LincolnB - Jul 15, 2020 8:59 am Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2020
With Black
Camped overnight at 11,000'
soslaw - May 13, 2016 12:33 am Date Climbed: May 12, 2016
North East Couloir
A lot of unconsolidated seemingly bottomless snow in the upper reaches made this ascent more difficult.
mengbo - May 26, 2014 1:21 pm Date Climbed: May 25, 2014
SW Slopes
An official SPS trip. Camped at 9900 ft in some established area, another possible camp area is at 10500 ft.
The mountain has lots of loose rocks while it is not snow-covered.
PS: Matt lost one of his hiking poles on the mountain (just below the summit plateau), please contact me if someone finds it in the future.
rhyang - Jun 12, 2011 10:48 am Date Climbed: Jun 11, 2011
NE Couloir
Camped ~9700' on a dry spot above Summit Meadow. Next morning headed up the couloir on the north side of the peak. Unlike the broad and sunny east couloir, the NE couloir was in the shade, and narrowed down just before the exit. Pops you out a couple hundred feet just below the summit.
Beautiful late spring day, big snow year, warm weather.
--
Route climbed: East chute
Date climbed: 29-May-2006
Started from camp around 9900' at 5:45am, headed up the broadest couloir on the east side around 7:15. From the exit at the summit plateau, the summit is about a half mile away - arrived by 9:20.
Note that this chute can easily be confused with the NE couloir, because it's on the northeast side. But the 'true' NE couloir seems to be on the north side, just below the summit ridge. According to Secor it is the left branch. Bob Burd and company seem to have done the NE couloir, while it seems like most everyone else (myself included) apparently went up this east chute.
Anyway, beautiful clear day, almost no wind. Downclimbed / glissaded SE slope and returned to camp by noon.
--
Route climbed: SE class 2-3 scramble
Date climbed: 23-May-2004
Went with a group from climber.org. Started from Summit Meadows. Scrambled class 2-3 route on SE side, traversed to summit plateau, then class 2 to the peak. Glissaded one of the chutes on the southeast slope.
wmolland - May 2, 2011 3:47 am Date Climbed: Apr 30, 2011
SW Slopes
Made it to the summit via the icy SW snow slope. This would be an amazing ski in non-icy conditions, unfortunately it was not this way on this cold April day.
jgroenke - May 28, 2009 4:04 pm Date Climbed: Mar 24, 2009
SW Slopes
Hiked up the Baxter Pass trailhead on Saturday and camped at 10,000 feet near the mouth of the valley between Black and Diamond. A fire burned through the canyon in 07 and a flash flood in 08 combined with light usage and no maintenance the trail is in bad shape. It is very easy to lose the trail. Started from camp Sunday morning and climbed the SW slope alternating between rock and the snow field. Summitted at noon had a nice lunch then went back down.
bechtt - Jun 3, 2007 2:23 pm Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2007
East Coulior
Decided to try a Bob Burd. Left L.A. at 2AM, on the trail by 6AM, summited by 12. Views were awesome. Then decided to save time by traversing the ridge to Black Mtn (doesn't save time!). Out by 8:30PM, home by 1AM, asleep by 2AM. Pictures
forjan - Apr 2, 2007 1:21 am Date Climbed: Mar 31, 2007
NE Couloir
Climbed with MikeSash. Started at 4:25am from Baxter Pass T/H. Geared up at the base of the NE couloir around 10am (were dragging a** from post-holing). The lower part was deep snow (was sinking to my knees as I was breaking trail), then it got better higher up. Encountered some rock fall, which made us climb faster. Topped out in about 1 hour and a half (exit of the NE couloir is at 12,900'). Summited by 12:05pm. Rested up there for 40min. Back to the T/H by 4:24pm (12 hrs car-to-car).
Cheese burger, fries and a coke at the Mt. Whitney Restaurant in Lone Pine afterwards.
----------
Route Climbed: SE Slope
Date Climbed: May 5, 2002
I slept Friday night May 3rd at the Baxter Pass trailhead parking area. Started hiking at 8:30am Satudary morning. At 12:30pm, I set up camp at 10,000 ft near the Summit Meadow area and spent the rest of the afternoon climbing the north couloir of Mount Mary Austin (13,048 ft). It got icy in the upper chute and was getting late, so I only reached an altitude of 12,000 ft. While climbing the chute, snow flurries began falling for a brief period of time. Got back to my camp, prepared dinner and went to bed by 8:00pm. Woke up Sunday morning (May 5th) and started hiking at 7:30am. Entered the bowl and took the first right-hand side, very wide snow chute on the SE face. Encountered two other climbers from Russia/Ukraine who were descending the SE slope. Eventually I reached the top of Diamond Peak at 11:02am. Great view to the west, especially of Mt. Clarence King. Stayed for 30 minutes at the summit celebrating "Cinco de Mayo." Was back to camp at 1:30pm, broke camp and hiked out by 2:00pm. I reached my car at the Baxter Pass trailhead a few minutes after 4:00pm.
Route Climbed: Northeast Couloir Date Climbed: March 12, 2005
First peak of what would be a tiring day. The route up from summit meadow went quicker than expected and the actual couloir was in great shape. From the top it seemed like a 20 minute hike to the summit but postholing to my calfs made it take much, much longer.
Great spring snow climb. Killer (nice) couloir, mainly french technique with a bit of front pointing here and there. Not really snow for kicking into, but not really "full ice" conditions. Excellent view from summit - I hear Mt. Clarence King calling my name.
Route Climbed: Northeast Couloir Date Climbed: 20 June 2004
After a forced bivy in Summit Meadow due to hail and rain the today before, we had a longer hump to Diamond with plenty of sunshine. The couloir conditions were very pleasant, remnants of the previous day's hail and large rock/snow fall from neighboring couloir.
Nasty thing was reaching the top of couloir and realizing the true summit was another half mile over tallus away! The view from summit was tremendous and worth the trip. Only 4 entries this year, not a popular place huh?
Route Climbed: northeast colour Date Climbed: April 1997
This is one of the best "Weekend Peaks" I know of.
Hike in on Sat. Kick back at the obivious camping spot
early sat pm. Get up early on Sunday am, and go for it!
Real nice 30-40 degree snow/ice gulley than a nice 2/3rd class rock climb up a ridge to the top! Great views of the world from the top. I recomend doing this one as early as possable so you are walking on snow/ice and not scree. Enjoy.
Route Climbed: East Colour (Snow Clasic) Date Climbed: May 2002
Climbed the class 3 snow colour up to the bowl and headed up to the summit. Beatiful weather and excellent snow conditions. This route is a real treasure of a non-technical snow travel in Sierra.
LincolnB - Jul 15, 2020 8:59 am Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2020
With BlackCamped overnight at 11,000'
soslaw - May 13, 2016 12:33 am Date Climbed: May 12, 2016
North East CouloirA lot of unconsolidated seemingly bottomless snow in the upper reaches made this ascent more difficult.
mengbo - May 26, 2014 1:21 pm Date Climbed: May 25, 2014
SW SlopesAn official SPS trip. Camped at 9900 ft in some established area, another possible camp area is at 10500 ft.
The mountain has lots of loose rocks while it is not snow-covered.
PS: Matt lost one of his hiking poles on the mountain (just below the summit plateau), please contact me if someone finds it in the future.
rhyang - Jun 12, 2011 10:48 am Date Climbed: Jun 11, 2011
NE CouloirCamped ~9700' on a dry spot above Summit Meadow. Next morning headed up the couloir on the north side of the peak. Unlike the broad and sunny east couloir, the NE couloir was in the shade, and narrowed down just before the exit. Pops you out a couple hundred feet just below the summit.
Beautiful late spring day, big snow year, warm weather.
--
Route climbed: East chute
Date climbed: 29-May-2006
Started from camp around 9900' at 5:45am, headed up the broadest couloir on the east side around 7:15. From the exit at the summit plateau, the summit is about a half mile away - arrived by 9:20.
Note that this chute can easily be confused with the NE couloir, because it's on the northeast side. But the 'true' NE couloir seems to be on the north side, just below the summit ridge. According to Secor it is the left branch. Bob Burd and company seem to have done the NE couloir, while it seems like most everyone else (myself included) apparently went up this east chute.
Anyway, beautiful clear day, almost no wind. Downclimbed / glissaded SE slope and returned to camp by noon.
--
Route climbed: SE class 2-3 scramble
Date climbed: 23-May-2004
Went with a group from climber.org. Started from Summit Meadows. Scrambled class 2-3 route on SE side, traversed to summit plateau, then class 2 to the peak. Glissaded one of the chutes on the southeast slope.
wmolland - May 2, 2011 3:47 am Date Climbed: Apr 30, 2011
SW SlopesMade it to the summit via the icy SW snow slope. This would be an amazing ski in non-icy conditions, unfortunately it was not this way on this cold April day.
jgroenke - May 28, 2009 4:04 pm Date Climbed: Mar 24, 2009
SW SlopesHiked up the Baxter Pass trailhead on Saturday and camped at 10,000 feet near the mouth of the valley between Black and Diamond. A fire burned through the canyon in 07 and a flash flood in 08 combined with light usage and no maintenance the trail is in bad shape. It is very easy to lose the trail. Started from camp Sunday morning and climbed the SW slope alternating between rock and the snow field. Summitted at noon had a nice lunch then went back down.
bechtt - Jun 3, 2007 2:23 pm Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2007
East CouliorDecided to try a Bob Burd. Left L.A. at 2AM, on the trail by 6AM, summited by 12. Views were awesome. Then decided to save time by traversing the ridge to Black Mtn (doesn't save time!). Out by 8:30PM, home by 1AM, asleep by 2AM. Pictures
forjan - Apr 2, 2007 1:21 am Date Climbed: Mar 31, 2007
NE CouloirClimbed with MikeSash. Started at 4:25am from Baxter Pass T/H. Geared up at the base of the NE couloir around 10am (were dragging a** from post-holing). The lower part was deep snow (was sinking to my knees as I was breaking trail), then it got better higher up. Encountered some rock fall, which made us climb faster. Topped out in about 1 hour and a half (exit of the NE couloir is at 12,900'). Summited by 12:05pm. Rested up there for 40min. Back to the T/H by 4:24pm (12 hrs car-to-car).
Cheese burger, fries and a coke at the Mt. Whitney Restaurant in Lone Pine afterwards.
----------
Route Climbed: SE Slope
Date Climbed: May 5, 2002
I slept Friday night May 3rd at the Baxter Pass trailhead parking area. Started hiking at 8:30am Satudary morning. At 12:30pm, I set up camp at 10,000 ft near the Summit Meadow area and spent the rest of the afternoon climbing the north couloir of Mount Mary Austin (13,048 ft). It got icy in the upper chute and was getting late, so I only reached an altitude of 12,000 ft. While climbing the chute, snow flurries began falling for a brief period of time. Got back to my camp, prepared dinner and went to bed by 8:00pm. Woke up Sunday morning (May 5th) and started hiking at 7:30am. Entered the bowl and took the first right-hand side, very wide snow chute on the SE face. Encountered two other climbers from Russia/Ukraine who were descending the SE slope. Eventually I reached the top of Diamond Peak at 11:02am. Great view to the west, especially of Mt. Clarence King. Stayed for 30 minutes at the summit celebrating "Cinco de Mayo." Was back to camp at 1:30pm, broke camp and hiked out by 2:00pm. I reached my car at the Baxter Pass trailhead a few minutes after 4:00pm.
Bob Burd - May 31, 2005 11:52 pm
Route Climbed: NE Couloir (ascent) / SE Slopes (descent) Date Climbed: May 15, 2005A fine 10hr outing with Matthew and Michael and excellent weather. Trip Report
Completebum - Mar 14, 2005 1:39 pm
Route Climbed: Northeast Couloir Date Climbed: March 12, 2005First peak of what would be a tiring day. The route up from summit meadow went quicker than expected and the actual couloir was in great shape. From the top it seemed like a 20 minute hike to the summit but postholing to my calfs made it take much, much longer.
RSN473 - Mar 1, 2005 4:41 pm
Route Climbed: SE Slope Date Climbed: May 12, 2002outstanding snow climb on a fine spring day!
ChuckO - Oct 13, 2004 7:51 pm
Route Climbed: NE Couloir Date Climbed: apr 2004Great spring snow climb. Killer (nice) couloir, mainly french technique with a bit of front pointing here and there. Not really snow for kicking into, but not really "full ice" conditions. Excellent view from summit - I hear Mt. Clarence King calling my name.
Dave Daly - Jun 22, 2004 11:25 am
Route Climbed: NE Couloir Date Climbed: 20 June 2004Highlights: climbing the NE Couloir with Deb
Crap: discovering the "true" summit is a pile of crap. Screw the highpoint concept!
Saw that 'rinat' signed the register in 2002. And two entries from Secor.
Deb - Jun 22, 2004 12:48 am
Route Climbed: Northeast Couloir Date Climbed: 20 June 2004After a forced bivy in Summit Meadow due to hail and rain the today before, we had a longer hump to Diamond with plenty of sunshine. The couloir conditions were very pleasant, remnants of the previous day's hail and large rock/snow fall from neighboring couloir.
Nasty thing was reaching the top of couloir and realizing the true summit was another half mile over tallus away! The view from summit was tremendous and worth the trip. Only 4 entries this year, not a popular place huh?
Guyzo - Mar 23, 2004 11:22 pm
Route Climbed: northeast colour Date Climbed: April 1997This is one of the best "Weekend Peaks" I know of.
Hike in on Sat. Kick back at the obivious camping spot
early sat pm. Get up early on Sunday am, and go for it!
Real nice 30-40 degree snow/ice gulley than a nice 2/3rd class rock climb up a ridge to the top! Great views of the world from the top. I recomend doing this one as early as possable so you are walking on snow/ice and not scree. Enjoy.
Rinat Shagisultanov - Aug 8, 2003 4:01 am
Route Climbed: East Colour (Snow Clasic) Date Climbed: May 2002Climbed the class 3 snow colour up to the bowl and headed up to the summit. Beatiful weather and excellent snow conditions. This route is a real treasure of a non-technical snow travel in Sierra.