh, že něco takového na po tisíciletí osídlovaném starém kontinentu ještě vůbec existuje.

Weather & Rescue Service

Mountain rescue service

Name of MRS	Address	Telefon/e-mail	Mobile phone
Transcarpathian	Uzhorod, Vereshcahina 18, 88006	+38 0312 671 413 zak.resque@tn.uz.ua	+38 097 585 6685
Lviv	Zaliznichna 16, 79905	+38 0342 222 165 resque_tur@ukr.net	+38 0322 395 070
Vyshka	Krasiya summit, 89023	+38 0312 671 413	+38 050 527 1705
Volovets	Karpatska 100, 89100	+38 0313 622 290	+38 068 502 8551
GROUP Bieszczady - Sanok	Mickiewicza 49, 38-500	+48 134 632 204 bieszczadzka@gopr.pl	+48 601 100 300
Ustrzyki Górne	GOPR	+48 134 610 606	+48 601 100 300
Pod Małą Rawką	GOPR	+48 504 170 127	+48 601 100 300

Duty officer of Ministry of Emergency - (+38 0321) 660 701, 660 114 or (+38 0442) 473 103 Emergency numbers of rescue services - 101 (only from UA operators)

Accommodation

Recommended accommodation	Address	e-mail	Phone
Stavnoe pension	Stavne 158	158@stavnoe.com	+38 0997 340 177
Club Slidopyt	Rusky Mochar	admin@slidopyt.com	+38 0992 010 415
Club "Visson"	Kostryna 1	info@clubvisson.com	+38 0312 444 107
Sherbin pension	Sherbin(150m from railroad station)	salamanderalex@yahoo.com	+38 0965 205 266
Hotel Uzhok	Volosyanka 440a	-	+38 0963 301 606
Verkhovynsky Dvor	Kostryna 187	-	+38 0313 537 225

External links

Romania-natura TR Refreshing of marked routes Spirit of the Carpathians - Photo TR (Godeanu)

The eastern part of the main ridge

Animated Snapshots

The best shots of LukZem

Piatra Craiului (Královský kámen - Rumunské Karpaty)

Karpatské dolomity. Zřejmě nejkrásněji zvýrazněný hřeben nejrozlehlejšího pohoří Evropy. Ne nadarmo nese hrdě jméno Královský kámen.

VIDEO

Bělostné vertikálně zahnuté vápencové vrstvy zdálky připomínají vznešenost mohutné ozubené vlny táhnoucí se dva tucty kilometrů, vyzvednuté nad okolní krajinu do výšky přes dva kilometry - to vše dekorované celodenním slunečním svitem. Jaká to pastva pro oči všech, kteří sem zavítají. Příjemné procvičení mluvené angličtiny při probírání nejrůznějších témat počínaje horami, přes historicko-politickou situaci či klimatické změny a konče filosofickou rozpravou o času, který je pouze funkcí bytostné mysli. Škoda, že jsem s sebou neměl anglickou verzi knihy BYTÍ.

hvozdík kalizon

hvězdnice alpínská

zvonek karpatský

Purpurově zbarvené kvítky hvozdíku kalizonu, který neroste nikde jinde na světě, jsou nejcennějším skvostem této "botanické zahrady", kde nalezla útočiště třetina všech rostlin, které se vyskytují v Rumunsku. Suchý hřbet a dokonce i strmá bezvodná údolí. Nebýt slovenských kolegů, marné by bylo pátrání po životadárné tekutině. Pohádkové přivítání kamzíkem a svištěm po exponovaném výstupu jištěném ocelovými lany, vyplašení klid milující tetřevi, mihnoucí se sokol, vyhřívající se zmije, vzácný obyvatel smrčin - datlík tříprstý - to je jen nepatrná výpověď o celkové divokosti a nenarušenosti Královského kamene. Ale kamzíci jednoznačně vévodí, ať už byli pozorováni ve stádu, při pastvě či odpočinku ve stinných srázech.

La Zaplaz

La Cerdacul Stanciului

skalní okna

Pozoruhodná skalní okna řazená vertikálně a prostorově pod nimiž se srdce žíznivého zpoceného poutníka zachvělo a v očích se objevily slzy radosti při vzpomínce na polského kolegu, který tuto oblast prozkoumával již koncem sedmdesátých let. Pamětní kříž věnovaný naší Evě Drongové, kterou si tyto hory "vzaly" těsně před pádem komunismu. Škoda, že nestihla tehdy dojít k jednomu ze dvou "refugií" - útulen ve tvaru polovičního fotbalového míče - které se v dnešních dobách na tomto ostrém hřebeni nacházejí. Velkolepé výhledy na okolní dvouapůltisícová pohoří Bucegi a Fagaraš. Nezapomenutelné loučení s tímto rozeklaným vápencovým hřbetem, který zapadající slunce nasvicovalo do oranžova.

Animované snímky

Călimani

VIDEO by LukZem

Gigantický kráter ve tvaru koňského kopyta o průměru tuctu kilometrů je svého druhu největším neaktivním vulkánem Evropy. V jeho srdci se ještě ukrývá nemalé množství žlutého prvku (síry), který neuvážliví lidé svými necitlivými zásahy za komunistické éry nestačili vytěžit. Naštěstí dnes je celá oblast opuštěná a čeká na své zrestaurování. Ty tam jsou obavy z agresivních pasteveckých psů, před nimiž jsem byl varován polským kolegou, který zde před více než třiceti lety zažil krušné chvíle. od té doby se ale časy dramaticky změnily, salaše chátrají, lidé a spolu s nimi jejich stáda z hor mizí a celá oblast se postupně zarůstá vegetací a stává se divočejší. Zmije demonstrující sílu svého stisku na holi pastevce, vyplašený srnec, ořešníci na špičkách smrků, všudypřítomní krkavci s vytříbeným smyslem pro humor. Jsou to prý jedni z nejinteligentnějších ptáků a jejich vzdušná akrobatická cvičení jsou toho názorným dokladem. Karpatský modrý slimák na ranní stezce připomněl slova pana Nevrlého.

Symbolické

Pomalé

Idylické

Termální inverze jsou pro toto nejvyšší vulkanické pohoří Karpat typickým fenoménem. Někdy trvají i celých 24 hodin a být zpocený už hodinu po východu slunce ve výšce 2 km to není zase až tak úplně běžné. Jaký to kontrast s drkotajícím se Romem na koňském povozu v hlubokém a zrána studeném údolí. Stabilní bezvětrné pozdně letní slunečné počasí s pouhými čtyřmi bouřemi. Obavy ze zásahu bleskem vyprchaly, nicméně vzpomínka na loňské vyprávění rumunského kolegu, který v Kalimanských horách ztratil přítele, zůstala. Dokonce i duha se vyjevila po jedné z bouří. A pak že jsou jen tři základní barvy - asi ti naši učitelé nikdy bedlivě nepozorovali lom světla.

Čtyři barvy

Pleso Iezer

Meteo stanice

Jediné jezero se ukrývá uprostřed těchto hor kousek od Transkalimanské starobylé prašné cesty, která se vlní jako had až k Meteorologické stanici do výšky 2 km. Velká polana asijské rozlohy tvořící náhorní plošinu. Nezapomenutelný bivak přímo pod mohutným masívem s nejvyšším vrcholem zvaným Pietrosul (2103m). Borůvkové snídaně a večeře. Osmihodinový vyčerpávající pochod sycený vidinou jednoho z nejpozoruhodnějších divů Rumunských Karpat - unikátních vyvřelých 12 Apoštolů. Těžko představitelné jak pradávnou vulkanickou činností vznikly tyto bizarní sochy, které v součinnosti s několikatisíciletým modelováním přírodními živly a procesy dávají poutníku okázale najevo, že to pravé sochařské umění se nedá ničím zaplatit. Neboť trpělivost, kterou Matka příroda s tímto velkolepým dílem má přesahuje veškeré myslitelné hranice. Nejmystičtěji tyto skalní formace působí při západu a východu slunce, jehož paprsky zvýrazňují kontury útvarů do oranžova. Nebylo lepšího prostředí v Kalimanských horách pro rozjímání v předvečer druhého nejduchovnějšího dne v roce...

Maršál

Mystický západ slunce

Průhled k Pietrosulu

Labutí den zpestřený jídlem a vodou od sběračů brusinek. Loučení v poslední prázdninový den s geologicky nejmladším masívem Rumunska, tvořícím přirozenou bariéru mezi třemi starodávnými říšemi - Moldávií, Transylvánií a Bukovinou.

Nera virgin forest & gorges

Both the Izvoarele Nerei Nera virgin forest Scientific Reserve and Cheile Nerei Nera gorges are located in the Southwestern Carpathians - the western part of Romania, called Banat region. Situated in the Semenic Mountains, the Springs of Nera covering approximately 5 000 ha is one of the largest virgin forests in Europe. Being part of the Semenic – Cheile Carasului National Park, this primeval beech forest has a highly diversified structure along a 700 m altitudinal gradient. The largest trees reach diameters over 1 m and heights of about 50 meters. Impressive tree dimensions result in a standing volume of over 1200 cubic meters per hectare.

Colourful canopy

Poiana Mare

Crowns of beech trees

Nera virgin forest was established in 1975 by the management plans, first as a „forest reserve“, and in 2000 came to the current status as a „scientific reserve“. All the site conditions are very favourable for the beech species, especially the climate, which can be considered as a „climatic climax“ situation for this species. This is the most plausible explanation for the monospecific composition of this almost pure beech forest.

VIDEO by LukZem

At the point where Nera river enters Anina Mountains, the water flow has carved out a breathtaking landscape, whose most attractive part is the Canyon of the Nera river. The Nera gorges can be crossed along the red striped hiking trail, which is about 25 km long or for those who are fond of water by rafts. Located off the main hiking trail, the Devil´s lake is a unique karst phenomenon. The geological substratum consists of karst phenomena, giving this region a very picturesque look.

Entrance

Devil's lake

Beauty

The path in some parts is cut into the rock passing through terraces and two tunnels dug by man, entering a wide riverside coppice, following a large fairy meanders of the Nera river. The vertical walls falling down to the river of this very wild rocky canyon are sporadically 400 meters high.

Terrace at the hooks

Tunnels

Vertical walls

For their beauty of limestone cliffs, high scientific value, unique karst formations, colourful forests and many species of great importance, Nera gorges can be considered as an intact corner of a virgin nature and a superb destination for adventurers, because of its isolated, authentic and dramatic wild landscapes.

Ciucaş Mountains Overview

East from the Bucegi Mountains, in the Carpathian Bend, part of the Eastern Carpathians, extends a series of lower mountain ranges, none of which rises over 2,000m. Their ridgelines are rather monotonous, wavy or undulating, covered with either woods or pastures. The borders between particular ranges, some of which are known under more than one name, are far from obvious. The Ciucas Mountains stand out from their surroundings in that they are a few hundred metres higher and boast spectacular, peculiar rock formations thus resembling a medieval fortress. These mountains sit between the Grohotiş Mountains in the southwest and the Siriu Mountains in the east. From the north they are bounded by Întorsurii Mountains. The Ciucaş Mountains embrace the Tesla and Dungu massifs, situated northwest of Ciucaş Peak. The highpoint of the Ciucas Mountains has the same name as the mountain range. At 1954m, it stands near the north end of the Bratocea Ridge, which runs from the southwest, from the pass named Bratocea (the national road Brasov-Cheia). The Bratocea Ridge forms the western part of the main ridge of the Ciucaş Mountains. At Ciucaş Peak what is thought to be the main ridge takes a sharp turn right, drops a couple of hundred metres and runs ESE to connect to the other, eastern part of the main ridge, which is called Zăganu. The Zăganu Ridge, whose highest summit is Gropsoare at 1833m, runs from NNW to SSE. From its north stretch it sends a remarkable lateral ridge to the southwest, known as Muntele Roşu (1843m), whose extension reaches the resort of Cheia. The bizarre, unique shapes of the groups of rock formations are the token of the Ciucas Mountains. The association of towers, needles, sugar loaves, mushrooms, anthropomorphic and zoomorphic rocks, etc. is a result of differential weathering of the rock material they are formed of, namely Zaganu-Ceahlau conglomerate, which is a type of sedimentary rock that consists of plethora of boulders and pebbles embedded in sandstone or calcareous matrix. The rock formations carved in the conglomerate tend to have characteristic, rounded tops, whereas the sharper spires and cliff edges can indicate limestone rather than conglomerate. All landforms are undergoing a relatively rapid evolution due to the harsh mountain climate.


The table below lists the highest as well as some other conspicuous summits.

Summit	Elevation in Metersa.s.l.	Photo	A few words about
Vf.Ciucaş	1954		The highest summit, in the central part, inside the main ridge oriented NW-SE. Red stripes trail.
Gropşoare	1883		The highest summit of Zăganu Ridge. Grassy summit in stark contrast with the rest of the area. Red cross trail.
Babele la Sfat	1877		Matchmakers - a fascinating sculpture, half a kilometre SE off Ciucas peak. Red stripes trail.
Ţigăile Mari	1844		Great pans, to Hungarian people also known as Sziklavár, in central part about 1 km SE off Ciucas peak. Exceptionally beautiful association of limestone/conglomerate landforms, red stripes/red cross traverse.
Ţigăile Mici	1827		To Hungarians also known as Királytető, in the central part, next to Pans' saddle. Red stripes traverse.
Zăganu	1817		In the southernmost part of the eastern ridge with spectacular Brazen tower. Red cross trail.
Turnul Goliath	1793		Anthropomorphic rock formation, in the central part, half a kilometre off Pans'saddle. Red cross traverse.
Bratocea	1722		In the southernmost part of the western ridge with dominant Sfinxul Bratocei, about 2 km off Bratocea saddle. Red stripes trail. Yellow triangle trail from Babarunca hut.

Karpatská květena

Getting There

Access routes	Trailhead at	Marks	Destinations
Topliţa - Grinţies - Durău (roads 15/155F)	Durău resort	red crossred stripe	Duruitoarea waterfallCuşma Dorobantului, Panaghia, Toaca
Gheorgheni - Lacu Roşu - Bicaz canyon - Bicazu Ardelean (road 12C)	BistraNeagra	blue stripeblue cross	Gardul Stănilelor,Piatra LăcrămatăTurnul lui Butu
Târgu Neamt - Petru Vodă - Poiana Largului - Durău (road 15B/155F)	Curmătura Lutul Roşu	blue stripe	Poliţa cu Crini, Detunatele
Piatra Neamt - Bicaz (road 15)	Cabana Izvorul Muntelui	red stripe	Clăile lui Miron, traverse of Ocolaşul Mic/Mare
Vatra Dornei - Bistriţa valley - Poiana Teiului (road 17B)	Cabana lui Falon	blue triangle	Dochia rock, Poarta Piatră

Accommodation

  The complete list of mountain huts, hostels, refuges, chalets and log cabins in the Velká Fatra. 

• Chata pod Borišovom
• Kráľova studňa
• Granit Smrekovica
• Havranovo

Camping & Red Tape

  The only designated campsite in the Ceahlău Massif is located at Piatra Lata din Ghedeon (1718m) about half a kilometre SE off Dochia hut.The Ceahlău