Artoirius - Aug 25, 2008 8:28 am Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2007
W-Ridge from Tiefmatten
Normally we had climbed the normal route from Rif. Aosta, but due to the warm summer conditions, this was too dangerous for loose rocks and bad snow conditions. This route is extremely beautiful but exposed at some points.
Corvus - Aug 21, 2008 1:40 pm Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2008
Normal route from Aosta ref.
We stopped to climb on the traverse for reaching the Tiefmatten ridge, 150 m below the summit. Unfortunely the day before there was a storm and the rocks were completely covered of fresh snow....too dangerous. Some climbers before us reached the summit and came back to the Aosta refuge at 10.30 pm after 18 hours! At the end the ours was a prudential decision.
bergauf - Mar 16, 2008 9:43 am Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2005
Jeroen Vels - Aug 31, 2007 8:10 am Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2007
Route climbed: NW Face from Schönbielhütte
Long route over different sorts of terrain. From the hut cross the glacier, go over Stokji, traverse another glacier, climb the icefall and the last glacier. From here it still is a 1000 meter climb. Average of 50 degrees, parts up to 70 degrees. Very nice and varied tour, but due to worsening conditions of the glaciers harder than stated in the guidebooks...
Partner: John Scoles
From Zermatt we (F and B.v.d.Doel and L.Boer NL) walked to the Schonbielhut. 5h.
1 h from the hut we made a bivac near a small glacierlake. Next day we went to the NW face (D) of the mountain. The route until the foot of the mountain is easy, but at some stages you have to make pace cause off dangerous seracs (N-face) (2.5h). The NWface itself was also pretty tricky. After 2.5 hours of dangerous climbing (40º with short steep passages 80º ) average and we reached the westridge which lead to the summitrocks. In good qualityrocks (III) its now .5 h to the summit. Perfect view all over the alps... Its not very difficult but be carefull and go fast at some stages. (total time appr.6-8h )
boriskrielen - Feb 5, 2018 5:33 am Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2012
W-ridge soloClimbed it solo by the Tiefmattenjoch and complete W-ridge.
Eelconl - Mar 21, 2013 8:11 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2012
Summer 2012From the italian side.
vincepeters - Jun 29, 2010 3:41 am Date Climbed: Jul 14, 2009
West ridgeClimbed the Westridge from the Rifuge d'Aosta since the Normal route over the glacier south from the West ridge is generally in poor condition.
sokolxxx - Sep 16, 2009 5:39 pm Date Climbed: Jul 25, 2005
W-Ridge from TiefmattenPerfect mountain
Artoirius - Aug 25, 2008 8:28 am Date Climbed: Aug 4, 2007
W-Ridge from TiefmattenNormally we had climbed the normal route from Rif. Aosta, but due to the warm summer conditions, this was too dangerous for loose rocks and bad snow conditions. This route is extremely beautiful but exposed at some points.
Corvus - Aug 21, 2008 1:40 pm Date Climbed: Aug 20, 2008
Normal route from Aosta ref.We stopped to climb on the traverse for reaching the Tiefmatten ridge, 150 m below the summit. Unfortunely the day before there was a storm and the rocks were completely covered of fresh snow....too dangerous. Some climbers before us reached the summit and came back to the Aosta refuge at 10.30 pm after 18 hours! At the end the ours was a prudential decision.
bergauf - Mar 16, 2008 9:43 am Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2005
Route Climbed: W-ridgeRoute: Rif. Prarayer (great food) - Rif. Aosta - Dent d'Hérens
A perfect day with new views to the Matterhorn.
More images from this ascent.
Jeroen Vels - Aug 31, 2007 8:10 am Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2007
Route climbed: NW Face from SchönbielhütteLong route over different sorts of terrain. From the hut cross the glacier, go over Stokji, traverse another glacier, climb the icefall and the last glacier. From here it still is a 1000 meter climb. Average of 50 degrees, parts up to 70 degrees. Very nice and varied tour, but due to worsening conditions of the glaciers harder than stated in the guidebooks...
Partner: John Scoles
landroval - Sep 23, 2005 4:36 pm
Route Climbed: normal route - west ridge Date Climbed: 17 july 2005So sad I couldn't climb to the summit. But the fault was my own... I'll soon be back to reach the top.
andrea.it - Aug 9, 2004 8:54 am
Route Climbed: normal route west ridge Date Climbed: 22 july 2004Solo climb.Reached the summit in 5,30 hours.But unfortunately the top was in the cloud.
Farmer - Jun 5, 2002 1:18 pm
Route Climbed: NW Face Date Climbed: aug 2001From Zermatt we (F and B.v.d.Doel and L.Boer NL) walked to the Schonbielhut. 5h.
1 h from the hut we made a bivac near a small glacierlake. Next day we went to the NW face (D) of the mountain. The route until the foot of the mountain is easy, but at some stages you have to make pace cause off dangerous seracs (N-face) (2.5h). The NWface itself was also pretty tricky. After 2.5 hours of dangerous climbing (40º with short steep passages 80º ) average and we reached the westridge which lead to the summitrocks. In good qualityrocks (III) its now .5 h to the summit. Perfect view all over the alps... Its not very difficult but be carefull and go fast at some stages. (total time appr.6-8h )